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School me on hanging Drywall

2CRUZ

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Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
526
Location
Southern Illinois
Hey Fellas
I'm at the stage in the new garage where I can start hanging drywall. I have never done it before and I could use some advice. I have put 5/8 osb on top of the bottom cords of the trusses which are 2x4's 24 in. on center. I am putting R13 batts of insulation in between each truss and a plastic vaper barrier. Now for the drywall. Should I nail some slatts crossways on the trusses or can I just nail the drywall right to the trusses. I would app. any advice.
Thanks
Mike
 
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9GUY9

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Oct 12, 2009
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248
Location
Mankato, MN
Where do you live? Is there a second floor above the trusses? R13 is kinda light for a ceiling.

I am no expert but I did just get done rocking my garage. I too have 24" centers. I wanted a attic storage space above my ceiling so I made a catwalk about 12" above the bottom of the trusses. I actually used almost all scrap wood and pallets for this since it is unseen storage. This allowed me to use R38 insulation for the ceiling. I screwed the sheet rock directly to the trusses. You should have a pretty solid ceiling if you have it all fastened with OSB.

I HIGHLY recommend getting a sheetrock lift. I was able to borrow one, and with the lift I was able to hang 12' 5/8" sheets with not too much trouble.
 

Chaz

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Apr 3, 2006
Messages
806
Location
Missoula, MT
I bought a lift at Harbo Freight for about 200 bucks. One of the best investments I ever made. The sheetrock should go across the trusses, Not parallel to. 5/8 rock can be screwed directly to the trusses.
 

pattenp

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Jun 4, 2008
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10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
Is this an attached garage to your house? If attached you need to use 5'8" drywall on ceiling and common wall to house other walls can be 1/2". Detached can be all 1/2". But I recommend 5/8" on ceiling with 24" centered trusses. Glue and screw to truss no need for strapping. Rent a drywall lift it makes the job a lot easier.
 

Macgyver_ga

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Feb 28, 2011
Messages
265
Location
Canton, GA
5/8" on the ceiling, Perpendicular to the trusses as previously suggested.

Also, RENT A DRYWALL LIFT! It's worth every penny for hanging drywall on the ceiling.
 

On1Wheel

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Oct 17, 2011
Messages
349
Location
NE Texas
The only advice I can offer is to be sure to stagger your sheets (like laying brick). I wouldn't have known to do it that way if it weren't for this site.
 

Herb

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Apr 15, 2006
Messages
739
Location
CT
Construction adhesive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Use a lot!!!!!!!!!!! Some people will say that a lot isn't neccesary, BUT... they are not the ones that WILL have to look at and fix the nail pops and cracks. I did my 12'x 16' mudroom with a cathederal ceiling 10 years ago. I used 16 tubes of polyurethane adhesive, with wide full length beads, floor to ceiling, top and bottom plates, and full length on the ceiling rafters and I have ZERO pops and no cracks- corners or seams! Yes, it is an additional initial expense, but the long term benefit absolutely outweighs it.
 
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Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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Merkel, TX
Are your trusses rated for that much weight - 78 lbs per sheet of OSB, 71 for the drywall plus mud - That's right close to 5 lb sq/ft, typical max ceiling weight for a cheap truss. In other words, it might well work but you best not store anything on that OSB flooring unless your trusses are rated for a larger ceiling load.
 

GarageEnvy

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Nov 17, 2009
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1,282
Location
Fresno
I no longer hang my own since I can have it hung, taped and textured for about $.75/sf but I've done it. The drywall contractor recommended 5/8" type X for the ceiling and it wasn't that much more to do the wall that way too so I'm all 5/8". For the attached wall it's required for fire code but the others could have been 1/2". I too have 2x4 trusses 24" OC but I made sure the truss calcs accounted for drywall. Hopefully yours are strong enough for the additional load. I live in CA and still did R-38 in the ceiling. Probably some of the best money I've ever spent. Ceiling first, then work the walls from top to bottom with staggered joints. Make breaks over the middle of doorways rather than along the jamb edges and it's less likely to crack. That's about all this amateur knows. My garage is 1800sf and I thought about DIYing it. After watching two guys knock out hanging those 12' 5/8" sheets in a day I wonder what I was thinking.
 

pattenp

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Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
Do not use construction adhesive such as Liquid Nails. Use adhesive made for drywall. Basic construction adhesive skims over too quick. The dry wall adhesive gives you a little more time to get the glue up and drywall sheet in place.

Construction adhesive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Use a lot!!!!!!!!!!! Some people will say that a lot isn't neccesary, BUT... they are not the ones that WILL have to look at and fix the nail pops and cracks. I did my 12'x 16' mudroom with a cathederal ceiling 10 years ago. I used 16 tubes of polyurethane adhesive, with wide full length beads, floor to ceiling, top and bottom plates, and full length on the ceiling rafters and I have ZERO pops and no cracks- corners or seams! Yes, it is an additional initial expense, but the long term benefit absolutely outweighs it.
 
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2CRUZ

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Jul 25, 2011
Messages
526
Location
Southern Illinois
Thanks Guys for the advice. From what I have read here I will go with 5/8 on the ceiling and 1/2 on the walls. A friend has a drywall jack that I can borrow. My new garage is 30x40 and I'm going to use the attic for storage. I was really conserned about that large of a span 30 ft. the contractor told me the attic trusses designed for storage would have cost me an extra $2000 more but he thought the regular trusses would be ok for normal every day people storage stuff. After I put the 5/8 osb as an attic floor I started too get conserned about the weight issue and the fact that the wood the truss company use to make the trusses had a tremendus amount of knots in it. I called the contractor and voiced my conserns. He called the truss company and the guy came out and looked at them. He told me that was the only kind of lumber that his company can get these days. I also asked him about the weight issue and he got out his calculator and said that even after the osb and the dry wall I would still be able to put 6000 lbs up there which is more than I ever will. He shook my hand and said he owned the company and he garrenteed the trusses. I live in a small town and here your word and a hand shake means a lot. Can I ask how were you guys able to get R38 insulation between 2x4 trusses. R13 was all I could get at Lowes?

Thanks again fellas for the advice

Mike
 

ishiboo

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Oct 27, 2010
Messages
9,481
Location
Oshkosh, WI
Buy the Senco screwgun, it will put the screws to the right depth every time. Works better than the drywall screwguns I've bought. Best investment EVER!

I have my handyman hang the sheets, and then have a guy finish them.

741474308369lg.jpg


It's $100 for the gun, and the screws must be 2-3X as expensive, but you save so much time and aggregation and make the finishing process smoother. Well worth it. The philips bits are expensive, but I have about 75 sheets hung in my upstairs and I'm still on the first bit.
 

pattenp

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Jun 4, 2008
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Location
Virginia - USA
The 71 lbs is about right for a 5/8 4X8 sheet of drywall but what size sheet of OSB weights 78 lbs? The typical OSB I see is 7/16 4X8 and weights about 50 lbs at most.

Are your trusses rated for that much weight - 78 lbs per sheet of OSB, 71 for the drywall plus mud - That's right close to 5 lb sq/ft, typical max ceiling weight for a cheap truss. In other words, it might well work but you best not store anything on that OSB flooring unless your trusses are rated for a larger ceiling load.
 
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2CRUZ

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Jul 25, 2011
Messages
526
Location
Southern Illinois
I thought about cutting some strips of plywood and glueing and screwing them across the joint where the two 2x4 meet but the truss guy said I could if I wanted to but it wasn"t nessary. Should I put the ceiling up first or the walls?
 

mzahn

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Dec 3, 2011
Messages
53
About 16 years ago, I put boxes up in the attic of my garage that has an attached house. 2 x 4 on 24" centers with 5/8 rock. There were 1 x 8 planks that I put on top of the lower cord to set the boxes on and there was 400# over a 200 sq ft area. About 10 years ago I looked across the ceiling while climbing into the attic......damn, 3" sag where the boxes were!
 

pattenp

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Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
The normal procedure is to put the ceiling sheets up first, then the walls.

I thought about cutting some strips of plywood and glueing and screwing them across the joint where the two 2x4 meet but the truss guy said I could if I wanted to but it wasn"t nessary. Should I put the ceiling up first or the walls?
 

jumpingryan

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Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Messages
89
Location
Ontario, Canada
Buy the Senco screwgun, it will put the screws to the right depth every time. Works better than the drywall screwguns I've bought. Best investment EVER!

I have my handyman hang the sheets, and then have a guy finish them.

741474308369lg.jpg


It's $100 for the gun, and the screws must be 2-3X as expensive, but you save so much time and aggregation and make the finishing process smoother. Well worth it. The philips bits are expensive, but I have about 75 sheets hung in my upstairs and I'm still on the first bit.

I just seen a Youtube video of this screw gun..... and I want one!

Thanks, never heard of this brand before....

Ryan
 

Falcon67

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Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
The 71 lbs is about right for a 5/8 4X8 sheet of drywall but what size sheet of OSB weights 78 lbs? The typical OSB I see is 7/16 4X8 and weights about 50 lbs at most.

Because he said he used 5/8" OSB, not 7/16".

I'm hanging OSB, so I bought one of those $3 drywall screw tips for the drill - works fine. Worst part about hanging OSB is trying to start a screw with 50 lbs balanced on your head. :lol:
 
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