To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

School me; Cabinet Staining screw up?

wfopete

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
501
Location
Somewhere North of Dover, AR
I made some cabinet doors out of birch plywood. After sanding with 220 grit, wiping down with a tack cloth I applied 2 coats (with a new high end brush)of Cabot oil based natural stain over a 48 hrs period. I did not use a conditioner prior to applying the stain. After it dried the finished seem rougher than when I started. Is this what caused the roughness? Now what?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

koditten

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
5,528
Location
Midland, Michigan
Did you stain, then finish with varnish or polyurthane? To get a smooth finish you need to fine sand between polyurthane coats. The more the better.

I have just started using a water based polyurthane, this stuff is awsome. The final outcome is an extreamly hard finnish. I really will find it hard to go back to conventional polyurthanes. It sprays out of a paint gun even better.
 
OP
W

wfopete

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
501
Location
Somewhere North of Dover, AR
Did you stain, then finish with varnish or polyurthane? To get a smooth finish you need to fine sand between polyurthane coats. The more the better.

I have just started using a water based polyurthane, this stuff is awsome. The final outcome is an extreamly hard finnish. I really will find it hard to go back to conventional polyurthanes. It sprays out of a paint gun even better.
I have not done anything since appying the stain.
 

Hmrhead

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2010
Messages
243
Location
Rochester, MI
Sounds like the grain raised. Get some 000 or 0000 steel wool, or some 600 grit sand paper, and go over the doors and knock down the grain. I would opt for the steel wool. If opting for the sand paper just scuff lightly. Tack rag it again. This should bring the finish back to where you started. If you like the results then apply a couple of coats of poly finish, I prefer a matte or semi gloss finish, does'nt show finger prints as easy. Use the steel wool inbetween coats of poly. Make sure you apply the finish with the grain, I always apply the finish in one direction.
 

Hmrhead

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2010
Messages
243
Location
Rochester, MI
I use a high end bristle brush, It's so old I can read the name. It's a natural hair brush, can't remember what kind of animal it came from, paid like $25-30.00 for it 10 years ago. Go to a paint supply store, Sherwin Williams, Ben. Moore, etc. not a big box store. Tell them what kind of finish you are putting down and what they recommend for the best finish.
 

koditten

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
5,528
Location
Midland, Michigan
Depends how big of flat areas you have to do. The foam rollers work quite well if all surfaces are flat.

Still can't beat a sprayed finnish. As I said before, the more coats of finish that you apply the better.

I like to use a square orbital palm sander (electric) with 400 grit paper and lightly sand down the rough spots (raised grain) make sure that you run your hand over the surface before and after you sand. You will be able tell the difference right away.

By the way, I have never used the conditioner that you speak of. Just multiple coats.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ghnl

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
1,372
Location
Mebane, NC
If you are planning to use water-based finishes (I like them, too) I would suggest avoiding the use of steel wool. It could leave rust stains. Use a Scotchbrite type product.

Water-based polyurethanes will also raise the grain (even after sanding the wood with very fine paper) and thus need the first &/or second coats to be smoothed (again I use the Scotchbrite type stuff) but the subsequent coats will level out nicely. I use foam brushes.
 

MoonRise

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,031
Location
NJ
Conditioner usually does not matter regarding grain-raising.

Conditioner is usually used to help make/let the stain apply 'evenly' for woods with absorbtion differences between early-vs-latewood or end-grain vs face/long grain. Almost necessary for such woods as pine, where there is a BIG difference in the wood grain and stain absorbtion and thus tends towards blotchiness.

But you say you used an oil-based stain. Those usually don't have issues with grain-raising, as grain-raising is more of a problem with water-based products.

You say you applied two coats of an oil-based stain with a brush. Did you rub-off the 'excess' stain after you applied each coat but after it soaked in as desired but before the stain dried?

If not, you probably have a layer of dried stain just glopped onto the surface of the wood. Fix is to resand the wood to get to the desired smoothness and then reapply stain (apply, let soak in, rub/buff off).

For an oil-based stain or varnish, you typically do NOT use a foam brush, as the petroleum-based solvents in the oil-based product usually are not compatible with foam brushes. Oil-based products are usually applied with a bristle brush (solvents don't really bother the natural hair fibers/bristles).

As I said, usually with stains (oil or water-based), apply (brush or even just a clean lint-free rag), let set/absorb as desired, then rub/buff off. You do not want a layer of stain just glopped onto the surface of the wood.

(I'm thinking furniture/interior stains here, as exterior fence/siding stains are slightly different and usually apply more like a paint and are not rubbed/buffed off).

RTFM. :D
 

Mmfh

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
1,423
Location
Portland Oregon
Did you remove the excess stain after each coat? If you didn't you might take some mineral spirits and wipe it down lightly. If no luck get after it with sand paper again and restain.

Good Luck.
As usual with me, just trying to help.

Mm
 

Frank The Plumber

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
2,644
Location
Chicago.
This is normal, you wet the grain and raised it, like the one guy says use a 3 or 4 aught pad to clear the raising and then seal. Go to the product web site it will square you away.
 
OP
W

wfopete

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
501
Location
Somewhere North of Dover, AR
Thanks for the replies.

You know what bugs me is the dang application instructions are in such small print you can barely read them. Of course all the warnings and cautions are in nice big fonts.

They did say to wet the wood to raise the grain (which I did not do) so that's probably some of the issue. I applied the stain in very thin coats but I did not wipe it down with a rag afterwards. I watched several You Tube video's on the subject and most used a rag to apply the stain.

Sounds like within all these mistakes the problem resides. I guess I'll get out the sandpaper and start over with my new found knowledge.
 

ddawg16

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
21,005
Location
S. California
The guys pretty much covered it.....

Basic steps....

1. Sand
2. Clean
3. Apply Stain
4. Wipe
5. Let dry
6. Varnish
7. Light sand
8. Varnish
9. Light sand
10 Varnish
11 very light sand...
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom