School me on Barometric Dampers

[Red Green]

Edit: this is in my detached shop. I am not using the furnace untill I fix the problem.

I have a waste oil furnace. This one from Northern.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_586_586

I have noticed recently that after running it for 8-10 hours a day the next day I wake up feeling like I have a hangover so I know that the furnace is not venting completely. I have Carbonmonoxide in the shop.

I called the company and asked what needs to be done and the guy on the phone told me that I need to open the Damper farther. Well I didn't tell him that we installed the furnace without one.

I guess my question is I have read a couple pages on the internet and don't understand how the thing works. If you have an opening in the chiminey how is it going to pull more air from the furnace?

I have a Magic heat installed in the chiminey also would you think I should install the damper above or below the Magic heat?

 

[redsky49]

Turn off this heater immediately!

Otherwise we will be reading about you in the obituaries.

Do not combine vents!

Vent exactly per manufacturer requirements!

Install CO monitor.

Get professional consultation.

Creative venting of combustion devices requires experience and knowledge. Not for the homeowner!

Seriously, turn it off!

As always, offered only as opinion

 

[Red Green]

I'm not in the shop today. I have it shut off I am going to the hardware store this afternoon to get a damper.

 

[Cast Iron Nuts]

Can you post the installation manual. Should be able to give you some direction after that.

 

[Red Green]

Can you post the installation manual. Should be able to give you some direction after that.

It says.

The Waste Oil Eliminator is designed specifically for use as stationary unit with a 6" , "Class A" all fuel approved chimney with Barometric Damper installed immediately above unit. If adequate drafting is a problem (.03 to .05" is recommended). An additional installation of a draft inducer is needed.

 

[tube_guy]

If your oil furnace is venting through a chimney with no barometric damper installed, installing a barometric damper isn't going to increase your draft. It will only decrease draft by allowing the chimney to draw air through the barometric damper instead of through your oil furnace.

You need to test the draft either over the fire in your furnace or at the breech of your furnace in the vent pipe to make sure it is within the furnace manufacturer's specs. That means you'll need a draft measuring instrument like a draft gauge or a manometer tube to make the measurement.

Just be careful, and definitely don't go to sleep with the furnace running. Shut it off entirely until the problem is fixed if you can.

 

[Professur]

how high above the roof is the chimney? The hot air shooting up the chimney is supposed to **** the smoke out of the burn chamber. A correctly set damper should enhance this by venturi effect. Bends or sideways legs in the chimney can cause stratification of the draw and let cold air slip down the chimney.

IMHO .. stop right there before you spend another dime, and get a professional (accredited) installer to look at what you've done ... before we see a post from a relative telling us you've assumed room temp.

 

[oldgoaly]

Listen to these guys! so I don't have to hollar at you!!!!! Make sure you don't bird, wasp or squirrel nest or any blockage in your flue.
is that magic heat one of those heat reclaimer that fits the flue? is maybe clogging you flue.
An additional installation of a draft inducer is needed, that will be the answer if there is no blockage or not properly installed
tt

 

[burleymike]

It is possible that the magic heat is cooling the flue gasses too much resulting in a poor draft. I would remove that first to see if it helps at all. You also need a CO alarm and it would be best to have a pro give you an assessment.

 

[Red Green]

It is possible that the magic heat is cooling the flue gasses too much resulting in a poor draft. I would remove that first to see if it helps at all. You also need a CO alarm and it would be best to have a pro give you an assessment.

That could be an issue. I am going to get a CO alarm and get the parts installed prior to calling a professional.

 

[danski0224]

Unless you have a manometer capable of measuring down to .01" of water column, you will not know if your barometric damper is installed properly, nor will you be able to adjust it.

A store bought CO detector is worthless. False sense of security. You need a low level CO detector.

You cannot evaluate the burn on the furnace without a combustion analyzer.

You need to find someone certified by NCI in combustion analysis and CO. I am.

Items installed in the flue that are extracting additional heat will cause problems unless they are part of the appliance.

The barometric damper controls air going through the furnace. There are things that need to be done to draft dilution hoods in order to properly install a barometric damper and have it work. The barometric needs a spill switch to shut the appliance off in the event of a downdraft.

Unless you have a $1000.00+ combustion analyzer and the training to use it, this is beyond safe DIY.

NCI = National Comfort Institute