Saylor Beall VT-735-80 Air Compressor
- Thread starter HaroRider
- Start date
dnschmidt
Well-known member
Your OK except for heavily used die grinders, pro-level paint guns and sanders used seriously and sandblasting. That HP rating is total ******** as a 7 1/2 HP compressor should put out well over 20 SCFM easily. My five horse two-stage Quincy does 17 SCFM so with an additional two HP you should be getting more air if that HP rating was accurate which I assure you it isn't. You have enough of air to use just about any tool for a couple of minutes but your not going to be able to paint a complete car with a SATA gun or sand using a Dynabrade sander for more than five minutes before you're going to have to wait for the compressor. There are only two sizes of air compressors HUGE and not big enough. I wish I had a true 7 1/2HP unit and even having what everybody thinks is a big Quincy I still would like more.
Drkuhar
Well-known member
yes absolutely. I have a 60 gal twin cylinder single stage and the only thing it will not keep up with is my sandblast cabinet. it runs my palm sanders, hvlp paint guns, cutoff wheels and angle grinders no problem
willy3486
Well-known member
Don't get the cheaper one that has only one piston with the aluminum pump. I got one years ago and it was great at first. The piston has a leather like ring to seal it. After a year or so that piece would wear off the piston and I would have to replace it. After it going out about 3 times I got one of the Harbor Freight pumps and put a motor on it. The tank was in good shape so I put that pump and another motor on it. The pump is a lot quieter and pumps up faster.
good used? $500? I would say yes
the 4 cyl pumps are a grand to buy separate
I have a dewalt/emglo 4 cyl pump that I bought for $25 on clearance as it was missing the 1/4LH screw to hold the flywheel on.
of course it all depends on local markets, how much use/abuse/maintenance it's had
the 4 cyl pumps are a grand to buy separate
I have a dewalt/emglo 4 cyl pump that I bought for $25 on clearance as it was missing the 1/4LH screw to hold the flywheel on.
of course it all depends on local markets, how much use/abuse/maintenance it's had
I would get a good look at the motor and see what the amp draw is on 240 volt, my bet is is about 15 amps and the HP will says SPL. In reality maybe a 3 or 4 HP compressor. Also most larger HP motors are 7-1/2 HP, not 7 HP so that makes me suspect of the honest HP.
If it is really 7 HP it will draw around 30-35 amps. just be sure of what you are getting! If the motor actually draws 30-35 amps is should be worth $500. If the motor draws 15 amps, it is worth maybe half of that.
Will to work for a home shop? Sure it will, but it might not keep up with high CFM air tools like a random orbit sander or die grinder.
CGT80
Well-known member
17-20 cfm is very comfortable for a single pro user or serious home use. Motors have also gotten more efficient over the years, on top of the misleading HP numbers. My 5 hp 213 frame baldor motor is 28.5 amps nameplate and the new ones are 23 or 24 amps. The new baldor 7.5hp motors use the same power as my old 5hp. You will want at least a real 5hp compressor, which is 22+ amps and 17 cfm at 175psi.
My pump is rated 17.3 cfm at 175 psi. It might be a hair faster than the 800 rpm that rating is for. When I calculated cfm based on tank fill times, I got 20 cfm. 2 stage is better because of the higher pressure. If you get a single stage the might shut off at 125psi, it won't start until 95 psi. If your tool needs 90 (while the air is flowing, vs. measured with the tool stopped) it doesn't leave any extra pressure. Hoses, regulators, filters, fittings, etc. will reduce pressure and flow.
My blast cabinet has a scatblast 20-25 cfm gun and tip. With 3/8" hoses, high flow fitting, etc. it keeps my compressor running constantly. They have tips as small as 10 cfm, but blasting is much slower. Running a die grinder on my compressor is great as it keeps up fine. The cnc plasma table works great, but hypertherm says it takes about 7 cfm and it cycles the compressor every 3-6 minutes on an 80 gallon tank and the switch is set to shut off at 170 psi and on at 135 psi. This keeps the pressure above 100 psi after the hoses and filters.
Anything less than a real 5hp 17 cfm is going to be a waiting game or slow work with smaller tools or restricted hoses. I would love to have a 7.5hp setup or larger, but it isn't really needed since I do this stuff part time in my home shop. The most demanding use of my compressor is blasting for a couple hours or plasma cutting for a few hours. With the modifications to my blast cabinet and the right media, it goes quickly, but I am usually doing small parts or prepping fabricated parts for powder coating.
My pump is rated 17.3 cfm at 175 psi. It might be a hair faster than the 800 rpm that rating is for. When I calculated cfm based on tank fill times, I got 20 cfm. 2 stage is better because of the higher pressure. If you get a single stage the might shut off at 125psi, it won't start until 95 psi. If your tool needs 90 (while the air is flowing, vs. measured with the tool stopped) it doesn't leave any extra pressure. Hoses, regulators, filters, fittings, etc. will reduce pressure and flow.
My blast cabinet has a scatblast 20-25 cfm gun and tip. With 3/8" hoses, high flow fitting, etc. it keeps my compressor running constantly. They have tips as small as 10 cfm, but blasting is much slower. Running a die grinder on my compressor is great as it keeps up fine. The cnc plasma table works great, but hypertherm says it takes about 7 cfm and it cycles the compressor every 3-6 minutes on an 80 gallon tank and the switch is set to shut off at 170 psi and on at 135 psi. This keeps the pressure above 100 psi after the hoses and filters.
Anything less than a real 5hp 17 cfm is going to be a waiting game or slow work with smaller tools or restricted hoses. I would love to have a 7.5hp setup or larger, but it isn't really needed since I do this stuff part time in my home shop. The most demanding use of my compressor is blasting for a couple hours or plasma cutting for a few hours. With the modifications to my blast cabinet and the right media, it goes quickly, but I am usually doing small parts or prepping fabricated parts for powder coating.
lbhsbz
Well-known member
A 5hp 80 gallon will work fine in a home shop with occasional blasting....
It will run a lot, or all the time while blasting. I typically let mine take a rest after 20 minutes or so until the tank cools off. If you have any sort of cooler/drier, things will be easier
It will run a lot, or all the time while blasting. I typically let mine take a rest after 20 minutes or so until the tank cools off. If you have any sort of cooler/drier, things will be easier
Im thinking of picking up a Saylor Beall VT-735-80 gallon. Its the spalsh lubricated model for $800. Will this be enough CFM for my needs? I am getting mixed estimates on the CFM. Some say 17CFM @ 175 psi. Saylor Beall says 23 CFM @ 175 psi.
Thanks, Tom
Thanks, Tom
redmondjp
Well-known member
If it can be demonstrated to run, has a single-phase motor, the pump oil looks clean (not like a mocha), and the tank drains out just water and not mocha; and from zero psi at startup, the pump is quiet (without any pressure against the piston with zero pressure in the tank, if you have a worn rod or wrist pin bearing, you will hear it at startup until the pressure increases to 25psi or so), that is a great deal and I would grab it! It will meet your needs just fine.
If it has a 3-phase motor, and/or if it cannot be shown to run, you are taking a bit of a chance at that price. I picked up a similar compressor a couple of years ago for my brother for $300 with a 3-phase motor on it (was horizontal tank which is less desirable for small home shops) and it is working perfectly with a single-phase motor swapped onto it.
Ok, thanks. It is single phase 5hp Dayton motor. According to the serial number it looks like it might have been built on 5/31/1996 (Not Sure if thats what that means on info plate) I took a look at it, the oil wasn't golden clear. It started up and had no unusual noise. The main issue I saw was there was some oil in the tank when I bled out the air. Should I not buy it based on this?
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Ing3018
Well-known member
You should see around 17.3 CFM at 175 psi. More at lower pressures. That is what I have measured on mine, even running through a cooler located between pump and tank.
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