School me on circular saws and blades.

[BigRed390]

Anybody care to give a FNG a quick rundown on tooth count vs type of work, size advantages ("standard" 7 1/4 vs larger sizes), thoughts on power ratings (corded only, don't want cordless.), etc? I'm about to build a workbench, and I'll be doing some deck work soon, so I'll be using it for plywood and 2x4's/2x6's, etc.

Some recommended brand names might be good too. I keep hearing that Freud is a top of the line blade, and that a good blade can make a cheaper saw cut pretty well. Any truth to this?

Thanks,

Red

 

[DHCrocks]

yes the blade does make all the difference in the world. sharp blades will cut quicker and cleaner without tearout or burning the wood. As far as tooth count the higher the finer the cut, the lower the faster but rougher. In general the highest tooth count is for laminates like flooring, melamine... Low tooth counts is for rough carpentry like ripping or cutting dimensional lumber (2x4s). For plywood a higher tooth count is better less tearout. Using a high tooth count on 2x4s will take a long time to get throught the wood. They make combination or all purpose blades that is a good compromise for general all around work I would try that in your situation. Freud blades are great, if you're on a budget The Ridgid ones from Homedepot are not bad and affordable.

 

[-B-]

A good to great blade is a must the higher the tooth count the finer the finish. Stock blades are ok for a few framing cuts on 2x4's beyond that you need a framing blade, a plywood blade and a finish blade if you are doing any of the work in which this blades will be useful.

Virtually any saw above $75 retail is going to last and work essentially the same what matter is how it feels in your hand and the gimmicks you want.

 

[rieferman]

I find a chop saw is very valuable to have in addition to a circular saw. I tend to use the circular saw for plywood and long cuts. But the chop saw is really fast and accurate and easy to use for framing or deck boards etc.

If you opt for a chop saw, I'm a big believer in the 12 inch blade instead of smaller sizes. I can easily cut through a 4" x 4", and no problems doing a 2"x6" even. I just hear a lot of friends griping that their smaller blades bottom out on these types of cuts.

 

[JohnK007]

As for the saws themselves there are two general kind. Direct drive and worm drive. In a direct drive saw the motor shaft is also the arbor for the blade. These are the most commonly seen in tool depts of retailers. All the brands you're probably familiar with make direct drive circular saws. Look for a saw in the 12 to 15 amp range with a 7 1/4 blade being the most useful for the homeowner DIY-type.

Worm drives are generally more powerful that direct drive even though the motor amp rating is the same. They simply generate more torque. In a worm drive the motor armature connects to a gearbox and the blade is 90 degrees from the armature. The cost for that added torque is usually two-fold. 1) Money. Wormdrives are simply more expensive than direct drive because they cost more to make and have more parts. 2) The gearing and configuration of the saw makes for a generally heavier saw than a direct drive, although newer saws use a lot of magnesium to help reduce the weight. Common blade sizes are 6 1/2 and 7 /14.

For all around use around the house I'd recommend a 7 1/4 direct drive saw. The make is your choice but some good brands are Skilsaw, Makita, Milwaukee, and Porter Cable. The Sears Craftsman is a good saw that can often found on sale so don't overlook that one either.

I own both direct and worm drive saws. I fine myself using the worm drive when cutting studs, landscape timbers or heavy/wet wood, and I usually turn to the lighter direct drive when cutting sheet goods like plywood or osb.

 

[bimmer1980]

Check out your local library and dig thru issues of Wood, Fine Home Building, Family Handyman, etc. All of these magazines have tool reviews and will have covered the latest circular saws.

Personally, I have a cordless dewalt circular saw and love it! no cords to drag around. It cuts thru a 2x and plywood with no problem. Unless you are doing a huge amount of wood cutting, it more than does the trick.

I have had a corded circular saww in the past--a cheap one, but my cordless is way better than it.....

 

[Art From De Leon]

I had a cordless Porter Cable, it served its purpose well. I gave it to an employee of the builder of my house, for helping me do some heavy lifting.

I now have a corded Skilsaw, that I bought at Lowes for $39, it too, serves my purposes, and I am happy with it.

 

[hodag]

I have a Craftsman direct drive that I have used for going on 10 years. Several decks, basement finishes, etc. Never had a problem. I just picked up a Makita worm drive on the cheap from a neighbor who is moving. Havent used it yet.

I borrowed a buddys worm-drive Milwaukee when I did the demo on the old garage. Went through 2 layers of shingles, felt, 3/4" plywood and 1" of the trusses without slowing down. My Craftsman just bogged down.

For the weekend warrior, I think the direct drive is the way to go unless you like to have the baddest toys on the block.

 

[gsport]

one thing i really like on all my saws is having a laser guide.... they are pretty darn accurate for the DIY'er.....

 

[mikeyp]

lowes runs a porter cable on special from time to time that has so far been very good to me. I think i paid $59 and has what feel like a lot mor power than my old bosch that I paid a lot more for.

 

[jake00]

A carpenter we use a lot uses this one http://www.skiltools.com/en/AllTools/Category/Product/default.html?pid=HD5510 as his main saw. he has a worm drive for larger stuff, but feels this one provides better control

 

[tcianci]

I think you may have mis-represented what you are calling a direct drive saw. As a matter of fact, I have serviced many circular saws and have never seen one where the motor armature is the arbor of the saw. A typical circular saw has a pinion gear cut into the armature shaft which in turn drives the actual arbor. The arbor gear is larger than the pinion gear which results in an arbor speed less than that of the motor but with increased torque.

 

[BooUrns!]

A carpenter we use a lot uses this one http://www.skiltools.com/en/AllTools/Category/Product/default.html?pid=HD5510 as his main saw. he has a worm drive for larger stuff, but feels this one provides better control

The smaller bladed saws are great for precision cuts and light duty work but the non-standard blades will prove to be a higher cost to replace.

I think you may have mis-represented what you are calling a direct drive saw. As a matter of fact, I have serviced many circular saws and have never seen one where the motor armature is the arbor of the saw. A typical circular saw has a pinion gear cut into the armature shaft which in turn drives the actual arbor. The arbor gear is larger than the pinion gear which results in an arbor speed less than that of the motor but with increased torque.

The common term is a sidewinder.



Fine Homebuilding just did an article on saw blades and circular saws in their last few issues. I'm not sure which one is th most recent.

For 7.25" saws I'll would recommend 24 tooth dewalt framing blades. They aren't the best out there but they hold out for awhile, come in bulk packs and are available at HD or other big box stores. I wouldn't bother putting a fine toothed blade in a sidewinder as the operator is typically too imprecise to cut a straight line.

I own a lot of saws and prefer Makita and Milwaukee brands (I hear RIGID has an excellent warranty program but I dislike their tools). The other sidewinders mentioned above are also good enough for infrequent use.

 

[ddawg16]

Blades.....I have learned a lot...spending $50 for a good blade does not bother me now....

First off....carbid tip only....for wood that is. The POS stamped steel blade that comes with your typical cirular saw is junk...it will never cut a straight line.

Rule of thumb (Thumb had a lot of rules)

Rough cutting...40 teeth or less...typical rough cut blade...cuts fast...does not bind as easy...but will leave some teeth marks. Best for 2x lumber. Will be rough on plywood.

Combi blades will have more teeth....do well for both 2x and plywood....not as much splintering on plywood as a rough cut blade.

Fine blade-60 teeth or more: Used by wood workers.....leaves a nice finish on the edge...does a good job on plywood....also works well on laminates such as melamine....this is the type of blade I use in my compound miter, radial arm saw and table saw. My Craftsman circular saw has a 40 tooth blade. The Ryobi cordless has a fine blade because I use it for ripping a lot of plywood.

Thin Kerf....this blade is not as wide as a normal blade....less waste...but is not a good choice for a circular saw....too easy to have it bind up...I would use it on a good table saw only.