Saylor Beall 705 Pump Rebuild.....in the condo..

[DougWil]

pssssst...... don't tell the landlord.


OK, so I am working in Portland OR for the next year or so and a 10 hour drive away from my beloved and well equipped shop.

Can't help myself now that I am in the big city with Craigslist and lots of interesting things to buy, but I have no garage, or place to work on anything. So mostly I have been buying small tools, electric motors, etc that I can haul inside the rented condo, box up and haul home when I have the chance.

Then I saw this Saylor Beall 705.

Been wanting a real compressor and the price was right, $150.
Has a 3 phase Baldor Industrial mtr (my fav brand of mtr) and most of my machinery is 3 phase. I have a home brewed RPC and a few VFDs.

I have no storage here, no way to unload it, limited tools, etc....
Plus the condo I am renting, no working on your cars etc.

Hmmm... but I really want to go through the pump and haul it back complete and ready to go. I have plenty of projects back at my shop already and want to wrench on it now while I have free time.
Sooooo....... in was in the back of my truck already, car washed it first to get off the sludge and grime and I drove down to an industrial street on saturday and torn into it hewing it down to liftable pieces.
The crank seal looked like it has been leaking a long time.

Once I had the motor, flywheel/sheave, intercooler, head and cylinder off I removed the rest of the pump. Pretty easy to lift at that point.
Did find a problem, the 2nd stage wrist pin has been banging around in the piston and small end of the rod.



Luckily it didn't move out of the piston and chew on the cylinder walls.
The cylinders are perfect, so is the crank journals, rods and tapered roller bearings.



Other than gaskets and seals I need a new 2nd stage piston, wrist pin, and con rod bushing.
Will replace the rings, connecting rod bearings while I am there.
I usually would do the tapered bearings, because they don't cost much, but since I don't have access to a press and they are perfect I am not going to mess with them.

Been doing it right on the kitchen counter (with cardboard under, landlord should appreciate that, lol)



Scrubbing all the parts in the SS kitchen sink with lots of Dawn dish soap and scubby pads.

I will have a machine shop R & R the wrist pin bushing, ream to size and hone the cylinders.
Other than that, just put it back together.

Dunno about the tank. No petcock, that is a bad sign. Removed the plug and there is rock hard solid sediment sealing the drain hole. Wasn't able to poke a hole through the blockage either. Can't roll the tank over because it is so heavy and probably full of water.
It is only 30 gallons and I have a 120 gallon tank back home that I will probably mount it to. Probably scrap the tank and get it out of the back of my truck.

 

[finn]

Does the Saylor Beal have a dip tube and stand up drain like Champion uses?

It's hard to fathom no convenient drain on an industrial compressor.

 

[pamike]

Run a drill bit up through to knock the scale away and let the water drain..

 

[DougWil]

Does the Saylor Beal have a dip tube and stand up drain like Champion uses?

It's hard to fathom no convenient drain on an industrial compressor.

Nope. That is why it probably was rarely if ever drained.
But it will have a easy to use drain when I am done with it.

Run a drill bit up through to knock the scale away and let the water drain..

There is only 2" of clearance between the bottom of the tank and the truck bed.
Can't fit a drill in there.


Too heavy to lift w/o help or a hoist.

 

[pancho400cid]

As a GJ member I have to say nice score and interesting project!

As a landlord... I have to say YOU ****!

 

[matt_i]

I think I'd recommend using some sort of a prybar with a wood block fulcrum underneath to pierce the sludge & crust.

I assembled a 454 long block from the reman assembly to the finished engine waiting to be dropped into the truck, in my living room, when I lived in TN. I was living and working in TN with no shop there, the rented shop space and truck were in GA. Wanted to take advantage of the time. Having a tractor with front bucket to unload the semi truck and then place the engine on the engine stand in the front doorway was quite helpful! I bought an aqueous parts washer to cleanup all the covers, everything was hardwood floors and no evidence of the job when I sold the house

 

[kams1973]

That is a very old pump. The newer pumps have aluminum connecting rods, and the older pumps have cast iron. The Conrod bearings are not the same. Be sure to specify when you order new bearings. Also, there are variations on the front oil seal.

Disregard the link, not sure why my phone did that.

 

[DougWil]

I think the connecting rods are made of cast steel, not cast iron.

Anyway, where do you find OEM parts?

Besides the basics I need a new 2nd stage piston, and wrist pin.
Don't want to use clone parts and am willing to support SB on parts and keep them in business.

 

[bulletpruf]

Love it! When I was in Korea for 2 years and had almost no storage, I stocked up on tools that didn't take much room.



Or I bought tools that I had shipped to a buddy's house for him to store for me...



And I rebuilt the transfer case to my 99 Yukon on my office. I had an understanding boss.



And re-installed it in the parking lot in front of our apt. Freezing rain and all.