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RivennHewn

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This site lists one good use I hadn’t thought of, secondary wood for furniture, so drawer sides, internal supports etc. you might want to slab it a bit thinner, like 3/4”, so you can get a usable quarter inch. Unfortunately, the poor workability may limit that too.

Sometimes ya got to learn to work with what you’re given.

Not sure if he’s selling any, but this guy is asking $1,200 per slab.
I just cut up about 10 of these.
 

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Jayman17

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There is another thread somewhere on GJ where someone uses live edge slabs of cottonwood for a counter top. I can’t remember the thread. I was surprised he used it because I’ve always heard bad things about cottonwood.
Riv, have you still been using the blade that hit the metal support?

Jay
 
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RivennHewn

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There is another thread somewhere on GJ where someone uses live edge slabs of cottonwood for a counter top. I can’t remember the thread. I was surprised he used it because I’ve always heard bad things about cottonwood.
Riv, have you still been using the blade that hit the metal support?

Jay
I changed the blade out shortly afterwards.
It was about done when I hit it.
I’m on my 3rd blade now, and it’s starting to slow down.

I’m going to go through my 10-pack pretty quickly.

I need to order another 10-pack, and find someone who can sharpen.

I’ll learn to sharpen, maybe next winter when I don’t want to go outside.
 
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RivennHewn

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Riven,
Have you priced carbide tipped blades? I wonder how the cost efficiency compares?
I have not.

I do know that I would be crying if I F’d up an expensive blade.

$14.50 per blade doesn’t cause me any pain if I lose one or two.
 

txlonghorn1989

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I have not.

I do know that I would be crying if I F’d up an expensive blade.

$14.50 per blade doesn’t cause me any pain if I lose one or two.

I recall Matt Cremona saying they were about twice the cost of his cheap blades but lasted quite a bit longer. But Matt never seemed to be deterred by hitting metal in the least.
 

Renegade1LI

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Great thread! a lot of reasons why I want one, I have lots of timber I could cut, but also could make a deal with a local guy with a mill. Must stop reading these threads.
 

LXCam

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Have you tried or considered a core sample bit Riv? That might save ya some unnecessary labor.
 
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RivennHewn

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Have you tried or considered a core sample bit Riv? That might save ya some unnecessary labor.
Funny you mention that.

Don’t know where it came from, or where it went, but we had one as kids. I’ve kinda half-Assed been looking for one.

They are kind of expensive new.

it was this style.


Range from 200 to 500 bucks😮
 
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LXCam

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I gotta a few of those 12” deep 2.5” coring bits that sucked balls and were tossed to the side from that project. You could sharpen up the leading edge and try and break your arm with a holehawg if ya want 😉
 

LXCam

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I’ve bought extra deep holes before but I’ll be damned if searching on my phone is helping my memory.

This place did pop up. Heck how deep do you really need to go?

 
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RivennHewn

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I’ve bought extra deep holes before but I’ll be damned if searching on my phone is helping my memory.

This place did pop up. Heck how deep do you really need to go?

Thanks Cam,

Not looking to drill holes. I’m looking to remove a core, so I can determine the quality of the wood inside.
 
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RivennHewn

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Ya I know. You can remove the plug from the hole saw.
If the log washes up on my ramp, I chainsaw the end. It’s when I go out looking that I’d like to core it. Don’t really want haul a cordless around in the woods. The log corer (actually called an Encrement Borer) is light and easy to carry.
 
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RivennHewn

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Let me outta here!
 

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RivennHewn

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I commit thee to the sea.


Although not unattractive, the moisture content and the stink tell me one Cottonwood log is enough for now. I sent the other half back to from whence it came.
 

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RivennHewn

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My halfhearted, quick and dirty sawbuck from ****** (but cheap) Cottonwood.

Need to manage the waste, before it gets outta hand.
 

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RivennHewn

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Stacked N stickered another little batch of slabs this afternoon.

Guessing this is Red Alder. But that’s just a guess.

Nice looking stuff no matter what it is.
 

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RivennHewn

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A little addition to the drying shed.

Doesn’t look like much. Only 65 CFM.

65CFM = 3900 CF per hour/93,600 CF per day/ 655,200 CF per week.

It will completely change the air in my shed 546 times per week.

I have roof and gable vents, so I put the fan down low to get cross flow.
 

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PCustoms

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@RivennHewn if it rains up there you might want to consider putting that fan inside (guessing you have wood stacked there) or making a roof.

I have one and they're not very weather resistant.
 

txlonghorn1989

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Am I the only one who needs an explanation? I assume you're fishing for logs but that doesn't make sense based on what I've seen on the thread thus far. :headscrat
 

RickP

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A little addition to the drying shed.

Doesn’t look like much. Only 65 CFM.

65CFM = 3900 CF per hour/93,600 CF per day/ 655,200 CF per week.

It will completely change the air in my shed 546 times per week.

I have roof and gable vents, so I put the fan down low to get cross flow.
That sounds about right for lowering the humidity a bit and preventing mold on the lumber. Your logs do come in pretty wet.

Thanks for the tip on using Anchorseal to prevent checking. So far I've just been using up old cans of latex paint on the ends, but the logs aren't ones that I really care about. Once I start cutting better lumber, I'm planning to switch to Anchorseal or something like that. I'm really liking your bandsaw -- it looks a heck of a lot easier to use than my Alaskan mill!
 
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RivennHewn

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Am I the only one who needs an explanation? I assume you're fishing for logs but that doesn't make sense based on what I've seen on the thread thus far. :headscrat
There are times when the logs float by, only 10-20 feet offshore. If I can get them with a grappling hook, it saves me from having to launch the boat. I have already snagged a few this way, but bent the little hook on the last one.
 
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RivennHewn

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That sounds about right for lowering the humidity a bit and preventing mold on the lumber. Your logs do come in pretty wet.

Thanks for the tip on using Anchorseal to prevent checking. So far I've just been using up old cans of latex paint on the ends, but the logs aren't ones that I really care about. Once I start cutting better lumber, I'm planning to switch to Anchorseal or something like that. I'm really liking your bandsaw -- it looks a heck of a lot easier to use than my Alaskan mill!
Having used both, I see pros and cons for each.
Much easier to cut a big log on the ground, where it lays with an Alaskan. Rigging a large, heavy log onto the mill takes effort.
 
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RivennHewn

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Fishing for kudos on the honey-do list?
That looks like an art project!

I'd bet any hook you use for logs will be made from rebar offcuts or something even beefier.
Went with 3/8 rebar on this. Didn’t want it to get too heavy to throw.
Hoping it doesn’t sink too fast to retrieve it if I miss the log. May have to add a float.
 

bulletpruf

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Have you thought about checking with the local tree service folks? Tell them you'll pay a modest amount for black walnut (or whatever grows up there that has some value)?

I guess you could also advertise to remove trees for free if they're the right species. Neighborhood trees are likely full of metal but you can mitigate that with your metal detector. You'd obviously need to have a few chainsaws and associated equipment and some know-how, but might be an option.
 
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RivennHewn

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If the channel gods get stingy, or try to trick me into taking junk logs(like they did today), I may have to actually work or pay for logs.

I like it when they come to me.
 

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RivennHewn

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When the little duct fan gives up, I think I’ll replace it with on of these:


Seems like a nice piece of hardware.
Anybody familiar with it?
 

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