SAE vs. Metric flare nut wrenchs
- Thread starter Uncle Ben
- Start date
crewchief888
Well-known member
seems the older the vehicle is the more likely it's std.
vssjim
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Standard stuff is only for older cars and the tool guys will tell you that metrics outsell std's 100 to one now a days
6768rogues
Banned
I am a car hobbyist and use both. It depends on what the car is. Sometimes a metric or standard can be used on the other type to get a better fit on a rusted fitting.
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
Well, do you have an SAE or metric car? There's your answer.
Coolabah
Well-known member
.. not always so simple !! I used to own a Datsun "Fairlady" 1968 - precursor to the "Z" cars... body bolts were standard... all engine parts metric ( or vice - versa... I forget... long time ago now....)
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
I meant in reference to the tubing in which he needs the wrenches for. Asking what is used more is entirely dependent on what you're working on.
mrholeshot
MEMBER EMERITUS
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2010
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6 of 1 half a dozen of the other
mrshaun
Well-known member
my 90 chevrolet fuel filter uses sae and metric.
I sell just as many metric as i do sae now. it used to be only SAE around here.
Nissan shop is my main purcahsed of Metric.
I sell just as many metric as i do sae now. it used to be only SAE around here.
Nissan shop is my main purcahsed of Metric.
TAMPAGT07
Well-known member
Just buy them both, they are a vital addition to the tool population..
There's the answer I was looking for!
Kidding (sort of), but thanks everyone for the input. I can always use an excuse to buy a new tool
TAMPAGT07
Well-known member
There's the answer I was looking for!
Kidding (sort of), but thanks everyone for the input. I can always use an excuse to buy a new tool
I found Snap-on to be the best and at the time (20 years ago.) I got them for 50% off while at Aviation Tech School. Kinda of a no brainer. I would shop around if I had to buy them at full price.Major Ramifications
Well-known member
At work, we carry both metric and SAE flare nut wrenches. I actually had a customer laugh and joke about the metric ones, claiming that no tubing fittings in the world were metric. I guess you guys showed him.
chevy302dz
Well-known member
You really need both. On forigen cars if a brake line has ever been repaired odds are SAE fittings were used to join the lines and domestics still use a lot of SAE fittings even if most of the rest of the car is metric.
psychoclaw84
Well-known member
"What do you car guys tend to use more for brake, power steering, and transmission cooling lines...SAE or Metric? Do certain manufacturers always use one or the other for the line nuts?"
Recently, My 1991 Honda Accord needed the high pressure power steering hose replaced. The original worn out hose was OEM (all the fittings and brackets fit the OEM perfectly), the replacement is an ORILEY's hose.
First: I own Toyota & Honda cars, so my tool collection is all Metric with some basic SAE tools.
The OEM used metric fittings which worked very well for me and I used Metric Snap On Flare Nut wrenches. Upon installation of the new hose, the fittings are SAE with metric threads, GO FIGURE? Had to dust off the BONNEY SAE wrenches and put them to use, installation went smoothly and had to modify/fabricate some new brackets for the new hose.
My point is have both sets, OEM will be either SAE or METRIC, but the replacement part will not be the matching or different SAE or METRIC sizes. As a result, I'll be adding a SAE flare nut wrench to my tool collection.
Recently, My 1991 Honda Accord needed the high pressure power steering hose replaced. The original worn out hose was OEM (all the fittings and brackets fit the OEM perfectly), the replacement is an ORILEY's hose.
First: I own Toyota & Honda cars, so my tool collection is all Metric with some basic SAE tools.
The OEM used metric fittings which worked very well for me and I used Metric Snap On Flare Nut wrenches. Upon installation of the new hose, the fittings are SAE with metric threads, GO FIGURE? Had to dust off the BONNEY SAE wrenches and put them to use, installation went smoothly and had to modify/fabricate some new brackets for the new hose.
My point is have both sets, OEM will be either SAE or METRIC, but the replacement part will not be the matching or different SAE or METRIC sizes. As a result, I'll be adding a SAE flare nut wrench to my tool collection.
bmwohio
Well-known member
I have a 97 BMW, and have friends who have older BMW's and all I typically buy is metric. I have a nice SK flare wrench for bleeding my brakes. Also, my wife has a 2007 Ford Edge, and I have yet to find an SAE bolt on that when I work on it (granted, all I've done is change the oil and rotate the tires)
Coolabah
Well-known member
Absolutely. I wasn't trying to be a SA !! My point is, when I was working on that Datsun/Nissan, I totally needed BOTH !!! If I remember correctly brake lines were SAE carbs tubing metric... someone can correct me here...
I guess , also , you might need full sets of both in an ideal world. Personally ? I find for what I do now, I have full metric set of everything , only SAE I need is 1/2" as 12mm or 13mm (sockets, wrenches ) -nearest equivalent- are usually totally poor fit for 0.5 inch!! Occasionally go out and buy a SAE socket for special purpose stuff but it is surprising how often you can fit a metric part -close enough to work without scrooging up stuff- to an imperial nut/bolt
It is different in USA, here in Australia we have been metric for the last 40+ years or so.... But , still, I am old enough to remember inches & pounds
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trainwreck
Well-known member
Sometimes, you find that the open end of a wrench spreads under heavy load (which oft leads to rounded corners.) You would naturally reach for a box end wrench, but sometimes, there will be something in the way that prevents you from putting the box end wrench over the nut. Brake lines are a classic example of this. The hard line prevents you from using a box end wrench, but an open end wrench will often round the nut. Couple that with lines using softer nuts (to hold the flared end), and you have a recipe for frustration.
Enter the flare nut wrench (so called because you use it on nuts that hold flared lines.) It's also called a line wrench (because, well, you use it on lines.) There's a cut out so you can get the wrench around the line, and then down onto the nut. But the wrench also has five corners, which grip better than an open ended wrench.
You might also find them pretty handy on brake bleeder valves. You can generally use a box end wrench to minimize rounded corners, but some calipers are designed so that a box end is almost impossible to slip on. A flare nut wrench often has a better chance in those circumstances.
Some people will recommend skipping flare nut wrenches, and buying flare nut crowfoot(s) instead. The idea is that both are limited use tools, so if you can combine them, you can save some space/weight in your tool box. This is what I chose to do. I was a little hesitant because if you're using crowfoot wrenches, you're already tight on space, and finding the space to slip the flare nut crowfoot over a nut instead of an open end crowfoot onto a nut might be tough. Thankfully, I haven't run into that particular problem yet.
Enter the flare nut wrench (so called because you use it on nuts that hold flared lines.) It's also called a line wrench (because, well, you use it on lines.) There's a cut out so you can get the wrench around the line, and then down onto the nut. But the wrench also has five corners, which grip better than an open ended wrench.
You might also find them pretty handy on brake bleeder valves. You can generally use a box end wrench to minimize rounded corners, but some calipers are designed so that a box end is almost impossible to slip on. A flare nut wrench often has a better chance in those circumstances.
Some people will recommend skipping flare nut wrenches, and buying flare nut crowfoot(s) instead. The idea is that both are limited use tools, so if you can combine them, you can save some space/weight in your tool box. This is what I chose to do. I was a little hesitant because if you're using crowfoot wrenches, you're already tight on space, and finding the space to slip the flare nut crowfoot over a nut instead of an open end crowfoot onto a nut might be tough. Thankfully, I haven't run into that particular problem yet.
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wafrederick
Well-known member
The cheap flare nut wrenches do have one huge drawback,they tend to spread open easily.The flare nut crowsfoots do come handy.The vortec 350s and 4.3s are this way,no room to get a flare nut wrench in to get to the fuel line fitting by the intake manifold.I grab a 5/8" flare nut crows foot in my toolcart and put it on a 2 foot extension bar.Put it on the fitting grabbing a hand ratchet and break the fitting loose.Some power steering lines too.
wheats71
Well-known member
flare nut wrenches are used on the fittings on tubes like brake and fuel lines
the wrench spreads the torque to more flats on the nut [ie more grip] as the nuts are usually made of soft steel and a normal wrench will slip
as far as the cheap ones at the local auto store save your money and buy good ones
the wrench spreads the torque to more flats on the nut [ie more grip] as the nuts are usually made of soft steel and a normal wrench will slip
as far as the cheap ones at the local auto store save your money and buy good ones