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RV sub panel allowed as garage sub?

ching0n

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I've got a bud that wants to install an EV charger in his garage (attached bottom floor) but his main panel's fairly crowded. Would something like this be allowed as a sub? I think the idea would be dryer plus charger if he went w/the dual setup.


 
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pattenp

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Problem is there's no proper outlet for a dryer. The 30A is a RV outlet. Cheaper to add a regular panel and install outlet for EV and outlet for dryer.
 
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ching0n

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Problem is there's no proper outlet for a dryer. The 30A is a RV outlet. Cheaper to add a regular panel and install outlet for EV and outlet for dryer.
good point. He's already got the dryer upstairs and thought he'd gain some space if he went w/the double but it wasn't a deal breaker. Anything wrong w/using the single in that case? He's getting some quotes but options they're selling him sound unfamiliar to me.

Meter/mains enters through garage to a sub fuse fox that feeds the main panel upstairs. Can they parallel another sub at the fuse sub box? He's saying they wouldn't touch the upstairs panel which is why I ask. If you can parallel boxes at the mains, would something like this single RV box be allowed?
 

dcg9381

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Problem is there's no proper outlet for a dryer. The 30A is a RV outlet. Cheaper to add a regular panel and install outlet for EV and outlet for dryer.
Yes. the 30A is 120v.
I don't agree that it's cheaper to do a "regular panel" and add EV + dryer outlet.
It depends if you are going to swap between RV and dryer plugs or not.

The Siemens Talon (TL137US) is a little cheaper (delivered Amazon), has more breakers and more open breaker slots (4).

EV:
If you hard wire, you can get 48A continuous.
Via plug, you can get 40A continuous.

In my experience, it doesn't make much difference and I prefer being about to unplug the EVSE and take it with me.
 
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pattenp

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I'm taking it as the 30A 120V RV outlet is not needed. You can get a 6 space main lug panel, 30A and 50A DP breaker, a 14-30R and a 14-50R and boxes and cover plates for less than $200.
 
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ching0n

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I'm taking it as the 30A 120V RV outlet is not needed. You can get a 6 space main lug panel, 30A and 50A DP breaker, a 14-30R and a 14-50R and boxes and cover plates for less than $200.
It's mostly the labor part that I'm thinking he could save on (not doing it himself). Typically he'd have to run a feeder from the main panel to a sub box, to an outlet plug (if not hardwired).

Eaton also sells these type w/built in breakers:

1710905420365.png
1710905466644.png

Yes. the 30A is 120v.
I don't agree that it's cheaper to do a "regular panel" and add EV + dryer outlet.
It depends if you are going to swap between RV and dryer plugs or not.

The Siemens Talon (TL137US) is a little cheaper (delivered Amazon), has more breakers and more open breaker slots (4).

EV:
If you hard wire, you can get 48A continuous.
Via plug, you can get 40A continuous.

In my experience, it doesn't make much difference and I prefer being about to unplug the EVSE and take it with me.
Thanks for the link. So is this NEC compliant for indoors/garage? I honestly don't see anything wrong w/it personally but I'm no electrician. Now I'm just wondering how the guys he called were planning to feed the sub w/o touching the main panel?
 

dcg9381

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Thanks for the link. So is this NEC compliant for indoors/garage? I honestly don't see anything wrong w/it personally but I'm no electrician. Now I'm just wondering how the guys he called were planning to feed the sub w/o touching the main panel?
The Siemens Talon is outdoor rated, so you can use it in the garage yes.

I'm not familiar with the products above, it looks like the EVSE (EV charger) is in the breaker box in the 2nd picture?

It's unclear to me if he needs to plug in a dryer, EV, or BOTH at the same time.
 
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