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Sawzall Bearing Recommendation

KDoug

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Feb 26, 2018
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Hi, I'm still very new here, but I've been on Garage Journal daily for about a month now. So if this is the wrong place to post this let me know.

I was recently given a couple M18 Hackzalls that weren't working right, so I decided to see if I can fix them. It turns out, the only thing that is wrong is the bearings have gone bad. Milwaukee does not sell the individual bearings that go in the gearcase and on the motor shaft. I ended up having to put a new motor in because I couldn't get the bearing off the shaft. I was wondering if anybody could recommend a decent brand of bearings, I believe it is a 15x32x9.

Thanks
 
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KDoug

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rlitman

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Could you explain to the difference between the two Timken bearings, one is labeled C0 and the other C3.


C3 has a looser fit. You want C3. C0 can bind up as it warms up from use, and is only for slow speed applications.
 
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rlitman

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Ok thanks, is there anything else I should know before buying some bearings?

No ABEC rating means the bearing is probably ****.
Higher ABEC ratings make for smoother rolling, but higher than 3 is probably not worthwhile in your application (3 is the sweet spot for another reason I'll point out below)

On top of that, I see a lot of counterfeit ABEC ratings on Chinese bearings. The Chinese like to exaggerate (or make up) numbers to push their products, so if I see an ABEC 5 or 7 stamp on a no-name bearing, I can be fairly sure it's fake. My wife ordered some cheap fidget spinners from China, and on the first one I looked at, I noticed that both the central bearing and the three outer bearings all had ABEC 7 stamps. It spun nicely on the central bearing (it sounded rough, but spun because it was dry). But when I swapped out of the outer bearings into the center, it rolled about as well as a piece of hose spinning on a pencil. Now it comes as no surprise that they used this as a way to empty their reject bin, but even so, sending out the falsely marked parts leaves a bad taste in the mouth.

Because of that, I think it is less likely (though not impossible) that you'll see counterfeit ABEC 3 bearings. It would be like counterfeiting $1 bills.
 

James-W

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Timken bearings are very good, I have used them with no issues at all. NAPA has bearings as well, they may even have Timken bearings in some sizes. For some reason 6002 sounds like the same bearings I have in my compressor motor. I replaced them with Timken bearings about 18 months after I bought the compressor back in the early 80's. They have given me no issues at all since then.
 

pcmeiners

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Timekin, skf Nachi, C3. Stay away from Chinese/no name manufacturers, as they over harden their bearing , leading to breakage. Bearing need to be hardened on the outer surface, softer on the inside.
SKF for example will harden outside of a race to a depth of a (EG.) 1/16 of an inch, the inner depth is softer so the bearing will provide wear resistance on the outside but inside softer metal keeps it from fracturing. This type hardening requires special manufacturing procedures/machines Chinese do not invest in, as they get away without it selling at cheap prices.
On Ebay try not to buy old stock bearing, as the grease could be over 10 years old, grease does have a life expectancy, especially older technology greases.
 
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EOC_Jason

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OMG it goes on a sawzall, it's not like this is a high-rpm application like a turbo in a car...

Buy one, slap it in, use the tool already...
 
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KDoug

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OMG it goes on a sawzall, it's not like this is a high-rpm application like a turbo in a car...

Buy one, slap it in, use the tool already...

They failed within two years of buying the sawzall new because Milwaukee put crappy bearings in them. It also didn't help that we were hard on them, but I want something that'll last just a little longer.
 

pilotmotor

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Mar 13, 2018
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i wouldn't be afraid of buying an old bearing you can pop the rubber seal out and regrease very easily.
 
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