Sanity Check - 3 Car Attached Quote

[Redneckvtek]

Hello All,

Thanks in advance for any advice or feedback you can provide on this.

I have gone back and forth with garage build plans for a long time. I think I am finally ready to pull the trigger. I have a 100K budget + 20k contingency, if I go beyond that I need to start asking tough questions and making tough decisions.

The Wife wants some more interior space so this is the plan I have come up with, plus a quote I received from an Angi's list contractor.
Location is Raleigh, NC outside of the city limits.

The Concept is a 2+1 garage with office space above the 2. I asked the contractor to leave as much work unfinished as possible to keep the cost down, as I can do that once the COO is issued (if i understand correctly). Examples would be only minimum electrical downstairs, no downstairs insulation or interior finishing, no concrete finish work, no downstairs hvac.
There is no plumbing planned for this project, and the existing lot is flat with a mild slope front-back of ~18"

The other potential fly in the ointment is my current 200a service. It passes under the proposed location of this, so I expect the wire will need to be re-run. Additionally, my home is all electric so my existing 200a service is at capacity. Therefore I expect to upgrade to a 400a service and install a exterior breaker panel with 2x 200a main breakers which would feed my existing 200a panel and the new building's panel (likely 200a as well to serve tools and elec. car chargers).

Please let me know if this budget is reasonable, if the quote seems reasonable and in line with industry standards, and what questions I should be asking the contractor before I move forward.

I do have one other contractor who I have been discussing with. His "verbal" quote was ~150k but he cannot narrow that down unless I commit to approx 10k of Concept and Planning costs, which would result in a final planset and permits.

I don't want to get into this thinking it can be done for 100K and end up with a partially done project and no money to finish it.


The sketch I have provided:




And this is the quote I received.

Admin Services $14,000.00
provide on site supervision and all needed insurance and drawings, as well as time to maintain an efficient work timeline.

Demolition Services $3,000.00
Demo the described area of work and take away all applicable trash and debris and dispose of safely. removing any dirt that is not needed or wanted by the customer. there will be a onsite dumpster for trash.

Flooring Services $3,500.00
install laminate or lvp. customer to choose the flooring at a budget at 3.50 a sqft.

Framing $21,000.00
provide materials and all rough framing materials per nc 2018 code and any engineering drawings that may be applicable. all framing will be built per the engineers specs on the final approved drawings by the customer and 123 renovate.

Electrical Services $26,000.00
installation of electrical services that are needed for minimum code for nc 2018 install a new 400 amp service panel. install minimum wiring for the garage areas and normal for the living space above the garage.

Gutters $2,200.00
install matching gutters to house or customer chosen type of gutter. gutters will be put into the ground as well.

Hvac services $8,500.00
install all necessary materials and unit for hvac system needed for per 2018 nc code.

Drainage, hardscape services. $14,000.00
install the footings and foundations to meet customer and engineers specs.

Roof installation $16,000.00
install new shingles on the house and the new addition. shingles will be black charcoal or grey. brand of shingles is gaf timberline shingles. 20 year warranty and 7 year on labor.

Trim Carpentry $9,000.00
install the doors and trim and siding. install garage doors per the customer choices, install the hardiplank siding to match the house.

Window install $4,500.00
purchase and install matching windows to the existing windows sized 1/2 inch smaller to fit into the rough opening and allow for proper insulation and breathing of the house and window to ensure that the window maintains the full manufactures warranty.

Painting Services $4,000.00
paint the inside of the add-on of the two office spaces, paint the outside siding to match the house.

Subtotal $125,700.00

Payment schedule: 10% down, then pay for each subsection as progress is reached.

These are the questions I have so far (for the contractor, I will send him an email after thinking on it and soliciting feedback):
1. Insulation and Drywall for upstairs - is this budgeted, and if so which line item?
2. Concrete - is the garage floor concrete included in the "hardscape" line item?
3. Doors - What is included in the garage door portion - just the doors, or also openers, and if so which ones? I will need "hi-rise" tracks to allow for future lift install.
4. Windows - what windows are included in this line item?
5. Electrical - Can you please break this into "new electric for construction" and "upgrade electric - 200 amp to 400 amp upgrade" items?


Questions for the hive mind:
Shingles - are these decent shingles? I don't need fancy, but I would like to buy something that will last another 25+ years. The plan is to have the contractor do both the new building and my existing house (2200 sq ft) so it matches.
Should I try to get the 400a upgrade done separate - IE before breaking ground on the building? I have already reached out to my electric utility so I should hear back early this week.

What else do I need to be asking?

- Is the budget reasonable for what I am asking or am I way off?
- Is the quote reasonable - meaning in line for the scope of work. If its too good to be true I should be scared. If its too high (I dont think it is), I should keep shopping.

Thanks again,
Chris

 

[AC-WC]

I would get an electrician to quote the 400A upgrade. I know it's not cheap and it looks like he budgeted the electric for the new add on with the upgrade. The other stuff I can't really advise on. Prices have changed so much and all I've done since 2020 is nothing like your plans.

 

[coldh2o]

Hard to read the sketch but you have 1500 sq ft in the garage and 1000 sq ft upstairs?

Around here the approx. $50/ sq ft quoted would be a killer price for the scope of work, I would expect more like $75-100 depending on finishes, etc. I'm in Canada though.

Seems to be a pretty comprehensive quote, if not overly detailed. I'd want to know more about the footings/foundation (frost wall or floating slab?) and garage floor - thickness, PSI, level of finish.

To make it very clear, I would include a list of exclusions in the contract to detail what you are doing vs. the contractor.

 

[Copymutt]

I’d be thinking twice about plumbing

 

[Redneckvtek]

I would get an electrician to quote the 400A upgrade. I know it's not cheap and it looks like he budgeted the electric for the new add on with the upgrade. The other stuff I can't really advise on. Prices have changed so much and all I've done since 2020 is nothing like your plans.

Will do. I am pending the electrical utility engineer to contact me to discuss the 400A upgrade. I don't mind doing this separate, Its coming either way with electric vehicle charging.

Hard to read the sketch but you have 1500 sq ft in the garage and 1000 sq ft upstairs?

Around here the approx. $50/ sq ft quoted would be a killer price for the scope of work, I would expect more like $75-100 depending on finishes, etc. I'm in Canada though.

Seems to be a pretty comprehensive quote, if not overly detailed. I'd want to know more about the footings/foundation (frost wall or floating slab?) and garage floor - thickness, PSI, level of finish.

To make it very clear, I would include a list of exclusions in the contract to detail what you are doing vs. the contractor.

Yes, 1472+800 = 2272 sqft. 1472 unfinished, 800 finished. That comes out to spot on $50/sqft if you take out 10k for roofing the existing house.

I’d be thinking twice about plumbing

Care to elaborate? Am I missing something obvious? I have a utility sink in the existing garage along with an ice maker.

 

[TRWham]

Based on my experience in the Atlanta market, I think your budget is way less than half what you need to build this project. Fully finished residential is in the $300 per square foot range here and even adjusting for the reduced scope of your project $100/sf seems quite optimistic and the quote you have is a fantasy. I suggest you engage a designer or architect to produce plans and specs prior to approaching contractors for proposals. You should probably also verify your zoning constraints sooner rather than later. A common "gotcha" for additions lately is limits on impervious surface coverage once you account for the additional building area and presumably an additional driveway leading to that garage. You might also be limited to one curb cut if you intend to add a driveway, so you might want to sort that detail.

As for leaving some items for later: you will at least need to insulate and drywall the garage ceiling to get a final, as that is a required separation from the habitable space above, and I'm not sure they will let you leave the walls unfinished. You might also need to do work in the existing space to pass. I am specifically thinking of smoke and CO detectors as it is unlikely your current system meets code, and that is an area that is specifically required to be updated with every AHJ we have encountered. Another detail is to ensure your windows allow sufficient egress area as they will likely consider the office space as a potential bedroom.

 

[Mikes61]

My ex-wife used to say, twice as much and twice as long. I hated that she was right when I built my simple, attached 23’ x 40’ garage.

Im in CA, if that makes any difference. I’m over $130,000 and that didn’t include garage doors, insulation or drywall. There were a couple of change orders during construction that made the price increase, but why build something that you’re not going to be happy with when it’s done.

Just be prepared to go way over budget.

 

[CombatNinja]

If that is an actual quote for the year 2024 in Raleigh, sign the papers right now. No way you are getting that built for $50/sq.ft. That is roughly 1/4 the market in that area. Raleigh is such a boom town that everyone that can swing a hammer is up to their eyeballs in lucrative new construction.

 

[Redneckvtek]

If that is an actual quote for the year 2024 in Raleigh, sign the papers right now. No way you are getting that built for $50/sq.ft. That is roughly 1/4 the market in that area. Raleigh is such a boom town that everyone that can swing a hammer is up to their eyeballs in lucrative new construction.

That makes me suspicious this is a scam or a bait-and-switch operation.

If I need 300K to get this done I need to know, reality is reality, and I just don't have 300k.

 

[duneslider]

50 a square foot seems extremely low to me too. I could see going bare bones for 75-100 a foot. The problem is you keep adding little things that add up. 400a service, new roof, etc. Maybe the quote is legit but it would be worth more conversations about the level of finish you are getting. Ask for references and call them and specifically ask them about budgets and if they were kept.
Are permits required where you are? Have you priced that out?

 

[pbon]

I agree with all the concerns noted above. Maybe leave it all unfinished except for relocating the electrical line. I don’t know your current electrical needs, but doubt you need 400 amps unless you have electric heat, stove and oven.

 

[madhatter]

Its hard to believe you'll need 400 amps. what are you planning to do in the garage? I went 300 amps in my all electric house and that includes a wood shop and essentially two kitchens, and the Electrician thought I was crazy.

 

[pembol]

My gut feeling is there is no way you are getting this done for $100K, or even $120K. We are building a 1000 sq ft detached garage - unfinished, but with some architectural complexity and are looking at about $100K. Now admittedly I am in a very expensive market and am using the same builder who is currently building our house to do this (not a 'garage builder'), but to expect to build an attached garage with finished space and utilities (which is way more complicated) for less than half of this seems highly unrealistic. That said I know nothing about the local Raleigh market.

I would guess you do need closer to $300K to do this, unless you cut all sorts of corners, in which case do you really want to do it?

 

[Redneckvtek]

My gut feeling is there is no way you are getting this done for $100K, or even $120K. We are building a 1000 sq ft detached garage - unfinished, but with some architectural complexity and are looking at about $100K. Now admittedly I am in a very expensive market and am using the same builder who is currently building our house to do this (not a 'garage builder'), but to expect to build an attached garage with finished space and utilities (which is way more complicated) for less than half of this seems highly unrealistic. That said I know nothing about the local Raleigh market.

I would guess you do need closer to $300K to do this, unless you cut all sorts of corners, in which case do you really want to do it?

Fantastic feedback, thank you sir.

Which parts of the quote should I be expecting to be so under-budgeted? Is that price in framing, foundation, trim, electrics?
The Gutters, Hvac, Flooring, painting, roof, etc all seem in line with prices I have gotten for repairs to my existing house (albeit over the course of 6 years so I know prices are always increasing).

 

[pembol]

Frankly, they all seem pretty low. But a few that really stand out are the foundation - $14K for the excavation, foundation and slab for 1500 sq ft seems really low. For comparison, we paid twice that for excavation, foundation and slab on our 1000 sqft build. Framing also seems low, our lumber package alone in almost the same as your entire framing cost. I don't see any line items for drywall, insulation, 12 doors, lighting, permits, engineering....

 

[Mikes61]

Frankly, they all seem pretty low. But a few that really stand out are the foundation - $14K for the excavation, foundation and slab for 1500 sq ft seems really low. For comparison, we paid twice that for excavation, foundation and slab on our 1000 sqft build. Framing also seems low, our lumber package alone in almost the same as your entire framing cost. I don't see any line items for drywall, insulation, 12 doors, lighting, permits, engineering....

To pour my 920 sq ft slab and footings was $15,000 for just the cement and guys to do it. Three trucks and three drivers, three finishers, a cement pump and operator, **** $15,000 gone.

Keep in mind the excavation, building the forms, sand, and rebar was not included in that price.

 

[manwithtools]

I sure wish it was a requirement to provide your location to join this forum. Folks quoting prices has no bearing what so ever without location relevance.
SMH.

 

[Redneckvtek]

I sure wish it was a requirement to provide your location to join this forum. Folks quoting prices has no bearing what so ever without location relevance.
SMH.

Every post in this thread discussing costs has listed a location.

 

[CombatNinja]

OP directly stated it was Raleigh metro area outside the city limits. Two or three subsequent posts have referenced the same. I sure wish it was a 'requirement' to read the thread in order to post in it.

 

[manwithtools]

@CombatNinja and @Redneckvtek I did read the thread thank you. The OP stated his location and has it in his profile - thank you. One post said CA, where in CA? San Fran vs Fresno is a big difference. @pembol stated very expensive market - where is this?

It's just so much easier to look at the users avatar (and location under it) and not have to scroll up and down through the thread to find the one post that quasi shows their location.

Rant off.

 

[CombatNinja]

The only location that matters is the OP's. Everything else is just a data point with no bearing on his situation. I've never understood the desire for everyone to pile on these threads with "I paid 'X dollars' 7 years ago in a city 3000 miles from you". What does that illuminate? New construction in his area goes for $250/sq ft on the low end, so he should be therefore very skeptical of a quote at $50 per.

 

[Rusted Nut]

These are the questions I have so far (for the contractor, I will send him an email after thinking on it and soliciting feedback):
1. Insulation and Drywall for upstairs - is this budgeted, and if so which line item?
2. Concrete - is the garage floor concrete included in the "hardscape" line item?
3. Doors - What is included in the garage door portion - just the doors, or also openers, and if so which ones? I will need "hi-rise" tracks to allow for future lift install.
4. Windows - what windows are included in this line item?
5. Electrical - Can you please break this into "new electric for construction" and "upgrade electric - 200 amp to 400 amp upgrade" items?


Questions for the hive mind:
Shingles - are these decent shingles? I don't need fancy, but I would like to buy something that will last another 25+ years. The plan is to have the contractor do both the new building and my existing house (2200 sq ft) so it matches.
Should I try to get the 400a upgrade done separate - IE before breaking ground on the building? I have already reached out to my electric utility so I should hear back early this week.

What else do I need to be asking?

- Is the budget reasonable for what I am asking or am I way off?
- Is the quote reasonable - meaning in line for the scope of work. If its too good to be true I should be scared. If its too high (I dont think it is), I should keep shopping.

Thanks again,
Chris

If you are asking what is included in a quote, then you have not documented the scope of work properly. You need to make sure the the documents you give out for quotes have everything you want clearly included. The construction documents should have plans, specifications, descriptions, etc….; everything you expect to be included needs to be in writing somewhere in the docs. This is how folks get into trouble.

 

[Jrad235]

Based on what I read, I'm fairly certain it does NOT include drywall, any doors, or a concrete floor. The specific garage doors you choose will change the price but you aren't getting 3 roll-up sectional garage doors for less than $9000, especially with high-lift track and operators. Basically this is shell cost + a little extra.

 

[Copymutt]

Will do. I am pending the electrical utility engineer to contact me to discuss the 400A upgrade. I don't mind doing this separate, Its coming either way with electric vehicle charging.



Yes, 1472+800 = 2272 sqft. 1472 unfinished, 800 finished. That comes out to spot on $50/sqft if you take out 10k for roofing the existing house.


Care to elaborate? Am I missing something obvious? I have a utility sink in the existing garage along with an ice maker.

Didn’t understand a separate garage. I guess plumbing would depend on how much time you spend in the new build & proximity to garage.

 

[backupbeeper]

We just are finishing up a 3 car garage with a room above

Our existing house had 150 amp panel

We had a new 300 amp service to the new garage, new 300 amp meter base and two 150 disconnects

One disco feeds the existing hoise and one feeds the new garage

We paid $9k for the the meter base and disconnects and breaker panel and five lights and five outlets in the garage and two lights and five outlets in the storage room above , and the entrance cable to the existing panel in the house , and a new panel on the house .

We paid a contractor for the shell and finishing it ourselves .

We did pay someone $8k to do the Sheetrock in the room above .

I dont have all the numbers but

tree removal was $5k
Grading was $8k
Hvac was $8k
The flipping stairs and landing to the second story was $7k

Concrete was expensive but that didn’t matter after while because when we did it there was a a SIX week wait to get the concrete

And if it rained on your appointment day , you’re back at the bottom of the list waiting another six weeks

And it rained three times in a row .

Took us 20 weeks to get the footings poured

Then because of the odd angles on our design , the garage has two bays and the third bay the building turns 23 degrees , like a V to make it for on our lot .

So the roof truss company wouldn’t build the trusses until the walls were up so they could measure the walls .

Took five weeks to build the trusses ,
Then the night before they were delivering them , their warehouse burns .

So we have to find another truss company .






For yours $16k seems high for the roof but that may be the decking too ?

That’s high for just the shingles.

You’re gonnna need to talk to some more contractors

Our problem was finding a contractor willing to do such a small job

Most of them are building gigantic 6000 SF houses because thats where the money is .


Anyhoo , if you start the clock when we first talked to an architect, we are 36 months into this project and almost finished

And the architect was a whole nother fight

He kept doing plans with poles in the garage and I kept telling him there will no NO poles in my garage .

“Well if you don’t do poles then you have to do an I beam .”

“ then do an I beam , you’re the architect, we are paying you to figure it out “

 

[Redneckvtek]

We paid $9k for the the meter base and disconnects and breaker panel and five lights and five outlets in the garage and two lights and five outlets in the storage room above , and the entrance cable to the existing panel in the house , and a new panel on the house .



We did pay someone $8k to do the Sheetrock in the room above .


tree removal was $5k
Grading was $8k
Hvac was $8k
The flipping stairs and landing to the second story was $7k

For yours $16k seems high for the roof but that may be the decking too ?


You’re gonnna need to talk to some more contractors

What location for these prices? Are you in raleigh?

I am nervous about this contractor since everyone says its too low.
On the other hand, I have two quotes for this now in the 130-150k range which is still <$75sqft

 

[Hank11]

The quote is sort of nebulous because your specifications are nebulous. Asking for as much unfinished as he can so you can do them later opens a huge can of worms and lots of room for things to go wrong. Your quoted pricing is already over your stated budget. Don’t expect it to get cheaper as you go.

If you want to get this back on or under budget its time to rethink lots of your wants. Drop the lean to, roof only the addition with shingles that are acceptable. Firewall the parts that have to be done to stand inspection. Ask an electrical contractor for a hard quote for the new service. A GC is gonna throw out a big number on this to be sure he makes out on it.

 

[manwithtools]

What location for these prices? Are you in raleigh?

Now do you see my point in post #17?

 

[Redneckvtek]

Now do you see my point in post #17?

Yeah the irony didn’t escape me, I feel like a bit of a dolt for sure.

 

[pembol]

I think you have you answer. The quotes that you have are all above your budget + contingency, and they are laking both details and major line items - so they are pretty much guaranteed to go up.

Our entire community is rebuilding right now, and watching the sagas of folks who under-budgeted (or over specified) and are running out of funds before completion is one of the most demoralizing experiences. You want to make absolutely sure your project is within your budget and you have a healthy contingency.

 

[Redneckvtek]

Yep, Thanks everyone.

Based on this feedback I have gone direct to a engineering firm and asked to generate a set of plans.
They are saying $400 for a site visit and then they will give me a price to develop the plans, Seems pretty reasonable so I will move forward.

Hopefully I can start a thread in the future with some work happening.

 

[CombatNinja]

Good call. It will be money well spent whatever direction you take.

 

[backupbeeper]

What location for these prices? Are you in raleigh?

I am nervous about this contractor since everyone says its too low.
On the other hand, I have two quotes for this now in the 130-150k range which is still <$75sqft

Atlanta

 

[mrbill55]

These are the questions I have so far (for the contractor, I will send him an email after thinking on it and soliciting feedback):
1. Insulation and Drywall for upstairs - is this budgeted, and if so which line item?
2. Concrete - is the garage floor concrete included in the "hardscape" line item?
3. Doors - What is included in the garage door portion - just the doors, or also openers, and if so which ones? I will need "hi-rise" tracks to allow for future lift install.
4. Windows - what windows are included in this line item?
5. Electrical - Can you please break this into "new electric for construction" and "upgrade electric - 200 amp to 400 amp upgrade" items?


Questions for the hive mind:
Shingles - are these decent shingles? I don't need fancy, but I would like to buy something that will last another 25+ years. The plan is to have the contractor do both the new building and my existing house (2200 sq ft) so it matches.
Should I try to get the 400a upgrade done separate - IE before breaking ground on the building? I have already reached out to my electric utility so I should hear back early this week.

What else do I need to be asking?

- Is the budget reasonable for what I am asking or am I way off?
- Is the quote reasonable - meaning in line for the scope of work. If its too good to be true I should be scared. If its too high (I dont think it is), I should keep shopping.

Thanks again,
Chris

Chris,

I'm just wrapping up a garage and house renovation a few hours south of you (see link in sig for details), the first thing I'll tell you is a simple one, if it is not spelled out in the contract (IE: drywall, concrete floor for the garage, number of lights, electrical fixtures, insulation, etc), then it is not included. A competent building contractor will list it all, right down to the number of interior/exterior lights, type of lights, garage doors, type of garage doors, etc and so forth. Your family attorney will tell you the same thing, if it's not in writing in the original contract, then anything you want added will be a change order that can drive your costs skywards. Honestly, I'd say you are light by 20-40K, maybe more, and again, that is with just what you posted in your opening remarks,
Now, with that said, I bundled the garage addition into the small living space bump out, and major gut of the interior, it did bring my costs down considerably for the garage, so much so, that I had them add an additional 10' in to the middle of my 30x40 original garage (inside joke with the builder, who said it would be cheaper to add it in the middle, then at either end ), and have them sheetrock and insulate. In your case, while I know you want to save money, you might consider at least the wiring, insulation, and sheetrock. While I've done my own in the past to save money, at 60 years old, and given the 10 foot ceilings, I felt it was better to bite the bullet and let them do the finish work there. You want to save money, leave the paint work and laminate floor out of the quote, as those are things that are far easier for you to accomplish without working yourself to the bone.

Further down, I see you are getting a site plan done, at $400 for the initial walk through, you can't go wrong. While they are there, see if they have anyone else they work with that you might want to consider. Do not let them know you already have a general quote for the work, let them do their job, review everything in front of you, reconfigure your finances to have a 20% safety factor (better to figure too much money than not enough and get caught with your pants down) over and above anything you are quoted.

As always, any questions, do not hesitate to ask them, as there are plenty of knowledgeable people on the forum who will not hesitate to assist.


Hope you find this eye opening and helpful at the same time.


Bill S.

PS: Our contract was quite detailed, yet over the course of the last 6 or so months, we have logged no less than 25 change orders, thankfully kept well below that 20% I mentioned above.

 

[greenjeepers]

Boy, I am glad I had my 36' x 24' detached garage built 10 years ago. I ended up being the GC, upgraded the house electrical to 200 amps from 90 amps. separate 100 amps to the garage. Ended up getting concrete done and having the shell built, then I added the roofing felt and shingles, installed the electrical, and the garage doors. Ended up being about $20k in Phoenix.

Good luck on the build.

 

[CombatNinja]

Yep, those were the good 'ol days back in the mid teens. The kick in the nuts for a lot of us is that we were too young or too new in our careers/adult life to afford a nice shop then. Now we're middle-aged, make three times the money and we still can't afford a nice shop now. Inflation has really killed a lot of dreams.

 

[Redneckvtek]

Chris,

I'm just wrapping up a garage and house renovation a few hours south of you (see link in sig for details), the first thing I'll tell you is a simple one, if it is not spelled out in the contract (IE: drywall, concrete floor for the garage, number of lights, electrical fixtures, insulation, etc), then it is not included. A competent building contractor will list it all, right down to the number of interior/exterior lights, type of lights, garage doors, type of garage doors, etc and so forth. Your family attorney will tell you the same thing, if it's not in writing in the original contract, then anything you want added will be a change order that can drive your costs skywards. Honestly, I'd say you are light by 20-40K, maybe more, and again, that is with just what you posted in your opening remarks,
Now, with that said, I bundled the garage addition into the small living space bump out, and major gut of the interior, it did bring my costs down considerably for the garage, so much so, that I had them add an additional 10' in to the middle of my 30x40 original garage (inside joke with the builder, who said it would be cheaper to add it in the middle, then at either end ), and have them sheetrock and insulate. In your case, while I know you want to save money, you might consider at least the wiring, insulation, and sheetrock. While I've done my own in the past to save money, at 60 years old, and given the 10 foot ceilings, I felt it was better to bite the bullet and let them do the finish work there. You want to save money, leave the paint work and laminate floor out of the quote, as those are things that are far easier for you to accomplish without working yourself to the bone.

Further down, I see you are getting a site plan done, at $400 for the initial walk through, you can't go wrong. While they are there, see if they have anyone else they work with that you might want to consider. Do not let them know you already have a general quote for the work, let them do their job, review everything in front of you, reconfigure your finances to have a 20% safety factor (better to figure too much money than not enough and get caught with your pants down) over and above anything you are quoted.

As always, any questions, do not hesitate to ask them, as there are plenty of knowledgeable people on the forum who will not hesitate to assist.


Hope you find this eye opening and helpful at the same time.


Bill S.

PS: Our contract was quite detailed, yet over the course of the last 6 or so months, we have logged no less than 25 change orders, thankfully kept well below that 20% I mentioned above.

Thanks for the words of wisdom Mr. Bill.

 

[Redneckvtek]

The engineer came back today, $5500 for the plans. I'm pulling the trigger unless that seems unreasonable for some reason.