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Safety Disconnect

ltusler

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
204
Location
Greenfield, MN
My in floor heating boiler is a Seisco 9k unit. The specs call for a 50A x2 disconnect. A couple of years ago I notice the 60A one that was installed had melted and was making crackling noises. So I replaced it with a like unit. Now its doing the same thing again.

So do I need to install a larger one, or is there a problem down stream from it?

TIA!

This is the one I installed.
https://www.menards.com/main/electr...48-c-6435.htm?tid=-5705665774111765499&ipos=8
 
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Max

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 16, 2018
Messages
3,334
Location
Georgia
My in floor heating boiler is a Seisco 9k unit. The specs call for a 50A x2 disconnect. A couple of years ago I notice the 60A one that was installed had melted and was making crackling noises. So I replaced it with a like unit. Now its doing the same thing again.

So do I need to install a larger one, or is there a problem down stream from it?

TIA!

This is the one I installed.
https://www.menards.com/main/electr...48-c-6435.htm?tid=-5705665774111765499&ipos=8
If you’re asking if a 60A disconnect should melt every couple of years the answer is no. The 60A disconnect should handle 50A essentially forever.

As @couch67 suggested I’d check the connections. I’d also use a clamp on ammeter to figure out what the load current is and then debug further as needed.
 

Max

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Joined
Jun 16, 2018
Messages
3,334
Location
Georgia
Those a/c disconnects don't hold up to heavy load. They claim 60A rating but I consider it 30-40A max.

Get a real safety switch.
I’m not disagreeing with you or your experience. But if the disconnect can’t handle its rated load, then either the mfg. or the testing authority screwed up.
 

sparky 1971

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2018
Messages
7,973
Location
Central Iowa
My in floor heating boiler is a Seisco 9k unit. The specs call for a 50A x2 disconnect. A couple of years ago I notice the 60A one that was installed had melted and was making crackling noises. So I replaced it with a like unit. Now its doing the same thing again.

So do I need to install a larger one, or is there a problem down stream from it?

TIA!

This is the one I installed.
https://www.menards.com/main/electr...48-c-6435.htm?tid=-5705665774111765499&ipos=8
That's a cheap AC disconnect. Get a real disconnect. I use Square D almost exclusively, but there's nothing wrong with Siemens either. Menards carries Eaton, but the only type they have are fused. Go to a supply house and get one. I linked a Square D just for visualization and a reference part number. it shouldn't cost as much as the site says, I paid $86.75 for one yesterday.


EDIT; I screwed up. The link is for a three pole disco. The two pole part number is DU222. I forgot that I wound up getting a three pole because the supply house was out of two poles. And used the same part number from my ticket.
 
Last edited:

Bert_

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Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
9,734
Location
NW Iowa
I’m not disagreeing with you or your experience. But if the disconnect can’t handle its rated load, then either the mfg. or the testing authority screwed up.
Compare the inside of a 60A ac disconnect to even a general duty 60A safety switch.

The ac disconnects also cost like $12. They can't achieve that price without cutting every possible corner.
 

tool_scrounge

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
4,192
Location
Southern California
+1 on a quality disconnect. We once had a 100A heavy duty disconnect for the garage 50A service. Never an issue, other than you and your close neighbors could hear it being actuated!
 
OP
L

ltusler

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
204
Location
Greenfield, MN
Thanks all. I bypassed the safety and wire nutted the leads. It was only the black lead that had a problem. The system has been running and the L1 and L2 are not getting warm at all. However the unit is not heating. I can see each heater element cycling from 0 to 18 amps, but the water is not getting warm. So I wonder if the unit is broken, its not showing any codes on the LED flasher.
 

Metal-Marc

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Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
7,185
Location
Foothills of the Adirondacks
Thanks all. I bypassed the safety and wire nutted the leads. It was only the black lead that had a problem. The system has been running and the L1 and L2 are not getting warm at all. However the unit is not heating. I can see each heater element cycling from 0 to 18 amps, but the water is not getting warm. So I wonder if the unit is broken, its not showing any codes on the LED flasher.
Bypassing safety switches is the way to go.

Worst case scenario is you burn the place down?
 

sparky 1971

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Joined
Oct 9, 2018
Messages
7,973
Location
Central Iowa
Bypassing safety switches is the way to go.

Worst case scenario is you burn the place down?
How is bypassing a non fused disconnect going to cause a fire? The wires being nutted together is better than the disconnect that was there before. I've done it many times to get something working while I went to get parts to make the proper fix.
 
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sparky 1971

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2018
Messages
7,973
Location
Central Iowa
I needed something to do and those people have more money than they know what to do with and I decided I wanted some of it I just stopped and gave them my card, then told them that the disconnect for the heat pump might be worn out. If they ever find out the truth, I'm doomed.
 

mike93lx

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Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,577
Location
Richmond, VA
I needed something to do and those people have more money than they know what to do with and I decided I wanted some of it I just stopped and gave them my card, then told them that the disconnect for the heat pump might be worn out. If they ever find out the truth, I'm doomed.
Lol. I bet you keep that burned out one on the truck and quickly hang it when the homeowner isn't looking
 
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