I was strictly speaking to how well they cut not quality of build.
I was trying to say that the cordless saw cuts more like a corded electric.
I wouldn't compare the electric cordless OR corded saw to ANY gas saw homeowner or not.
That is all. I have the Oregon cordless so I know how cool the cordless saws are.
Crazy how cheap those replacement bar/chain combos are....
You reviews are Pro quality and production. keep up the good work.
Thanks Dust Devil!
Dust Devil, does the built-in chain sharpening thingie work at all on the Oregon? Seemed gimmicky to me?
The thing that caught me about the Ryobi is brushless. Unfortunately w a 2nd battery a $200 investment becomes $300. And they should really figure a way to do a 40V charger for a cigarette lighter plug, but I bet they never will because they're targeting homeowners, not guys working in the field. But when out on my 35 acres I could charge off my Kubota.
Woodstock, what kind of wood were you cutting in the video, and is it considered hard or soft?
Lol.....I dont think they have the guy with 35 acres in mind when they made this

Probably more-so the guy with a 1/2 acre. The tree in the video would definitely be considered "soft wood", and was not oak, hickory, or anything like that. I have trimmed oak branches with the Ryobi & did not notice a difference in performance....but then again I did not cut down a whole tree either.
Thanks for the review. That saw would have been perfect the last couple of weeks, with an extra battery or two, instead of my Stihl 025. Much quieter, and no gasoline fumes.
Thanks North! Yeah the lack of fumes is my #1 favorite thing about cordless outdoor power tools.
Actually I think you are a bit misinformed. The chain break is a safety device used to stop the chain in the case of a kick back. A properly set up gas saw will NOT spin the chain at idle. If it does, the idle is too high or the clutch is bad
Apparently I am. I have never heard that before, and it was always explained to me that you put the brake on when not cutting for safety. I did not realize it was built in to prevent injury with kickback. Thanks!
What's also disappointing to me about my opinion of the chainsaw having poor balance is that while I was in that aisle I got to looking at the cordless line trimmers. I've always thought a cordless line trimmer sounded good but never figured anything on the market was worthy of anything more than very occasional trimming of 20' of white picket fence in suburbia. And they all seem to have auto feed heads these days which I hate. Like really, really hate.
So I saw the Ryobi RY40220 which uses the same 40V battery platform, looks built more like a gas trimmer, good balance, nice long steel shaft, DUAL .080 lines AND a bump-feed head. Hooray! A cordless line trimmer that still comes with a bump feed! At $180 for the kit it's spendy but I'd sooner do this and get another tool I can use than pay just $99 for an extra battery.
Alas, I'm not sold on the chainsaw and I hate to have a battery platform for only ONE tool so I'm holding off on all of it.
Yeah you definitely save a lot of cash anytime you buy kits....the same way with cordless power tools. And I see your point about the batteries/chargers....they are a huge expense & it is definitely best to go with a lineup that you would want to expand into other tools eventually.
I was just reading up in a Stihl manual on how the brake is supposed to theoretically help in the event of kickback (I've never experienced this). But I think it was largely something to satisfy the feds. The best (ie most amusing) snippet from the manual:
"The computer derived angles of 5.11 of ANSI B 175.1-2000 may bear no relationship to actual kickback bar rotation angles that may occur in real life cutting situations."
Hah!
More on topic, Woodstock I could find no way to get the battery to drop in in any other position than the proper one to power the tool. In the video you're able to reverse the battery to a "storage" or "transport" position? I tried all possible rotations and configurations but the battery is molded and shaped such that it will only go in one way.
I assume you are not using the battery (in-store) that comes with this unit. In the kit, they have the compact battery. I am guessing when you tried it in-store you may have been using the full-size instead. I simply rotated it 180 degrees & it went right in place loosely.
The chain expands as you use it thus getting looser. As I said before a properly set up saw will not spin the chain at idle at any time. I fix them for a living.
Yes a kick back happens fast and is nasty. But when it happens your hand hits the chain brake handle/bar and stops the chain instantly possibly stopping further damage to yourself if your hand is stuck on the throttle.
And yes I agree, put the brake on if you are walking around with a running saw.
Thanks again for pointing this out!
