RV Garage/Man-Cave Do it once and right!

[revamped]

I am new to the forum and asking for help from the pro's!
I want to build a RV Garage/man-cave with the following attributes in an L shape:
Based on space constraints of 25ft wide at RV Front Door but can extend up to 50 feet back and at half the distance deep can turn right and wrap behind my house for the man-cave/work shop/hot-rod parking.

The rear section of the shop will be a dirty work area/weld shop/need for hotwork and ventilation

This will also allow the man-cave section to be built with some home styling to look good from the back of my house and look like a guest home from the outside. Goal is to walk off my deck from my house and right into a nice man-cave with bar, etc.

From the left rear outer wall, I will put in a 10X12 door so you can drive down the side of the RV garage and enter from the rear left, drive straight through the rear RV section and into the man-cave/hotrod shop/2post lift. Means even the man-cave section should have high ceilings.

I want it stick built with 8/12 pitch and high ceilings to match my home, and either polished black concrete floors, or polished rust concrete floors.

Anyone see any plans, or know of any garages like this?
What are the pitfalls of building something like this detached vs. just building it all onto my existing home?

I realize this is a lot to ponder... I have a builder scratching his head and making sure my ideas all fall into the County's requirements. I have searched plans an not finding anything that quite captures what I am trying to do.

Thanks for any support/ideas you can lend. I will probably be house poor after this...

 

[Jagmandave]

Detached vs attached - in my county it makes a big difference on how large the shop can be- detached is very limited - attached is virtually unlimited as long as the house meets the general setback rules. There also might be a difference in taxes, you should check that too.....

Other than that, I don't see a problem either way.

Detached means a little more separation of the noise and smells....

 

[38Chevy454]

I would recommend to have 12 ft high doors, an RV can get tall fast. So that means greater than 12 ft wall height inside. Which is also good for a lift, enough room to get a vehicle up high enough for working or park another vehicle underneath.

The drive alongside the RV can work, but may be a bit awkward. Given your requirements, it is going to be a custom architect drawing and design. Architect should also understand the county rules and be help there. 8/12 pitch you can use attic storage trusses and get some additional storage space for relatively low additional cost. However with 12+ ft high walls and the tall pitch, you may have some overall height issues to deal with wrt the county.

 

[Autorotica]

The AC unit on my gas RV stands 12' 2" tall. Go 14' tall in the door.

Chris

 

[Sims5]

Go with no less than a 14' high door. Your RV might not be that tall yet but when you want the bigger class A you will be glad you went 14' high. Max legal height going down the road is 13' 6" so all rv's will fit with a 14' door. Would help with resale value of property later. I went 14'Hx16'W and have no regrets!