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School me on 220 volt vs. 230 vs. 240

Jaguar Fan

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School me on 220 volt vs. 230 volt vs. 240 volt.


I read the specs for various items - and some say 220, others will say 115/230, still others 240 ... and probably others as well.

Applications range from a high pressure water pump to feed water to misters to a GE Advantium oven in a kitchen, to garage lift etc.

Would the rough wiring for these applications be the same? What's the deal with different outlet configurations?

Where could I read up on this?

Thanks in advance
 
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Alchymist

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220-230-240- just evolutionary changes to the same service. Latest is 240 - pretty much standard. All refer to the incoming voltage (single phase, residential and small commercial). As to the different outlets, these are configured for the different usages - depending on current and wire sizes. If you look close, each type has a different current rating. Designed so that the heavier current plugs won't fit in the smaller outlets, etc. Some 240 volt circuits require a neutral and some do'nt, and the plug configurations reflect this.

Anything rated at one voltage will work on the other so to speak, as they all refer to the same service. While the voltage doesn't change, the current to the devices vary, which determines wire sizes and appropriate plugs/receptacles.
 
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sberry

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The common ones that are found in residential that need 4 wire are electric dryer and some oven/ranges. Common power tools, welders, compressors. Wire breakers sized per machine. Many/most today fall into 30 and 50a in residential. Some things can be wired ahead of time, lifts 12 wire or better, small comps and welders 10. Personally I have a system to be able to modify the with the installation of new equipment or the desire to re-locate. I like to tailor circuits as needed.
 

sberry

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Lots of people seem to be terrified of moving an outlet or hydrant once its installed. I had an air hyd the other day from the original build, has been about useless or highly inconvenient since day one, I finally had it, scrounged up a 10 ft piece of pipe and move it to where it was really needed.
 

Charles (in GA)

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As noted, generally, 240v is the nominal voltage supplied by the Power Company nowdays for residential and light commercial. You should measure your incoming voltage to see what it is. Many appliances are rated at 230v, thus a motor that draws 15 amps at 230v as specified on the data plate, will draw slightly less (about 14.4amp) at the 240v your garage is supplied with. If the equipment is marked either 220v, 230v or 240v, it should work quite nicely on the 240v you most likely have in your garage and home.

Some equipment will specify a certain amp draw at a certain voltage at 60 hz and a different amp draw at 50 hz. If so, then you would ignore the 50 hz specs as there is none in the US. For reasons I do not understand, most of the rest of the world uses 50 hz while a few areas, such as the US, Canada, Saudia Arabia, and the western side of Japan, use 60 hz. To me, 60hz makes more sense, since there is 60 seconds in a minute, 60 minutes in an hour....... There used to be a few odd cycle power plants in the US, but I think they are all gone now. Buffalo, NY at one time had 25 hz power and there was a machine shop that used it for many years after everyone else had converted to 60 hz.

As a side to this, the reason for the power shortage in Japan right now, with the nuke plant out of service, is that Eastern Japan, where the plant is located, uses 100v 50 hz power, this is the most populated area of Japan. The Western region uses 115v 60 hz and as such, the grids are not and cannot be interconnected. There is talk of some industries moving their plants to the western region where there is sufficient power to operate them and avoid the rolling blackouts in the east.

If you have equipment marked 115/230v then it can be operated on either voltage, by using the correct plug on the cord, and rewiring the internals as specified on the data plate or diagram. This is common on electric motors, which will have diagrams on the data tag showing the internal wire connections and jumpers necessary for each situation. Generally you are better off sticking with the higher voltage if you can, but on things like my portable air compressor, I leave it set up at 115v so I can take it away from the shop to use it.

For giggles, here is a list of countries of the world and the type of power they use.

http://www.kropla.com/electric2.htm

This is a little better info

http://users.telenet.be/worldstandards/electricity.htm

Most of the rest of the world uses a single voltage for residential use. In the US and a few other places, we use a unique system where we have a center tap transformer, which supplies 240v out of the end taps, and the center tap is the neutral. If you get 240 from the two ends of the windings, then it stands to reason that you will get 120v if you go from either end tap to the center tap. Most countries would use transformers without the center tap, and all voltage supplied is at one voltage. No dual bus circuit breaker panels are needed. Everything coming out of the walls to run lights, the toaster, the alarm clock, everything is at the higher 220v (or whatever they use). Heavier duty appliances and equipment require heavier wiring and heavier plugs and receptacles, but the voltage remains the same.

Charles
 
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mebedave

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The common ones that are found in residential that need 4 wire are electric dryer and some oven/ranges. Common power tools, welders, compressors. Wire breakers sized per machine. Many/most today fall into 30 and 50a in residential. Some things can be wired ahead of time, lifts 12 wire or better, small comps and welders 10. Personally I have a system to be able to modify the with the installation of new equipment or the desire to re-locate. I like to tailor circuits as needed.

sberry how does your system work to be able to modify? I have a few pieces of equipment that's 220v so those are easy I'll wire for them before drywall but later when I run across a machine that's 220v my walls will be closed up.??
 

Drew_flux

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we have 240@50hz single phase and 450v 3 phase down under. lately i have been doing side work on campers/motorhomes. it alarms
me everytime i pull some ac wire how small the 110v stuff is,when compaired to what we put in for the Australian grid. keeps me busy though.
 

climbabout

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One more question -- what about 208 volt?

208v is generally found on 3 phase services which is used mostly for industrial and commercial applications. The system is identified as 3phase/4wire 120/208v. There would be 4 incoming conductors, 3 hot legs and a neutral. This system can also be used in multi family dwellings, i.e. apartments and condos. The incoming service is 3phase 4wire, which would go to a multi meter bank and then each meter to each individual dwelling would get a single phase 3wire service to it. The "hot legs" are designated A,B,C, and there would of course be a neutral. Each individual dwelling would get 2 hot legs and a neutral. Some dwellings would be fed with A-B, some B-C and some A-C so the load would be balanced over all 3 legs. Thats why most new appliances will be rated to work on 208v up to 240v. If you lived in one of these complexes, you would have 208v between the hot legs.
Hope this helps.
Tim
 

MBfreak

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50 or 60 Hz.
The one technical/economical advantage with 60 Hz over 50 Hz is that magnetic circuits ( transformers, motors , solenoids) can be designed with a smaller lamination core for the same service. This is certainly significant. Unfortunately, a slight increase in magnetization losses follows from the higher frequency, but the saving in material and weight is still good.
Systems that are weight critical sometimes operate on 400 Hz, exactly due to this reason
As to the statement on Saudi Arabia, the easteern and central parts has 60 Hz, while the western parts are 50 Hz. And , it is sandy:bounce:
And since at least 30 years the statetment : "the grids are not and cannot be interconnected" due to different nominal frequencies (50 vs 60 Hz) is incorrect.
There are many examples of very large power system interconnections between grids on different frequencies. The technology for this is called HVDC ( High Voltage Direct Current) Google it and enjoy, if you are electrically inclined:beer:


Sorry about these OT comments, but I am in the business and value facts.

Ola
 

sberry

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I have surface piping, a raceway could be done at one end or location so you could modify. Mu bud made wood molding that un screwed so he could get back in to the wall and a panel above the panel that was removable.
 
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