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RV plug?

Alchymist

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Mar 1, 2009
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Central PA
All my sump pump outlets I have converted to GFCI with no issues, and I have family with garage freezers on GFCIs as well with no issues. If my sump pump starts leaking current and tripping the GFCI, it's thrown out.
The causes of leakage current

Insulation has both electrical resistance and capacitance – and it conducts current through both paths. Given the high resistance of insulation, very little current should actually leak. But -- if the insulation is old or damaged, the resistance is lower and substantial current may flow. Additionally, longer conductors have a higher capacitance, causing more leakage current. That's why GFCI breaker manufacturers recommend one-way feeder length be limited to 250 feet, maximum.

Electronic equipment, meanwhile, contains filters designed to protect against voltage surges and other disruptions. These filters typically have capacitors on the input, which adds to the overall capacitance of the wiring system and the overall level of leakage current.

Many refrigerators and freezers, air conditioners, dehumidifiers, etc, especially older ones, have the compressor motor coils actually running in the oil and refrigerant.(The motor is submerged in the oil). This oil, especially when a small amount of moisture is present, will cause leakage from the motor windings to the compressor shell. At times this leakage can increase to the point where it will trip a GFCI, hence my recommendation not to install on a GFCI.
 
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mrb

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Dec 31, 2008
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3,734
yep. and the more stuff you add to the circuit post GFCI the more leakage you add and youre closer to the trip threshold before you even plug anything in. Thats why I never understand why people are always recommending GFCI breakers. Makes no sense to me. Best to keep the GFCI as close to the load as possible, and reduce the amount of wire on the load side as much as possible.
 

harley rider

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Jul 21, 2011
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27
Location
kansas
from Fluke:

In any electrical installation, some current will flow through the protective ground conductor to ground. This is usually called leakage current. Leakage current most commonly flows in the insulation surrounding conductors and in the filters protecting electronic equipment around the home or office. So what's the problem? On circuits protected by GFCIs (Ground Fault Current Interrupters), leakage current can cause unnecessary and intermittent tripping. In extreme cases, it can cause a rise in voltage on accessible conductive parts.

The causes of leakage current

Insulation has both electrical resistance and capacitance – and it conducts current through both paths. Given the high resistance of insulation, very little current should actually leak. But -- if the insulation is old or damaged, the resistance is lower and substantial current may flow. Additionally, longer conductors have a higher capacitance, causing more leakage current. That's why GFCI breaker manufacturers recommend one-way feeder length be limited to 250 feet, maximum.

Electronic equipment, meanwhile, contains filters designed to protect against voltage surges and other disruptions. These filters typically have capacitors on the input, which adds to the overall capacitance of the wiring system and the overall level of leakage current.

the one that I have is on its own circuit with about 50' run. have had no problems.
 

Norcal

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Mar 16, 2008
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13,753
I think you guys are missing the point that this outlet is out doors and therefor is a wet location. why would you not want a gfci .

If you want to go above the code I have no problems with that, but it is a option not a requirement.
 
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ForceFed70

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Apr 27, 2010
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BC, Canada
I plan to pull a 10/3 wire to the plug so that I can upgrade to a 50A plug later. I'll only be able to put in a 30A breaker, but it should be enough.

We don't even own an RV at the moment, and if we buy one it will be smaller so I don't think capacity will be a big issue.
 
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ishiboo

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Oshkosh, WI
I plan to pull a 10/3 wire to the plug so that I can upgrade to a 50A plug later. I'll only be able to put in a 30A breaker, but it should be enough.

We don't even own an RV at the moment, and if we buy one it will be smaller so I don't think capacity will be a big issue.

10-3 would not be acceptable for 50A on a RV plug/etc., really the only reason to put a 50 on it would be to run a welder or something else that has an exception.

I would run 10-3, it will service a future boat or RV, 50A is a big welder unless you have one already, you'll be starting with something that will easily run off a 240v 20A or 30A circuit, if not a *gulp* 120 welder.

Bigger boat or bigger RV and you can install a second 10-3 for it, at least that's how newer boats are setup instead of having a single 50A circuit.
 

nate379

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Palmer, AK
50 amp is a decent sized welder, but it's a fairly small plasma cutter.

When I ran my wiring for my shed I did a 10-3 wire and after I bought all the stuff I thought it would be nice to put an RV plug on the garage wall where it goes in.

Well started thinking about it, #1 I don't even have an RV, #2, I had no idea what the RV would use cause like you guys talk about, could be 2 or 3 different type plugs and either 120v or 240v. AND then since it was just a 30 amp run to my shed, would have had to bump that up.

In the end decided I'll just wiring in an outlet in the garage or plug off my welder outlets if need be... I already use those to backfeed the panel with the genset.... and yes I know you guys are going to freak out on that, I don't care.
 

Aceman

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Jan 28, 2007
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Eastern Oregon
In the end decided I'll just wiring in an outlet in the garage or plug off my welder outlets if need be... I already use those to backfeed the panel with the genset.... and yes I know you guys are going to freak out on that, I don't care.

Using a welder recep for an RV wouldn't work, since there isn't a neutral...

They make power inlets so you don't have to use a suicide cord:

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/power/reliance-controls-power-inlet-boxes.html

Install an interlock kit in your panel, run some 10-3/8-3, etc to the power inlet and you're done.

http://www.interlockkit.com/
 

Alchymist

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Mar 1, 2009
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Location
Central PA
One thing I have noticed with the backfeeding horses is that you can lead them to water but you can't make them drink! :bounce::headscrat:bounce:
 

nate379

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Palmer, AK
No reason to spend money on all that stuff.

Nothing wrong in my eyes to turn off the main breaker at the meter, which isolates my house from the grid, and then power what I want.
I know people will argue, what if you forget.... well... I don't forget to wipe my *** after I ****,... so I need a failsafe for that too?


Or I could just buy 20 extension cords and 2 power strips and plug everything in... that is what my Dad does... :lol_hitti:lol_hitti
 
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