sanity check - GhostShield 4500 & 8510

[skipdup]

I have a 1,600 sqft shop that's about 6 months old. Has been used for storage, but little else. A couple drops of oil on it (1/2 dollar sized) and some rust stains from nails (happened during construction) - other than that, it's pristine.

Shop will be used for general auto stuff, maybe woodworking in the future.

I have enough stuff/equipment in it now that emptying it completely will be very difficult, if not impossible... especially a hobby sized old mill & lathe. However, I can move everything to 1/3 of the shop, then move it over when ready.

I originally wanted non-decorative, as I really like the look of raw concrete. I had all but settled on densifying with 4500 and then sealing with 8510. It seems that'd give me all the protection I need and keep the floor looking nice & tidy. That it's lower cost and easy to apply sealed it. pun intended.

Then I starting seeing the "shiny" concrete, which I really, really like.

So, the sanity check part... If I really, really don't want to mess with etching the floor, that takes anything "shiny" off the table, right?

Also, would it be acceptable to densify 2/3 or 1/2 the shop, let it dry, move equipment to the densified portion, densify the other part, let it cure for the week, then seal in the same manner as densifying?

Am I missing anything? Any other words of wisdom? I'm really hoping for a floor that will stay nice for a good long time.

Many thanks!
Skip

 

[naturalgas]

I was in the same situation so I rented a storage pod and emptied garage into that. I had it for the better part of two months and cleaned ,coated my slab and also got my insulation and blue board plastering done. Cost me an extra five hundred bucks but It worked out good for me.


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[rubberrodder]

After being in my garage for about a year, I spilled some of that "Future-Floor wax" acrylic stuff on the unsealed floor. I liked the way it brought out some different light browns and tans on the spot it ended up on. So I found some more of it( A full case at a garage sale of all places. )and sponge mopped it on. It was watery enough to spread thin and easy and really made the floor look "kinda" vintage. It seems to act more as a sealer/clear stain than a varnish or paint. Anyway, spills wipe up easy and I like the look. how well its going to hold up remains to be seen.

 

[Garage Flooring]

So the densifier part you could, in theory get away with what you are looking to do. It is very very difficult on the 8510 because it will repel itself. In theory if you taped one side of a saw cut and you were real careful you could do it.

For a good clear coat you should etch or grind. 100% That said if it is power troweled and chemical resistance is not a huge thing (and maybe if it is) I would check with Scotty (Legacy Ind) in his HD40 application.

We do have both the Ghostshield products and the clear Polyrurea, so if that is the route you go, let me know

I have a 1,600 sqft shop that's about 6 months old. Has been used for storage, but little else. A couple drops of oil on it (1/2 dollar sized) and some rust stains from nails (happened during construction) - other than that, it's pristine.

Shop will be used for general auto stuff, maybe woodworking in the future.

I have enough stuff/equipment in it now that emptying it completely will be very difficult, if not impossible... especially a hobby sized old mill & lathe. However, I can move everything to 1/3 of the shop, then move it over when ready.

I originally wanted non-decorative, as I really like the look of raw concrete. I had all but settled on densifying with 4500 and then sealing with 8510. It seems that'd give me all the protection I need and keep the floor looking nice & tidy. That it's lower cost and easy to apply sealed it. pun intended.

Then I starting seeing the "shiny" concrete, which I really, really like.

So, the sanity check part... If I really, really don't want to mess with etching the floor, that takes anything "shiny" off the table, right?

Also, would it be acceptable to densify 2/3 or 1/2 the shop, let it dry, move equipment to the densified portion, densify the other part, let it cure for the week, then seal in the same manner as densifying?

Am I missing anything? Any other words of wisdom? I'm really hoping for a floor that will stay nice for a good long time.

Many thanks!
Skip

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi
If you are looking for something simple, no prep, and shiny, consider our SPGX clear coat. About the same price/sq ft as 4400/8510. Some photos below.

We carry both Ghostshield and SPGX.

https://armorpoxy.com/products/spgx-one-part-polyurea-coating/

 

[skipdup]

Hi
If you are looking for something simple, no prep, and shiny, consider our SPGX clear coat. About the same price/sq ft as 4400/8510. Some photos below.

We carry both Ghostshield and SPGX.

https://armorpoxy.com/products/spgx-one-part-polyurea-coating/

I thought you needed to acid etch before using SPGX. Was I mistaken?
I really like that shiny look.

Thanks all!

-Skip

 

[Armorpoxy]

SPGX can be applied without etching as long as the floor is not sealed or highly power troweled and absorbs drops of water. Pressure wash/clean well, let dry...then coat.

 

[skipdup]

Not having to etch would change everything.
I know it was power troweled. not sure how to tell if it was highly so.
I'll go out there late today and pour some water on it and see if I can gleem some info from the absorption rate.

Thanks so much!!

 

[Armorpoxy]

Take a water bottle and walk around and dribble drops of water on it, if they flatten out and absorb in fairly quickly you should be fine. If the drops sit there like bubbles and don't soak in then you need to prep.

 

[skipdup]

OK. I did the water test. The weather here today is very overcast with very light "misting" rain. Not sure if that matters.

It sure looks like the water did not bead and absorbed rather quickly when spread with my finger. I took a horrible video (too much coffee I guess). I can send off-line if it'd help.

The more I look at it, the more convinced I would need to do 2/3 of the shop and then 1/3 - if at all possible. Moving some of this stuff side-to-side is doable. Moving it out and "somewhere else", I don't even know where/how to do. The floor doesn't have cuts or expansion slots. But, I don't mind an artificial line on the right 1/3 (where the trailer lives).

If I needed to etch (even if it was an insurance policy to ensure extra good stick of the SPGX) it sure seems like Surface Gel Tek might be a better solution for me, being it a gel and I'd need to do one part at a time. Can that stuff come into contact with wood?

I think I reasonable understand the benefits of SPGX. I searched, but can't find... What are the "cons" and/or trade-offs to SPGX?

Thanks all,
Skip

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi,
SPGX us a superb hybrid one part easy to apply coating. It has better performance than urethanes against fluids and solvents. Con, it's not as thick as 100% solids epoxy but on a new floor that shouldn't matter. Also lower cost than 3 layer epoxy system. SPGX usually does not need any prep, and only a single coat.

 

[74nova350ss]

Hi,
SPGX us a superb hybrid one part easy to apply coating. It has better performance than urethanes against fluids and solvents. Con, it's not as thick as 100% solids epoxy but on a new floor that shouldn't matter. Also lower cost than 3 layer epoxy system. SPGX usually does not need any prep, and only a single coat.

Can damaged sections be easily repaired? Will the repaired section be obvious? What is the process for making repairs?

 

[rednorseman]

Armorpoxy, How does the durability compare to something like Hellfire? Understood that yours is clear, while Hellfire is light grey?

 

[rednorseman]

I have a 1600 sq ft shop as well, looking at the advantages of Hellfire vs putting a clearcoat directly on the concrete.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi
As a policy we don't comment on other company's products. We have full tech data available so you can make proper comparisons. All of our colors available are at the link below.

https://armorpoxy.com/products/spgx-one-part-polyurea-coating/

Thank you!

 

[skipdup]

I’ve changed my mind no less than 20 times. Seriously. It’s gotten ridiculous. Like I might need medication.

But, I keep coming back to spgx. I just really dig the look.

I noticed the tech sheet states 24 hour resistance to brake fluid is “unacceptable”. How long do you have to clean up brake fluid before damage? I have a bad track record with brake fluid...

Are repairs, if ever needed, very noticeable? Or do they blend well?

I still need to decide whether or not to an acid etch, or do a light grind with diamabrush, or just roll the dice and apply with just cleaning the floor. The concrete absorbs water, but I think I might be safer opening the pores. I think???

Thanks,
Skip

 

[Armorpoxy]

LOl we share your pain, we have lots of customers who can't decide!

If using SPGX in clear you wouldn't notice recoated areas. Pigmented probably since tint lots can vary so impossible to match exactly. Flecks, if used on pigmented help to hide repairs.

SPGX gives the look of polished concrete or sealed concrete in clear. As for brake fluid, what that means is that temporary 1-2 hour splash spill is fine, but leaving it on there can cause some possible staining. We haven't had any reports of brake fluid harming SPGX but the legal guys always like lots of disclaimers!

As for prep, normally SPGX doesn't need it but any job will be 'better' and help to reduce potential problems if you do some prep. Since you have to clean/power wash it at the minimum, why not just etch, it doesn't add much time or cost.

 

[skipdup]

... why not just etch, it doesn't add much time or cost.

For whatever reason, I kind of have an acid phobia. Maybe just need to put my big boy pants on...

There are a few very minor rough spots - just human error when troweling. I was thinking that maybe hitting it with the diamabrush would smooth those out and "maybe" give a more uniform look to the concrete???

I stated about 1,600 sqft. Interior is actually just under 1,500. So I'm planning on buying 9 gallons of SPGX and 4 ArmorGrips.

Any other advice or pointers for when I start - equipment/tools? technique? write-ups for dummies? Roller type/brand recommendation? etc??? I just don't know what I don't know.

Many thanks!
Skip

 

[Shea]

Hey Skip. If you want to prep via grinding, we have an article here about grinding concrete for a garage floor, shop, etc. It covers the use of the Diamabrush and a few other tips.

 

[skipdup]

Hey Skip. If you want to prep via grinding, we have an article here about grinding concrete for a garage floor, shop, etc. It covers the use of the Diamabrush and a few other tips.

Yes. I've read that article and many, many, many others.
Your site has been invaluable. Thank you!!!

Still weighing options. GelTek looks interesting.

Do the different prep techniques result in different looks once completed? Or, is it all just different ways to get to (essentially) the same result? It would seem to me that Diamabrush might make everything more uniform... but I base that on absolutely nothing.

Thanks again,
Skip

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, if using any grinding method or machine including DIAMABRUSH be careful of the diamond grit size as anything lower than a number 80 or so can leave swirl scratches.

Diamabrush only comes in two versions 25 or 100 so check when you rent what grit they come with if you use one. The caveat is that a #100 won't do much grinding as much less aggressive.

 

[skipdup]

Hi, if using any grinding method or machine including DIAMABRUSH be careful of the diamond grit size as anything lower than a number 80 or so can leave swirl scratches.

Diamabrush only comes in two versions 25 or 100 so check when you rent what grit they come with if you use one. The caveat is that a #100 won't do much grinding as much less aggressive.

Thanks. Will grinding look any different from acid etching? And will the 100 grit open the pores at all?

I don't think I need much, as the concrete seems to readily absorb water...

 

[Armorpoxy]

100 will open the pores a lot. But, it doesn't sound like you need to grind. Grinding if not done properly and if you are using clear so it wont hide mistakes, can cause finish issues.

 

[Shea]

Yes. I've read that article and many, many, many others.
Your site has been invaluable. Thank you!!!

Still weighing options. GelTek looks interesting.

Do the different prep techniques result in different looks once completed? Or, is it all just different ways to get to (essentially) the same result? It would seem to me that Diamabrush might make everything more uniform... but I base that on absolutely nothing.

Thanks again,
Skip

Yes, both grinding as well as etching will change the way the concrete currently looks. As ArmorPoxy stated, it's something to consider when you are applying a clear.

You don't have any control over how the floor will look when acid etching. It is all dependent on the strength of the acid solution and more importantly, how consistent the density of your concrete is at the surface. It's not uncommon for an acid etched surface to have varying degrees of light and dark spots, as well as areas that are more porous than others. You still get that raw concrete look that you like, it just changes somewhat.

Grinding can provide a more consistent look than acid etching, but it can introduce swirl marks as well as lighten the color of the concrete a little bit. Swirl marks are more noticeable with the more aggressive diamond grits that are used.

Concrete is kind of like snow flakes. No two slabs look identical. If you really dig the way it looks currently, then it sounds like you would be fine if you didn't do any prep other than cleaning according to ArmorPoxy. If you want to achieve the best adhesion possible, you can etch or grind knowing that it will slightly change the current look.

 

[skipdup]

Thanks Shea!
decisions, decisions. maybe i'll flip a coin.

 

[dodgepolara500]

Hi
If you are looking for something simple, no prep, and shiny, consider our SPGX clear coat. About the same price/sq ft as 4400/8510. Some photos below.

We carry both Ghostshield and SPGX.

https://armorpoxy.com/products/spgx-one-part-polyurea-coating/

Thanks for pointing this product out to us. I read the specs and see it comes in colors too.

-Does the colored product also have a high gloss finish?
-Is the smell very strong too? That is the biggest grief my wife has given me due to the smell as we have an attached garage.

Thanks

 

[Armorpoxy]

SPGX is a gloss finish. The fumes are what we would consider 'medium', the product has 250g/L of solvents which is not zero, nor in the 400-500 range like solvent based coatings.

We have not had any complaints though of high odor issues beyond what people think is tolerable.

Thank you.

 

[skipdup]

Well, I finally got the shop emptied. No one wants to play me at Tetris any time soon...

I was disappointed to find a lot more stains than I expected. I've been trying some different products, trying to determine what will clean the floor the easiest. Krud Kutter worked a little. Maybe.

Today I tried scrubbing in Oil Eater (on the oil stains) and then pressure washed (3000 psi/3GPM) the whole shop. And basically, you can't tell I touched it - other than the loose dirt being gone.

Vinegar mostly worked on the rust stains (from construction nails). But it was much harder than I anticipated.

I'm going to have to try something new for tire marks and oil stains. I'm really surprised the pressure washer didn't take the tire marks. Nor did scrubbing.

Trying to figure out next steps. I assume oil stains go deeper than diamabrush will remove?

- Skip

 

[DannyDan]

I always used kitty litter on oil stains. I pour it on stain, twist my foot on it for a minute, then let the litter sit for a couple hours or overnight.

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