Saw Guides

[JayL]

I'm trying to find ways to make my newly acquired 7 1/4 Circular Saw more easier to use if not useful. I'm a novice and would be grateful if some of our more experienced toolers here can chime in with some tips.

These are the tools I am currently looking at.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00926320000P?mv=rr

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00925781000P?mv=rr

thanks

 

[russlaferrera]

I use a "Speed Square" as a guide to cut l lumber 2X4, !X8 etc. You draw a line where you want to cut , then place the speed square at the end of the saw's base plate. This keeps the saw straight.

 

[Stuey]

I use "All in One" clamps. I bought the 36" size first and it's been pretty versatile.

 

[rsanter]

the first one is a waste IMO, just use a straight edge to cut against like a level, piece of angle iron, drywall square.

the second one can be usefull if you cut angles a bunch, otherwise lust use a framers square

bob

 

[JayL]

Which speed Square do you guys recommend then?

The All in One Clamp" looks sweet but the longest stuff I could place in my cargo box is only 26". Don't you think it is too short?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DYV3Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I tried cutting 3/4" plywood today. My craftsman saw was ok but I feel that a better blade than the stock one would be an improvement. Which circulr saw blades do you prefer mostly for cutting plywood.

Thanks a lot.

 

[64merc]

Which speed Square do you guys recommend then?

The All in One Clamp" looks sweet but the longest stuff I could place in my cargo box is only 26". Don't you think it is too short?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DYV3Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I tried cutting 3/4" plywood today. My craftsman saw was ok but I feel that a better blade than the stock one would be an improvement. Which circulr saw blades do you prefer mostly for cutting plywood.

Thanks a lot.

I'm no pro woodworker but when I was putting down some 3/4" subfloor I believe I used a 40 tooth carbide blade. Nothing fancy, just something I bought at Lowes. This should produce smooth enough cuts IMO.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I don't understand all this fancy ****. I use an 8' one. I gave it a special name...2x4. Mark your line on each end, +1.5" for the saw base, clamp the board down and go. What's the use of all this other stuff?

None of that **** will do 8' lengths that's shown.

Only one of them will do an angle, and then you have to hold it with one hand and hope you don't saw that hand off.

A 2x4 and two c clamps will cut any length, at any angle, and do it for $4.

 

[Mike F]

As a variation on the 2x4 method above, I ripped a 4" piece from a 4x8" sheet of plywood. I did this on a tablesaw, but you could use your newly purchased circular saw just as well. Put this piece (use the factory edge if you cut the plywood with the circular saw) on top of a sheet of 1/8" hardwood or masonite that is wider than the distance from the straight edge of the plywood to the blade, and nail the hardwood to the plywood. Now, put your circular saw base against the plywood (with the hardwood on the bottom), and make a cut. Now all you have to do is line up the edge of the hardwood with the line you want to cut and it will be dead on and straight. You can make these any length you want, and even add a short straight piece of plywood perpendicular to it to make a T-square. This method will give you a cut that is much straighter than the 2x4.

 

[Mike F]

While not exact, this is generally what I was trying to describe. You don't need the excess material to the left side of the saw. After you make the cut shown, you have your guide.

 

[wantedabiggergarage]

I use the Eurekazone system, but it is more then just a sawboard. If you only need a sawboard, I suggest googling that name for some simple how to's.

You need to decide how much your going to use it; home made for the few times, or a lot more money for something that could, replace a tablesaw for you.

 

[nissan_crawler]

As a variation on the 2x4 method above, I ripped a 4" piece from a 4x8" sheet of plywood. I did this on a tablesaw, but you could use your newly purchased circular saw just as well. Put this piece (use the factory edge if you cut the plywood with the circular saw) on top of a sheet of 1/8" hardwood or masonite that is wider than the distance from the straight edge of the plywood to the blade, and nail the hardwood to the plywood. Now, put your circular saw base against the plywood (with the hardwood on the bottom), and make a cut. Now all you have to do is line up the edge of the hardwood with the line you want to cut and it will be dead on and straight. You can make these any length you want, and even add a short straight piece of plywood perpendicular to it to make a T-square. This method will give you a cut that is much straighter than the 2x4.

How in the world does that make it any straighter? Either way you're following a board. I'll bet a month's pay I can do it just as straight with a 2x4.

P.S. A square is only as good as the material it's on, 90% of the time, you can do a straighter cut with a tape measure if you're relying on a factory edge for your square.

 

[JayL]

For now ( plywood cutting) it looks like it makes more horse sense to fabricate the guides first. This way I can tailor these to the lenghts I will exactly need. Purchase 2 Vise Grip Locking C-clamps with swivels and I have a kit.

Probably another option is to first buy one 2 x 4 from the sawmill and have it made as true as possible.

It's my first time to use a circular saw and this is really serious stuff. The power of the blade as it rotate gives very good motivation to think about Safety First..

Thanks so much for the replies. Sometimes going back to the basics is more efficient and cheaper. Anyway its just for some DIY tables and a few tool cabinets for the mean time.

 

[Stuey]

I'd go so far as to recommend a piece of 1x2 or 1x3. The boards in the hobby section at HD/Lowes are usually in much better condition than the 2x4s. Or you could always make a trip to the lumber yard.

NissanCrawler - thanks for reminding us about the basics, and how 'free' can be effective as well! =)

 

[64merc]

I'd go so far as to recommend a piece of 1x2 or 1x3. The boards in the hobby section at HD/Lowes are usually in much better condition than the 2x4s. Or you could always make a trip to the lumber yard.

NissanCrawler - thanks for reminding us about the basics, and how 'free' can be effective as well! =)

You're right, most of those 2x4s are not very straight. I hadn't thought of using a piece of the nice stuff.

 

[Mike F]

How in the world does that make it any straighter? Either way you're following a board. I'll bet a month's pay I can do it just as straight with a 2x4.

P.S. A square is only as good as the material it's on, 90% of the time, you can do a straighter cut with a tape measure if you're relying on a factory edge for your square.

It makes it straighter because a factory edge on a 4x8' sheet of plywood is much straighter than the edge on a 2x4" board. It is also much more stable over time and will not cup or twist. Since the hardwood is cut exactly parallel to the factory edge of the plywood, it will be straight. Hardwood is stable as well.

 

[nissan_crawler]

It makes it straighter because a factory edge on a 4x8' sheet of plywood is much straighter than the edge on a 2x4" board. It is also much more stable over time and will not cup or twist. Since the hardwood is cut exactly parallel to the factory edge of the plywood, it will be straight. Hardwood is stable as well.

Funny, I've seen plenty of 2x4's you can run a drywall square down and have them perfectly straight. Actually, I have a stack of about 300 of them that are like that.

Relying on any edge without checking is dumb, I've had plenty out of square sheets of plywood.

 

[Mike F]

Here ia a brief YouTube demo.

 

[Stuey]

Funny, I've seen plenty of 2x4's you can run a drywall square down and have them perfectly straight. Actually, I have a stack of about 300 of them that are like that.

Relying on any edge without checking is dumb, I've had plenty out of square sheets of plywood.

I'm guessing that your stock came from the lumber yard?

 

[russlaferrera]

I'd go so far as to recommend a piece of 1x2 or 1x3. The boards in the hobby section at HD/Lowes are usually in much better condition than the 2x4s. Or you could always make a trip to the lumber yard.

NissanCrawler - thanks for reminding us about the basics, and how 'free' can be effective as well! =)

IMO a better solution is to buy a 3/8 X 2 X 8ft. piece on metal and use it for a straight edge.

Using a speed square is great for cuts under 12 in. ie. framing!