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sanborn air tank+2 maybe?

1930artdeco

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Went looking at a 60 gal. upright Sanborn air tank today-she wants $100. There is no pump and the motor may or may not work. The tank was made in 87 and at some point it was inspected by the state of Washington-don't know when it was last used. I however have the pump that I got from an earlier purchase-https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/my-new-wayne-air-compressor.540358/#post-10944522 and a new motor (1.5 HP I think). I bought to match what would have powered the pump originally. After testing the original tank and it failing I started looking for another tank.

So..I have two options:

1) mount my pump and motor and replumb this tank (or use the 5HP motor if it still works)

2) She has a 30 gal. Campbell Hausfield made in the US air compressor as well. I was wondering if it was worth it to plumb the two tanks together for added volume.

She wants $100 for the 60 gal and $50 for the others. Thoughts on either route to take? I will of course be testing the tank/tanks when I get them home.

Thanks,

Mike
 

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1930artdeco

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So picked it up today and figured it came from a body shop due to the paint/bondo dust on it. Got it out of the truck and drained about a pint-maybe and 5-10 lbs. of air out it. Plus, the water came out clear! I will hook the motor up to a 220 cord and test it to see if it spins or hums next. Then I will test this tank-hoping it is good by the clear water. I am thinking that I am going to build a structure for pump and motor. That way I can pump the air through a dryer of some type and then into the tank to minimize moisture in the tank. Well that is the current thought right now.

Mike
 
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1930artdeco

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So this is what I got (image just for reference) it just came with the tank and motor. So it will be a bit of a Frankenstein type system.
 

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Beerhippie

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So this is what I got (image just for reference) it just came with the tank and motor. So it will be a bit of a Frankenstein type system.
Did you get the 30 gallon, too?

It's very much worth it to have more storage--your motor will thank you. If you have long runs of air plumbing in the shop, and a tool that uses a lot of air over a short time (like an impact wrench), put the aux. tank near that tool. This eliminates/minimizes air volume drop due to line restriction.
 
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1930artdeco

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No I did not but I can go back and get one of them. I just did not know if having that extra tank was worth taxing the pump/motor. The whole system will sit outside in a shed next to the garage.
 

Beerhippie

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No I did not but I can go back and get one of them. I just did not know if having that extra tank was worth taxing the pump/motor. The whole system will sit outside in a shed next to the garage.
It will actually take a load off the motor/comp. Motors, in particular, really don't like "short cycling", starting and stopping all the time. More storage=less cycling.
 
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1930artdeco

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Got it. I just messaged the lady selling the tanks so will see what happens. If I get it or the other one (the IR is open to the atmosphere, whereas the CH is still sealed up) that will bring my storage up to 90 gal. Assuming that my pump is good and produces 7 CFM will the 90 gal. be enough to support a paint gun? I will be running the pump to about 100 psi per the data plate on the tank.
 
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Beerhippie

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Got it. I just messaged the lady selling the tanks so will see what happens. If I get it or the other one (the IR is open to the atmosphere, whereas the CH is still sealed up) that will bring my storage up to 90 gal. Assuming that my pump is good and produces 7 CFM will the 90 gal. be enough to support a paint gun? I will be running the pump to about 100 psi per the data plate on the tank.
How much air does your gun use? Do the math. You 90 gallons converts to ~12 cubic feet. not knowing how much air your gun will draw, I can't go any further, but the storage volume is a damper between the output of your comp and the demand of your gun.

For instance, if your gun is drawing 10 cfm @ the output pressure of your comp, it'll be just over a minute 'till your comp comes on. They you'll have no more than 7 cfm to try to run your gun. If you stop until the comp shuts down, you'll have another minute or so at full pressure.

Storage is good, but doesn't replace output from a comp for high-demand uses.

If the gun runs on a lower pressure than your compressor produces, that changes the math. P1V1=P2V2.
 
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1930artdeco

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Thank you. Lots of variables to think of and I am a newbie at all of this. And I have not seen that equation in 30+ years.
 
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1930artdeco

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The tube that goes from the pump into the tank was pinched off and has a funky nut that bolts to the tank. Can I get this type of fitting at the hardware store? It is 3/8 pipe thread. Or is it a specialty item due to how it sits in the tank and screws down?
 

Beerhippie

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The tube that goes from the pump into the tank was pinched off and has a funky nut that bolts to the tank. Can I get this type of fitting at the hardware store? It is 3/8 pipe thread. Or is it a specialty item due to how it sits in the tank and screws down?
Picture!
 
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1930artdeco

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Good news. I pressure checked the tank to 140 and it held for 6+ minutes!!! I did have to bump it a few times due to the drain valve and gauge leaking a bit. But they are going to be replaced anyhow so not too concerned. Now onto building the system up and making sure the pump does in fact work at speed.

Thank you all for your help.

Mike
 

Beerhippie

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Good news. I pressure checked the tank to 140 and it held for 6+ minutes!!! I did have to bump it a few times due to the drain valve and gauge leaking a bit. But they are going to be replaced anyhow so not too concerned. Now onto building the system up and making sure the pump does in fact work at speed.

Thank you all for your help.

Mike
Fill a spray bottle with a thick mixture of dish soap and water--I mean so thick it's hard to spray. Pressurize the tank and soak it with the solution. Watch for foam "beards" to form. Pinholes are hard to detect when you have other leaks.
 
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