Sailor Beall prob

[ArmoredXteriors]

First time poster here. We're renting a shop and our sailor Beall has failed us. I'm unsure of the year or specs because all have been fairly worn off but I see the numbers 735-80 and what looks like 54-192-MC (maybe?) We arrived at the shop this morning and flipped the breaker and all we heard was a loud thud. So we turned on the heater thinking maybe it was just too cold. After the shop warmed we turned it on, and now nothing happens. Can anyone help?

 

[ArmoredXteriors]

Update, we've figured out there's an electrical problem. But when we do get electricity to it... It just himmms. Could it not be getting enough power

 

[seber]

Most likely a frozen pump. Can you turn it by hand? Otherwise, check the capacitors.

 

[ArmoredXteriors]

Yes, it can be turned by hand. We believe the shotgun shell looking fuses are bad. Gonna try that today

 

[dnschmidt]

If the fuses are bad why would it hum? It should do nothing. I'm in the check the capacitor camp. It's a starting problem and that's what the capacitors do.

 

[driftpin]

Always a good idea to list your location. Someone local to you may be able to help, know of a local parts/service source. Add it below your screen name/avatar. Someone who has inventory, service trucks & etc, like my friend's shop. Yes, he sells and services Saylor-Beall.

 

[redmondjp]

If the fuses are bad why would it hum? It should do nothing. I'm in the check the capacitor camp. It's a starting problem and that's what the capacitors do.

If it is a three-phase compressor (assuming that it is if at a commercial building), if one fuse blew, it would hum and not start. I would first check that all phase voltages are present and correct. Is the compressor in an unheated space? At one former employer, our compressor was outside the building, and the first start in the morning in the winter required us to go out and hit it with a heat gun for a few minutes, else the breaker would trip (pump oil too thick).

 

[ArmoredXteriors]

If the fuses are bad why would it hum? It should do nothing. I'm in the check the capacitor camp. It's a starting problem and that's what the capacitors do.

I'm unsure, but we replaced them and it is fine now. Thank you for the responce

 

[ArmoredXteriors]

If it is a three-phase compressor (assuming that it is if at a commercial building), if one fuse blew, it would hum and not start. I would first check that all phase voltages are present and correct. Is the compressor in an unheated space? At one former employer, our compressor was outside the building, and the first start in the morning in the winter required us to go out and hit it with a heat gun for a few minutes, else the breaker would trip (pump oil too thick).

We changed all the fuses and it works fine now. Thank you so much for the responce. The breaker was tripping in the emergency shut off box, probably because the oil was too thick... But ultimately we replaced the fuses and it works now. Maybe because we kept holding the flipped breaker to try to get it to start? I'm not sure, but thank you for the responce and we will turn the heater on from now on

 

[redmondjp]

If you lose one phase on a three-phase motor, it "single-phases" (yes, even though two remaining phases are connected, it is considered single phase from an electrical standpoint) the motor and it doesn't have enough current to start, so it will just hum. The can permanently damage the motor windings if left for too long. Phase-loss protection circuitry will protect the motor against this, but this is a relatively newer technology that is not in widespread use especially for this type of situation.

 

[WagonHo!]

I wish I had a Saylor Beall problem.

 

[redmondjp]

I wish I had a Saylor Beall problem.

I'll let you in on a little secret. Grainger's "house brand" of compressors is Speedaire. Grainger of course doesn't make their own compressors - they sell rebranded ones made by others, including Saylor Beall.

I purchased a Saylor Beall RV-15A (the "value" version of their R15 pump, which has reed valves and less fins on the cylinders than the R15 does) 80 gallon Speedaire-branded compressor with a 3 phase motor for $300 on Craigslist for my brother, who already had a single-phase 5HP motor to put on it. So whenever you see a Speedaire compressor for sale, you have to put on your detective hat and scrutinize the pictures of the pump to see who actually made it for them. This is one way to get a deal on one.

I was just at his shop last weekend and the compressor is working like a champ. He upgraded from a compressor with the all-aluminum IMC T29 pump (that had mocha-looking oil, yuck), and the all-cast-iron RV-15A pump is definitely a lot quieter.

 

[WagonHo!]

Saylors have a kind of name mystique, at least for me would love to own one. But $$$$
I have a 85 Dayton speedaire 230v 5 hp with the champion R15 pump. I picked it up for $400 from the guy that installed my Radiant system. Well actually his girlfriend sold it to me for $400, he was pissed because he was asking 700. But ate it cause I had done business with him. I honed it and put new rings and bearings, valves, those pressure dohickeys and cleaned the old ones for spares. It’s more than fine for me.

 

[ArmoredXteriors]

If you lose one phase on a three-phase motor, it "single-phases" (yes, even though two remaining phases are connected, it is considered single phase from an electrical standpoint) the motor and it doesn't have enough current to start, so it will just hum. The can permanently damage the motor windings if left for too long. Phase-loss protection circuitry will protect the motor against this, but this is a relatively newer technology that is not in widespread use especially for this type of situation.

Thank you for the response. My step father is an electrician but unknowledgeable when it comes to 3 phase.

 

[BeemerNut]

Thank you for the response. My step father is an electrician but unknowledgeable when it comes to 3 phase.

Proud owner of a VT-PL-735-60 Saylor Beall compressor from a Toyota dealership closing their doors after 51 years. Helping a friend vacate the building disconnecting everything electrical, tyre changer, lifts, compressors, lighting, tyre balancing machines. Like a kid in a candy store helping a friend then telling him i'm interested in the SB compressor of four years age back in 2019. Delivered free to my home shop 3 phase powered SB compressor of $250. Had a NIB 5 Hp Baldor compressor / fan motor stored storage away 5 Hp single phase along with the rated magnetic starter. Changed out heaters a wish come true replacing a 47 year old Quincy oil sucking freebie from a paint shop owner retiring years ago. This SB with pressure lube with low oil shutdown protection is quiet vs the old Quincy compressor when Quincy was top of the list now corrected, must add Saylor Beall is top of the list over Quincy. New Quincy has become rubbish (kind words) vs old Quincy being told by Quincy service techs more than once like four times over the years while working around service techs. Curtiss along with Kellogg-American rebuilt pumps if in good condition will also out live a young owner.

Not to be rude but wow, your step father must be a DIY residental type of "Sparky" at best vs a I.B.E.W. trained Journeyman wireman. Leave out house wiring I.B.E.W. wiremen. Popular Mechanics magazine self taught comes to mind the type post fire investigation teams report stating as "illegal wiring cause of fire", there goes your home owner's insurance coverage "up in smoke" policy "denied coverage". Commercial & industrial 45 year I.B.E.W. wireman, have seen it all the results of unqualified wiring damage / fires included. That's what overload heaters in magnetic starters are for "if properly rated" amperage installed protecting motors. Three phase first check all three legs hot "after the fuses" or load side of magnetic starters. Pitted blown away contacts in a mag starter being in service 30 years finally filing as example. Overfused with undersized wiring practices along with length of wire run not considered or applied vs 310.16 to 310.19 NEC code book our Bible vs some type of church belief saving a life. Fire damage rebuilding is a nasty job I avoided along with "dingbat" trouble shooting house call wiring issues (neighbors especially) on 50 or 80 plus year old houses that had butchered electical added several times over the years now a fire time bomb in the wait a burndowned home.

Don't forget inital startup inrush current spike before normal motor rpm's has been established having proper wire gauge feeding the motor including heaters. Cheap "junk" imported motors drawing higher running amps than as example a quality you must pay for Baldor compressor or fan duty motors. I'll take a 1,780 rpm 5 Hp motor over any 3.450 rpm motor no matter the brand along with low rpm pump heads producing less heat than cheaper high rpm pumps also having a shorter pump life.

Becareful out there, ask if your over your head dealing with electrical. You can't see electricity, if you can't find it, it sure can find you in a shocking way. End of rant.....~~=o&o>......