RV leveling blocks

[jjrbus]

Found some leveling ramps for the Roadtrek van conversion, on a 2002 Chevy 3500 cab&chassis. I ordered the levelers and they are 6 inch wide, my tire foot print is 8" wide. No way no how would I use a 6" block under a 8" tire and they do not offer a wider leveler.

I am going to try to make these longer to gain 6" of lift instead of 4". I made a template yesterday out of mdf, I will ruff cut the wood out of untreated syp and use the template with a pattern bit to finish the blank to size.

Instead of using screws I will drill straight through the leveler and use all thread and glue.

Is glue necessary Titebond 3, if I do glue should I run the 2X8 through my surface planer. I do not want to use treated lumber because I have no idea what the chemicals in the wood will do to the tires. My RV tires last for years so it is a long term effect. Would tends to be slippery when wet, any suggestions on surface treatment for adhesion.

Any input, suggestions, ideas, thoughts or wisecracks greatly appreciated.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQbACPappto&t=1010s

 

[AldeanFan]

Cool project,
Will you counter sink the nuts on the all-thread?
I think I’d want the sides flat for easier storage.

I would paint them with floor paint with some of that antislip additive. I used that on the floor of my car trailer and it’s excellent, very durable and tires don’t slip and slide.

 

[Jgaz]

I’ve made several types of RV blocks for people. I’ve never made the ramps you are planning.
The blocks I’ve made are usually made from leftover lumber and plywood.

Yes, I would, and always do, use glue or construction adhesive.
On thicker blocks, I usually alternate 3/4” plywood with 2X lumber to get desired thickness.
In your case the threaded rod is a good idea IMO. Counterbore for the nuts as suggested above.
Yes, I plane the 2X lumber, just because.
For your ramps the anti skid paint sounds like a good idea. I just use a good grade of exterior, or floor paint. Again, I use what’s on hand or someone is getting rid of.

Here’s one of two blocks that will be used with three legged screw jacks to stabilize a toy hauler porch.

This one just happens to be all plywood. I’m letting the final user paint as they desire.

 

[Sweetcorn]

...snip... Would tends to be slippery when wet, any suggestions on surface treatment for adhesion. ...snip...

Skateboard tape.

 

[dcg9381]

[Wood] tends to be slippery when wet, any suggestions on surface treatment for adhesion.

I coat all my wood in polyester resin or epoxy. You can mix anti-skid agents in it. Or if you're cheap, just mix in a little sand.

 

[Old tool guy]

Why not order a second set of ramps and fasten them together, gives you 12” ramp for 8” tires.

 

[jjrbus]

Thanks for the responses, greatly appreciated. I will countersink the all thread, good idea.

Your 5th wheel blocks look as good as my cabinetry work!

Resin coating, Hmmmm. Skateboard tape, hmmmm

Buying another set of ramps and fastening them together is $$$$ and I still only have a 4" lift and I suspect the 4" is a bit exaggerated!

On my existing leveling blocks I used junk paint and a course sand, it has lasted several years, I still have junk paint and the sand, so will likely use that.

I was thinking of coating the bottom of the blocks with oil, bottoms only not the whole block. Sound ok?

Would I be better with Tite bond 3 or a construction adhesive? I have both.

 

[Jgaz]

Would I be better with Tite bond 3 or a construction adhesive? I have both.

IMO either one.
I live in Phoenix so once most tube adhesives are open they start to dry up. I just use which ever one I want to get rid of before it goes bad.

Your 5th wheel blocks look as good as my cabinetry work!

Lol. Thanks!
They were made from offcuts from my shop cabinet project.

 

[AldeanFan]

I’ve made several types of RV blocks for people. I’ve never made the ramps you are planning.
The blocks I’ve made are usually made from leftover lumber and plywood.

Yes, I would, and always do, use glue or construction adhesive.
On thicker blocks, I usually alternate 3/4” plywood with 2X lumber to get desired thickness.
In your case the threaded rod is a good idea IMO. Counterbore for the nuts as suggested above.
Yes, I plane the 2X lumber, just because.
For your ramps the anti skid paint sounds like a good idea. I just use a good grade of exterior, or floor paint. Again, I use what’s on hand or someone is getting rid of.

Here’s one of two blocks that will be used with three legged screw jacks to stabilize a toy hauler porch.

This one just happens to be all plywood. I’m letting the final user paint as they desire.

This block is nicer than my kitchen cabinets lol

 

[jjrbus]

IMO either one.
I live in Phoenix so once most tube adhesives are open they start to dry up. I just use which ever one I want to get rid of before it goes bad.


I just bought little tube sealers, they are made of silicone and are reusable, do not know how they will work yet but fit the tube very well. They look like tiny condoms.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09192D8PZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[jjrbus]

I made my template, picked up some 2X8 and traced out the blanks. I do not think I want to cut all of these, 12 so far with my jig saw. Need to pick up a band saw or head over to my bud's house and use his monster antique band saw.

 

[Jgaz]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09192D8PZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Those are longer than anything I’ve used. I’ll have to check them out.
Thanks!

 

[Monza Harry]

For your non slip surface, what are your thoughts on some bedliner? My brothers truck had some tough and really rough finish. Came with truck so finding out would be tough! Harry

 

[jjrbus]

Bed liner is a thought, seems some people use the coarse tread product for steps.

 

[jjrbus]

Greetings still involved in my leveling ramp project. Picked up a cheap band saw and has major problems so back to the jig saw. These are 21 inch long and about 6 1/2" at the tallest end. I was going to glue and bolt these together with 5/8 all thread but curious would you
use 5/8 dowel instead? Will be 6, 1 1/2 in thick so total of 9 inch wide.

 

[Jgaz]

Greetings still involved in my leveling ramp project. Picked up a cheap band saw and has major problems so back to the jig saw. These are 21 inch long and about 6 1/2" at the tallest end. I was going to glue and bolt these together with 5/8 all thread but curious would you
use 5/8 dowel instead? Will be 6, 1 1/2 in thick so total of 9 inch wide.

IMO dowels would be a lot of work compared to threaded rod.
Heck, if you wanted you could use deck screws every couple layers.
If it were me I’d use the threaded rod and counterbore the nuts on the two outer boards

 

[jjrbus]

Thanks for the input. The 2X8 were cupped so I ran them through the surface planer and then glued with Titebond 3. Then used countersunk bolts, drilling the holes took some doing.

I used the bolt instead of screw because something about screws and tires gave me a real bad feeling!

In hindsight I might have made one of the boards longer and formed a handle out of it or put a 1X in the middle, now looking for a handle idea that will not damage a tire if I slip off the ramps.

 

[shedfullatools]

Piece of a leather belt with some screws and cup washers, fire hose or a section of an old sling or ratchet strap with ends melted and holes melted through for screws.

 

[Jgaz]

Check post #3 above for a handle idea that I’ve used several times.

 

[PCustoms]

That's going to **** when they split along the grain. There's a reason why other people have used plywood.

Not sure why you couldn't use 6" blocks under 8" tires. Hell, half the time I find a flat(ish) rock when I boondock. Easier to kick back in the woods rather then clean a block to pack in truck.

 

[jjrbus]

That's going to **** when they split along the grain. There's a reason why other people have used plywood.

Not sure why you couldn't use 6" blocks under 8" tires. Hell, half the time I find a flat(ish) rock when I boondock. Easier to kick back in the woods rather then clean a block to pack in truck.

Been exposed to a bit of tire failure research, so a 6 inch block under a 8" tire is not something I would do.

Suppose you would not like my foam ramps either.