SAMs club 4ft led lights
- Thread starter J king
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Do not know and not sure any does knows for sure ( maybe the SAMs buyer knows ?)
They actually could be the same light ???????? Or the same components in a different box from a different factory.........
I would guess they are all made in China and Honeywell sold their name to a marketing company...........a second guess all these are built to price point and specifications might be down on a long list ??????
LOA as mentioned prior has had their share of issues............
Any of these bulbs and fixtures.........I would keep the receipts and a copy of the warranty off the box. I would also date the fixture.
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goblues15
Member
"Originally Posted by zendriver View Post
You'll save the watts the ballast use (18-30w)",
I was referring to the watts used by the ballast, not the entire fixture.
Since the LED tubes do not use the ballast - at all, the wattage used by the ballast, is 100% wasted and just creates unnecessary and possible damaging heat.
You'll save the watts the ballast use (18-30w)",
I was referring to the watts used by the ballast, not the entire fixture.
Since the LED tubes do not use the ballast - at all, the wattage used by the ballast, is 100% wasted and just creates unnecessary and possible damaging heat.
ratdoggy
Well-known member
BJ's has Lights of America 4 footers for $33
I have the "Honeywell" tubes from Sam's Club. They are just fine, but only a brand name printed on a product from China. It's a company called IDC.
LOL I called tech support and they answered "Westinghouse", They chuckled when I asked about a Honeywell product, "Oh I guess we're supporting that name too". I was glad they at least called me back.
They were supposed to send me instructions, on how to direct wire, the fixture, but never did. Figured it out myself.
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Yeah, I am too.
Since the OP was talking about T8 lamps....the ballast doesn't use anywhere near 18 watts.
The OP was about Sam's Club LED fixtures.
I was not trying to split hairs, just make a point, about upgrade LED tubes, that regardless of what the ballast watt usage is, it will be ZERO, once it's removed from the fixture, because it will be no longer needed.
I have some T8 retrofits, of another source and "manufacturer", that were specified not compatible - at all with older magnetic ballasts. Not even with the newer, shunted fixtures. Two tubes might work, but four made all quit.
They might be able to be direct wired and work fine.
See if you can get a manual, or check with the MFGr.
$10 is a good price.
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morehead
Active member
MScott, I tried these bulbs in a T8 fixture & would not come on when cold (10 degrees C) have you had any issues? Did you remove the ballasts?
MScott
Well-known member
My garage is heated so I have not tried them when cold. I keep the garage at around 50F and they actually started quicker than the fluorescent tubes in the same fixture. I just plugged them into the fixtures. No adjustment to the ballasts.
Yes. My mistake. I meant to refer to the posting that you quoted and responded to from another member, that was talking about T8's.
Here's the thing....
all of these lamps have different wattages. Typical ballast bypass tubes are in the 18 watt range, plus or minus. So, without any ballast at all, you consume 18 watts.
There are LED tubes that run on the ballast that use 12 watts. Plus 2 watts for the ballast losses and you're at 14 watts total per tube.
So, even with the ballast, this tube uses less energy than the tube without the ballast. Now, this is just one example. There are many others. So, to say that removing the ballast is necessary and will definitely save more energy is not quite accurate.
To your point, there are some dual source tubes out there that can be wired either way...with or without ballast. But they are not all that common, usually cost a little more because they have a driver (ballast) inside of them, and usually use a few more watts.
CD
southernfriedcj
Well-known member
I have a shop and garage build going. What amount of floor area will one of these Sam's lights cover with a 13' ceiling(40'x67') and a 10'(24'x26') ceiling? Thanks
I just removed my 8 ft. florescent fixtures and replaced them with 4 ft led fixtures from sams. I couldn't be happier . Instant on , much brighter and should be a little better on the energy usage. My shop is a 30x50x12 and I put 15 of them up in 5 rows of 3 . I do have one more that I'm going to install over an area of the workbench that gets used a lot.
G8rDuc
Well-known member
If y'all are interested, here's my post about the Home Depot lights.
I just picked up one of the $39 Home Depot LED lights to compare it to the Sams club lights that I never installed. To my eye the Sams club light seems much brighter. The Sams is definitely more of a blue/white light. The Home Depot is much more yellow but seems easier on your eyes. I downloaded a lumens app on my phone and I was surprised that the Home Depot light was reading around 700 lx and the Sams around 600 lx. I downloaded another app with similar results but in a dark room turning each on alternately, you would swear the Sams is much brighter. The Home Depot light has a cleaner look with the lens and the linkable feature is a big factor for me because I wired for multiple rows of lights fed at the beginning of the rows. Can anyone tell me if 36 of the Home Depot fixtures is adequate or overkill for a 30 x 50 x 10 with mostly vaulted ceilings?
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garrett1812
Well-known member
They look tons the same, except the Honeywell you can buy in white or silver. I only saw the LOA in silver (aluminum housing without paint, plastic white end pieces), and I don't think they mention this on the packaging. LOA also came with a few less mounting bits.
I returned my LOA and purchased more Honeywell (once back in stock), so they were all the same color. Used four to light a 1000 sq ft unfinished basement and they work great!
G8rDuc
Well-known member
Check my link in the post above yours. I took some pics of the Home Depot lights at night. That's a 900 sq foot (30x30) with 12ft light height. I'd venture to say that you're going to have overkill with 36 lights. I only used 8.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Looking to do my own review of both of those lights too, the link-able feature is a deal changer as long as the light is close to the sam's light, one thing I don't like about the sam's lights and I have 4 of them is the delayed ON time, they are not instant on.
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G8rDuc
Well-known member
Mine are instant on
Jimmy
Go Gators!
Jimmy
Go Gators!
TagMan
Well-known member
I just installed 6 of the Honeywell LED 4-footers in my 30'x30'x12' shop to replace the T12 fluorescent units that were in there for the last 22-years. When I turned them all on, I couldn't believe the brightness! My old fluorescent bulbs took forever to brighten up on a cold Winter day and I was going through bulbs about every 6-8 months.
Time will tell if they last or not, but while they're on, they're bright as day and I'll be enjoying them. Might have to start wearing sunscreen in the shop, though...............
Time will tell if they last or not, but while they're on, they're bright as day and I'll be enjoying them. Might have to start wearing sunscreen in the shop, though...............
LEDs generally seem to last forever, but your's have a 5 year warranty.
1971 f100
Member
I am thinking their intentions are for the people that want to switch out old fluorescent fixtures. This would maybe decrease swap out time. I have a few and they are nice and bright.
I agree.
The original florescence light, was a globe, but apparently they have determined, the tube distributes light the best.
Seeing how LEDs work, it just would not make as much sense to have them all packed in close , in a small fixture, and thus having to rely on diffusers, and or focusing lenses, versus simply spreading them out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[URL=http://s304.photobucket.com/user/cowzrul/media/IMG_4266_zpsaduiwgsk.jpg.html said:[/URL]
This is pretty much what I was thinking of doing in my 40x40x16 with a 4/12 roof. I was going to do 8 lights x 3 rows. I have 3 roll up doors so I was going to put each row on a switch so I could choose to have only a single row on or all 3 if needed.
How many have you put up total and are you happy with the light output?
Electricians ran power from my generator to see what it was going to look like. So it was just this one time we turned them on. I have 9 spread evenly down one side and 5 down the other because I built an office in a corner.
IFlyRC80
Member
I have a 40x60x12 with 4/12 pitch. Steel frame building. White liner panels, white insulation above the liner panels, white ceiling insulation. Medium gray epoxy floor.
I have 3 20' bays between the columns. I think I'm going to do 4 rows of 3 4' lights in each bay. So a total of 36 fixtures. I think I'm going to have a total of 6 switches split each bay in half. Then I can turn lights on depending on where I'm working. I've never heard anybody complaining of too many lights.
So are you guys putting an outlet close to the first fixture on a switch where you can turn power on and off to it? Or could they be wired direct and avoid the outlet?
I have 3 20' bays between the columns. I think I'm going to do 4 rows of 3 4' lights in each bay. So a total of 36 fixtures. I think I'm going to have a total of 6 switches split each bay in half. Then I can turn lights on depending on where I'm working. I've never heard anybody complaining of too many lights.
So are you guys putting an outlet close to the first fixture on a switch where you can turn power on and off to it? Or could they be wired direct and avoid the outlet?
G8rDuc
Well-known member
I used the Home Depot lights and put an outlet at the beginning of each row hooked to a switch.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Was in my local Sam's club today, most of the L.O.A. brand led lights are gone, they still have some but now have a full pallet of the newly branded Honeywell lights, not sure why the name change, but light looks the exact same.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Placing my experience in this thread just in case it helps somebody. 40 x 60 x 14 - 3 pitch roof.
cowzrul: Our shops look almost identical, mind if I ask how much your spray foam was (ballpark) and why you did not spray the beams/girts/pearlins? I have had contractors ask about those...and was wondering how they radiate heat in the summer since they are not coated?
fteufert
Well-known member
My Sams club lights fired right up when it was -10F here a month ago. They are bright and quiet.
A brand name, is often just that and absolutely no more, in today's economy.
I had the Sam's club "Honeywell" tubes.
Called Tech support, The polite people that called back, supported "Westinghouse" lighting products and actually chuckled, saying "oh, I guess we are supporting that brand too!".
The main company just imports Chinese made lighting products and appears to just puts whatever name anyone wants to print on them.
I always laugh when i see a TV infomercial, about some cheap electronic products, made by "Bell and Howell". After the microfiche industry went bust, they had to diversify!
Vegaman_Dan
Well-known member
Picked up a couple of these Honeywell lights and will definitely pick up more. A bargain for what you get.
If you are worried about the individual LED's not giving ambient light and more directional, you could add a shield over the unit with white plastic for a diffuser. That's the purpose of them. Another trick if you have a drywall ceiling is to turn them upside down and point them at the ceiling. You'll get a larger bounce back light that is softer and more ambient.
If you are worried about the individual LED's not giving ambient light and more directional, you could add a shield over the unit with white plastic for a diffuser. That's the purpose of them. Another trick if you have a drywall ceiling is to turn them upside down and point them at the ceiling. You'll get a larger bounce back light that is softer and more ambient.