Sandblast questions

[WayWang]

New to media blasting and have a few questions. A little background...

I built this cabinet because I wanted one a little larger than the HF model. I will need the extra room for wheels and such. Plus I got what I wanted for less than the purchase price of HF's model. If you look close you can see a HF 21 gal compressor in the background. It wont be there long, but thats another story altogether.

My question is about media selection. I chose to start with the med grade black beauty. It does a decent job but it also leaves metal surfaces very rough. I would say its like 100 grit sandpaper texture. I am currently re finishing anitque steamer trunks and have to deal with very old metal. I know there are ample media types but I would like one that doesnt leave such a rough pitted look yet still removes rust, paint and corrosion with ease.

Also are the $20 air guns on amazon really that much worse than the $55 ones on TP Tools ? Do the ones that cost more just last longer or blast better or both ? btw I already learned to replace the siphon hose for the cheap guns. Makes a huge difference.

Any help from the guys in the garage would be great !

 

[5mall5nail5]

For a low/no profile you want fine glass bead. I get mine from HF they have very fine bead. Its almost more of a "dust" than a bead. Here is a piece I've blasted w/ bead:


Casting lines post-grind by Jon Kensy, on Flickr

Most of the texture is from casting, but that "pin boss" you see is steel and the profile on it is from beading.

Black beauty/diamond is aggressive - its primarily for paint/rust removal. Bead is much more polite in not profiling the piece.

 

[Joeskey]

I go with the harbor freight sodablast media for paint removal, it leaves it fairly smooth.
If you go to a tractor supply store and pick up that 50lb bag for like 8 dollars that stuff works pretty good too but it will leave the surface with a texture.

 

[ghnl]

TP Tools has a variety of blasting media available. I have used their **** Magic - ground glass.

 

[Gamble]

I got a sandblaster from HF and it was all sealed up and been in use from the last owner. I switched to glass beads from HF and they were so fine the cabinet leaked and I had to reseal a few spots. Not a big deal at all but the stuff is like dust. It's VERY fine, so make sure your cabinet is 100% sealed.
Also I used the gun from home depot that I ordered online for $20 and some better and longer gloves off ebay for $20. WORLD of difference with that gun.
here is a part I did in 5-7 minutes
Before

After

I'll be getting another sandblast cabinet sooner or later and will do the same setup

 

[5mall5nail5]

Gamble which blaster do you have and which gloves fit? I am ok now, but I want to have a backup. I have the standing cabinet not the benchtop one. Also, what gun did you use exactly?

I cracked my window pretty bad - need to get a replacement. Know of one?

 

[Gamble]

I had this one
http://www.harborfreight.com/abrasive-blast-cabinet-42202.html
And the last guy built a stand for it. Just make sure you seal it up really well.
I believe it was this gun
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...&keyword=sandblast&storeId=10051#.UJlTIsXA9X0

And for gloves I don't remember exactly. I "THINK" they were 8" diameter and 24" long. They were longer than the OEM gloves but worked well. Honestly if they were 22" or just a little shorter they would have been perfect.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...=8+inch+sand+blast+gloves&_osacat=0&_from=R40
And I had to stretch the ends of them a little to get them to fit around the hole in the cabinet. It was a tight fit but overall a great investment.

My glass was terrible. I just kept moving my head around to see in there, also the OEM light in there is horrible. No idea on where to get a replacement glass that is made to fit, instead maybe try your local hardware store for some lexan and drill some holes and call it done.

 

[racer1]

Ok guys heres a tip to help with the cab blasters. The glass always get crappy, and your always changing the inner liner....Go to the hardware store. get a roll of clear window film. thick stuff. cut the roll just a little longer than the hgt of the glass. take a wooden dowel and cut two pcs just longer than the roll of plastic film. Take L brackets and mount to cabinet to hold the dowels on both side of glass. remove glass, lay film across opening and put roll on one dowel, and other end wind around other dowel on the other side of glass opening. put glass and its frame back on over film. you may have to modify the frame slightly to do this. now when the film gets cloudy, you simply reach over and roll a new section of film from one side and your clear to see again and continue....Just like on cameras on race cars. you see the film sliding across the lens when it gets dirty. Saves lots of time.