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Sanborn 130/165 Compressor Pump

liquidh8

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Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
Hello all! Hope your 2014 has been better than mine thus far :mad:

So, I have this old Sanborn/Blackmax/coleman 60 Gal. 3HP compressor, got it off my father in law a few years ago with a bad valve plate gasket, I mad one real quick and was running it. Sandblasting, air tools, painting no problem.

Fast forward to present, the reed valves are all gummed up and don't seal properly, I pulled them out but don't really have the right rivets for an airtight seal. The gaskets are blown out, the filters need replacing. So, I just ordered an overhaul kit, valve plate, rings and gaskets.

But, there is a listing for a ball valve (a ball) and a spring. I am thinking this is for a compressor pump run with a gas motor. This pump doesn't have one, but I don't know what was done to it before I got it a few (4 +/-) years ago.

Items 19 and 36 in the diagram below.

Sanborn_165_pump_parts.jpg


This diagram does not have them at all.

130-165%20pump.png


I didn't take any pics of the compressor, I may have some laying around.

Thanks guys.
 
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G_P

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Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
7,135
Location
Central CT
The ball/spring is the check valve between the tank and pump. I have a similar compressor and coming out of the tank was an aluminum "tree" with multiple fittings on it and where the metal line from the pump connected to the "tree" there was the ball/spring.

When I redid the compressor I replaced that rubber ball valve with a load genie check/unloader valve.

This diagram is similar to what I had and the ball/spring are parts 63+64

Sanborn_84A150_104A200_compressor_parts.jpg
 
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liquidh8

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Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
Ok. Well, this pump don't have this spring and ball. I thought is an unloaded valve or something, since on this pump it goes between the block and the valve plate, in a hole between the cylinders, on the air intake side. You can kinda of see the hole on the diagram.

I have a check valve in the tank inlet of this compressor. I will be taking it out and checking to make sure it is good.
 

bravvo

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Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
46
Have the same pump and also ordered from Mastertoolrepair. My experience was that they dont stock the parts but order them when you place your order. Mine took 2-3 weeks to arrive.
 
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liquidh8

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Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
Thack sux :sad: but at least I could even get the parts, even if they take a few weeks. I was going to just buy a HF pump, but with the overhaul kit and 2 new good filters, this was cheaper and I think this is a better pump.
 

bravvo

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Aug 23, 2011
Messages
46
If it makes you feel better I also checked into getting the parts directly from the factory and it was going to take just as long and cost more after shipping. After the repair my pump works good so no complaints there.
 
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liquidh8

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Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
It probably is a better pump, plus you'll get the satisfaction of repairing it.

I thought so. I have no real proof, but this pump lasted this long, the cylinders look good and it does still have compression. I just figured since it was apart, I might as well throw some new rings in it.

If it makes you feel better I also checked into getting the parts directly from the factory and it was going to take just as long and cost more after shipping. After the repair my pump works good so no complaints there.

Thank you for that, I am just glad it happened now, during the real cold when I am not using the compressor that often, then in a few weeks. :)

Cancel your order and try these guys....cheaper than Mastertoolrepair and very helpful http://www.arkansas-ope.com/

I will look at this site today, and see what is what. Thanks :thumbup:
 

EOC_Jason

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Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Messages
11,388
Location
Bentonville, AR
I have a similar pump to that. My reeds are a little different and they had screws holding them in so I was able to remove them and clean with a razor blade. I got new gaskets from mastertoolrepair too, works like brand new.
 
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liquidh8

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Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
I had originally drilled the rivets out and cleaned the reads, but they weren't perfectly flat, and I had issues getting them to seal. I also only had the regular rivets with the nail, I used aluminum and peened them flat, but they didn't seal 100%. I figured it was already broke, so I may as well try.

I also had made gaskets, but they did not hold up. I didn't have the correct gasket material to make them. Sooo, I decided to just overhaul it. I have to did out my ball hones for the cylinders. I also hope the kit gave me the ring gap specs.

I'll take a bunch of pictures and maybe make a thread showing how to rebuild/overhaul the pump.
 
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liquidh8

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Sep 19, 2013
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Shippensburg, PA
I got to work on it a little tonight. I went a tore it down for clean up and inspection.

Here is the old valve plate, the one I tried to fix. If you look close you can see the rivets aren't the correct ones, I didn't have the correct ones. The spring steel (reed) was warped for each one, enough to not seal 100%. that is why I replaced it.

ubu5egeq.jpg


8e4ejuqe.jpg


Then the gaskets I made but they didn't last. The really weren't the correct material for the head and valve plate.

u6e5a2y7.jpg


The head.

ahu2e6e5.jpg


Here is the pump before taking it apart.

2e4ahyqu.jpg
 
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liquidh8

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Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
Side view before dis-assembly. Sort of dirty, but nothing really special. The crank is an interference fit into the rear bearing. I used a long pry bar to pop it out. Leaving the front plate, the crank snout, on.

datezara.jpg


Crank and rods.

epazujav.jpg


Oil pan. It was pretty crusty. I cleaned this out.

te2umyha.jpg


Empty crankcase.

6u8u2u4e.jpg


Here is the crank.

ruty9e2a.jpg


The crank and rods have some nice grooves in them. I am not replacing them though. At this point, I am running it till it gets a rod knock. I just polished the crank journals and rod big ends up to smooth them out some. You can't go too much, or the clearances would be too big.
 
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liquidh8

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Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
Piston and rods.

2eja9uja.jpg


Here is the shiny new valve plate. The reed valves are nice and tight, seal great. :)

upe6ebet.jpg


Freshened up the cylinders with a stone hone. For life of me I can't find any of my ball hones. :mad:

eme6e9es.jpg


Removed all the old rings and cleaned up the pistons.

etaqedut.jpg


Cleaned up the rod big ends, used a socket and some 2000 grit paper to polish the big up some to smooth it out. There are grooves in both rods, one worse than the other. :mad:

7adama6e.jpg
 
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liquidh8

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Sep 19, 2013
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Location
Shippensburg, PA
Started installing the pistons and rods, after putting the new rings on of course. All the ring gaps are staggered.

7e6uva8y.jpg


e6uva8aj.jpg


Here is the crank. I cleaned up the journals as best I could. I didn't want to take too much material off.

nygutu7e.jpg


Crank and rods in and tightened to spec.

9ujuhy4e.jpg


Oil pan cleaned up.

aqusupe8.jpg
 
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liquidh8

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Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
Got it back together. I need to get another check valve I think. This one is a little flaky.
hu3uve5a.jpg


puny4use.jpg


ryny2ama.jpg


So, I may run it with the old check valve, just to see if it works.
 

kams1973

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Oct 3, 2010
Messages
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Location
Amarillo, TX
Excellent work. Go ahead and replace the check valve. 1) You've already put a lot of time and effort into this project & 2) Check valves are inexpensive
 
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liquidh8

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Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
Excellent work. Go ahead and replace the check valve. 1) You've already put a lot of time and effort into this project & 2) Check valves are inexpensive

I am going to. Wish I could find one local, now I have to wait for shipping again. :mad:

You can usually find check valves on ebay cheap.

Thanks, I'll look around today.

Maybe there is a better design out there. :)
 
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liquidh8

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Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
Well, I got it together. Seems to run good, and no crazy noises. I have to figure out how long it's supposed to fill the tank from empty.

y4agereq.jpg
 
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liquidh8

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Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
Thank you for that link. Looks like the performance is good. I took 6 minutes and 22 seconds to go from 0 psi to 140 psi.

I then realized from the pump specs, it says 125 psi max. So I turned it down some.
 

aka rotten

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Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
154
Thank you for that link. Looks like the performance is good. I took 6 minutes and 22 seconds to go from 0 psi to 140 psi.

I then realized from the pump specs, it says 125 psi max. So I turned it down some.

Just following you post and realised your from Yardley ,Pa. I lived in Fallisington, Pa. 60 some year ago, Small world.
 
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liquidh8

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Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
119
Location
Shippensburg, PA
I ran the compressor a few times last night, re-torqued the head and valve plate bolts. We will see how it lasts.

I ultimately want to get a 2 stage 80+ gallon. So I am not investing any more money in this.
 
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