School me on insulation: Garage

[StolenFox]

Ok so I've had enough of being unable to work in my Denver garage during winter so it's time to insulate. Problem is, I know nothing about insulation so I'm hoping for some help. The garage is part of our house. It's a 3 car (2 wide with 3rd bay deep set) that is insulated only where that wall borders a living space. Everything else (walls & ceiling) are bare to the studs which are 2x4's on 16" centers. The walls are 9'-0" tall and the ceiling is pitched as the garage is peaked in the center. I'd like to eventually either sheet in plywood or drywall but it may be exposed indefinitely. The garage is also the workshop so sparks from welding and cutting are inevitable.

The insulation project will be DIY and cost is a concern of course. So: Batts, rolls, fiberglass, rock wool, faced, bare, 15" width, 16" width.....

Help!

S.F.

 

[Ross/Kzoo]

Go to a home center for pricing. Use batts for the walls which has an insignificant effect vs the ceiling. I think the ceiling is about 75-85% of the heat loss. Don't forget to insulate your garage door for a cozy hang out. I put plastic on the walls and ceiling until I put my pole building metal (white) on the walls and ceiling this spring. It's very comfortable in 0 degree weather.

 

[The Cobbler]

batt insulation.
fiberglass( less expensive and can be a bit itchy) easy to work with
or
Roxul , more expensive, slight better r value. easy to work with .denser product than fiberglass
in either case you want to fill the cavity snugly, but don't compress the insulation as this reduces the r value.
careful cutting so a nice fit around wires, pipes etc. try to use your waste as you go, essentially you should have virtually no waste as you use the cut offs as you go type of thing.
wear a mask, long sleeved shirts and long pants. don't scratch or rub yourself, when you're done for the day, remove your clothes and shower first without rubbing, just rinse off. then wash. around here, we install 6 mil poly on the heated side of the insulation. that also helps to keep it in place & protects it some from brushing into it etc.

 

[The Cobbler]

also if your garage is wood framed on 16" centers, get the 15" batts, 16" is for steel studs. I can get a better price for material from an insulation contractor than I can at big box stores or lumber yard that i deal with everyday.

 

[kaymccampbell]

If you will be welding, then you will want a drywall or steel liner. Also consider adding a stud wall inside the existing one, to get your wall thickness up to 5.5" so you can do R19 on the walls. And you'll want at least a foot of insulation in the ceiling.

 

[tfi racing]

You may be surprised how reasonable it is for a pro to do it,in most cases they can supply and install for less than what you will pay at the blue or orange store...

 

[DC73]

I can get a better price for material from an insulation contractor than I can at big box stores or lumber yard that i deal with everyday.

That tends to be true around here as well. If there is an 84 Lumber nearby, they'll generally be able to beat Home Depot's and Lowe's insulation prices.

I like mineral wool (rock wool) insulation (Roxul is one brand). It's a better insulation than fiberglass. Better sound resistance, better fire resistance, and blocks the flow of air much better than fiberglass.

Blown-in cellulose is a good option for ceilings.

A couple of places to read up on insulation:

GreenBuildingAdvisor.com (especially their Q&A forum).
BuildingScience.com

Read this before you consider any kind of vapor barrier: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/membership/pdf/174534/021264084-87-EnergySmart.pdf

DC

 

[48windsor]

I want to thank The cobbler for mentioning about which to buy when . I figured on buying 16" ,for my wood garage . So now I know.

 

[theoldwizard1]

He goes up, so insulate the ceiling first. If you don't have a ceiling you may want to install one because the cheapest form of insulation is blown in cellulose or fiberglass.

If you in Denver. you probably want about 12". Do this first, even if it means holding off on doing the walls until it is in your budget.

 

[gnpenning]

Agree with checking with an insulating company. Most are less expensive than the box stores with labor included.

The last house I built they did all the work with materials for less than I could buy materials from a box store.

Box stores are for convenience only. Lumber at the lumber yards is cheaper and better product. As are many other products. Some price point sale items are a good deal. Other than that it's the same as a grocery store having a cheap turkey but getting you on everything else. The same with the Easter ham.

While they have volume discount so do some of the multi regional lumber yards. They don't build them big stores everywhere by not turning a healthy profit.

I find many of the same products cheaper at local grocery stores than at Wally World.

Use your phone book call a couple insulation retailers and have them come out and give you a bid with options. Let your fingers do the work. We have one that sales sheetrock as well and they can bid both at the same time.

 

[StolenFox]

Thanks to all who have replied! I think I will get some quotes for material and install labor prior to visiting "Blue" or "Orange" big-box.

S.F.

 

[padroo]

Don't forget to do all your plumbing and electrical work before you insulate. It will save you a lot of headaches in the future.

 

[BillK]

Fox,
Something that nobody has mentioned is how well your door(s) are sealed up. My attached 22x22 garage has been insulated from day one but the biggest thing I did was to replace the builders "wood" uninsulated 16 ft door about 10 years ago. I went with a steel insulated door with the correct outside weatherstrip and that made all the difference in the world. I have a 5000 watt electric heater and it will heat the garage up to 65 degrees in about 20 minutes if it is 20 degrees outside.

My ceiling is drywalled but the walls are an inexpensive wood paneling from HD. I have a couple of small sections of pegboard near my work bench.

This is the heater I have http://www.morelectricheating.com/d...awjOXRIvH5Sv5Pk6loYlV4Q3o8QfLJl7joaAlSy8P8HAQ

 

[Mesozoic]

You can blow in insulation into vertical walls as well as ceilings, that would be the easiest way to add insulative material into the walls. Agree on the doors being a major issue as well - invest in some decent quality insulated doors and that should take care of it! Not sure if Denver is the right climate zone, but a heat pump would do well in heating the space and also work in the summer for cooling.

 

[beltfeed]

You do realize that the OP may have his insulation all installed after seven years.

 

[Mesozoic]

You do realize that the OP may have his insulation all installed after seven years.

Absolutely likely, however I only realized this after I posted LOL. Not sure why the thread showed up as a "new post!"