School me on Prevost couplers

[ALinCarolina]

I will be installing air lines in my new shop in a few months and am planning on upgrading the couplers when I do. Prevost has a bewildering array of choices and I didn't see anything on their website on helping you choose which ones you need.

http://www.prevostusa.com/COUPLINGS...-AND-PLUGS-PREVOS1,us,c-c1997-epc1000003.html

blue seems to be what I see most but between blue, red, green, yellow, orange, industrial interchange, Truflate, hi flow, I am confused. And then that's not even listing the male plug options.
The best info I have seen so far is:

https://mdmetric.com/prod/atp/D3Prevostcoupler.pdf

But what I would most like to see is some sort of buyers guide or application suggestions. Can anyone help me decide? Should I get different ones for say an impact wrench vs. a high volume sander vs. a blast cabinet?

 

[Strouty]

I don't like having different style couplers for different tools. Some people set thing sup that way, but it seems like a PITA to me.

 

[Schurkey]

I've used Lincoln, Tru-Flate, Industrial Interchange. Probably some others if I were to think back far enough. They all sucked.

Industrial Interchange is what's used on quick-disconnect compression testers and leakdown testers. If I were going to use "ordinary" couplers, I'd set up my shop to use Industrial Interchange also known as Milton "M" style. Then I can plug my compression or leakdown tester accessories directly into "shop air" for testing or evaluation.

In fact, I just bought all-new couplers and plugs about six months ago. I used Milton "V" style high-flow couplers and plugs. The "Green" Prevost might be interchangeable with Milton "V", and if so, that'd be my recommendation. The Prevost paperwork shows the Green to be the highest-flow available in a 1/4" body configuration.

 

[ronnyg801]

Prevost makes very nice things, their catalog is a PITA. The push button couplers rock. Safety feature is nice if you care.

If you are doing an entire new air fitting set up, I would go with hi-flow. it will increase tool capability, quite simply.

If you are not in a hurry, on tuesday when I get back to work and can have access to my catalogs and fitting guide I would be more than happy to help you figure out your prevost set up.

 

[pstnbly]

For the price I'll stick with Milton.

 

[Schurkey]

For the price I'll stick with Milton.

Me, too.

However, as far as goofy Euro air-hose quick-connects go, don't forget the old Oetiker swing-couplers. Oetiker doesn't make 'em any more (I guess) but some other company picked-up the line.

Simple, easy, safe, coupler plug locks in place, and zero obstruction in the air path once the coupler plug is fully inserted. Like the Prevost, they depressurize the downstream air hose before releasing the coupler plug. I have one to fit Industrial Interchange; but I don't have an actual use for it so it's parked in a drawer. Someday, it's likely to go on a leakdown or compression tester.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L9V74S/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[ALinCarolina]

Thanks guys. I'm in no hurry, probably couple months out. I have Milton couplers now and a lot of my tools leak air at the coupler which bugs me. I am hoping an upgrade will eliminate the leaking. Some of my male plugs may be getting worn.

My reel hose is 3/8 but all by male plugs are 1/4" so maybe I should go to 3/8?

 

[pstnbly]

My reel hose is 3/8 but all by male plugs are 1/4" so maybe I should go to 3/8?

All my stuff is 3/8 except my 2" finish nailer. That is set up to run on my small Emglow with a 1/4" hose. Anyway tools like impact guns, air chisels, and needle scalers that vibrate get whips, that keeps the couplers from rattling and wearing themselves out.

 

[Bill Bowman]

I switched to Prevost (blue) to replace my Milton's in a commercial setting, about 12-15 years ago. Have not had to replace a coupler since. Prior to that, we were rebuilding/replacing Miltons on a regular basis.

 

[Bellaireroad]

I have the green... high flow... very happy with them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WhiffySpark]

You can use the Milton fittings with the prevost couplers that doesn't matter. They aren't all that more expensive than Milton and miltons dont always last

 

[Firebrick43]

Me, too.

However, as far as goofy Euro air-hose quick-connects go, don't forget the old Oetiker swing-couplers. Oetiker doesn't make 'em any more (I guess) but some other company picked-up the line.

Simple, easy, safe, coupler plug locks in place, and zero obstruction in the air path once the coupler plug is fully inserted. Like the Prevost, they depressurize the downstream air hose before releasing the coupler plug. I have one to fit Industrial Interchange; but I don't have an actual use for it so it's parked in a drawer. Someday, it's likely to go on a leakdown or compression tester.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L9V74S/?tag=atomicindus08-20

+1

Once you get used to it you will love them. Easy to hook/unhook one handed and won't let hoses whip about when disconnecting. We have 40 acres Under roof with these, an air drop about every 20' in most places. It's takes an operator real concentration to tear one up and never seen one simply wear out after 15 years of shift work.

 

[justanengineer]

Once you get used to it you will love them. Easy to hook/unhook up one handed and won't let hoses whip about when disconnecting. We have 40 acres Unroof with these, an air drop about every 20' in most places. It's takes an operator real concentration to tear one up and never seen one simply wear out after 15 years out shift work.

Agreed 100%, I LOVE Oetikers from an operational standpoint but even better is not having to replace the POS Miltons every few years from wear or dropping damage. I'm waiting to see what the future holds for Milton now that theyre Chinese made, didnt think they could get any worse but never know...

 

[Norcal]

I use the Truflate design style, most of mine are made by Parker & been happy with them.

 

[jomobco]

Me, too.

However, as far as goofy Euro air-hose quick-connects go, don't forget the old Oetiker swing-couplers. Oetiker doesn't make 'em any more (I guess) but some other company picked-up the line.

Any idea who picked up the line? I'm having trouble finding what I want as they seem to be low in stock on most and discontinued on the rest.

 

[ALinCarolina]

The Oetikers look good too. I have their clamping system kit that I used on my boat. But I agree they are apparently not as available as the Prevosts. Also, the literature I saw on them was not very clear on what male plugs fit them.

 

[ALinCarolina]

Here is what I have gleaned so far from the Prevost PDFs:

the ISC 081 series (black body with blue button) is 3/8" and will deliver 88.7 SCFM at 90 psi which is the same as the USC series (black body with red button) which is the Truflate profile. Any advantage to the Truflate? Aren't the Industrial Interchange plugs more common? They look like what profile I have now and can be used in a pinch.

I think 88 SCFM will be enough to get by

The ESC series High Flow Profile (black with green button) in 3/8" delivers 82.2 SCFM. Go figure.

IRC series (blue body and light blue button) is the non-safety coupler. I don't see any reason to go there over the safety coupler. Same with URC (blue body with red button) which is the Truflate but non-safety.

I'm not even going to get into the ARO or European high flow profile, my head is full enough now.

 

[cvairwerks]

Thanks guys. I'm in no hurry, probably couple months out. I have Milton couplers now and a lot of my tools leak air at the coupler which bugs me. I am hoping an upgrade will eliminate the leaking. Some of my male plugs may be getting worn.

My reel hose is 3/8 but all by male plugs are 1/4" so maybe I should go to 3/8?

You need some Milton 701 or 768 repair kits to stop the leaks. The 701 kit has the seal and the spring and runs about $1.50. The 768 appears to be a seal only and runs about .50$. Lots cheaper than replacing all the couplers.

 

[Firebrick43]

I am not sure about oetiker stopping production. Searches still come up with them. Sometimes the come up with TST but still say oetiker elsewhere.

http://coastalhydraulics.net/technical-library/Oetiker%20Fittings/Oeitker%20Swing%20Coupling%20Training%20Binder.pdf

Here is a good link with a slide show in the front and a catalog towards the end. Page 47 of the pdf or 6 of the catalog shows the two ****** styles in 1/4 inch. A1 and b1 style couplers. I forgot something else. For some reason the female style couplers(female attaching to supply pipeing) are stupid expensive. Male threaded ones are sanely priced. We use a pipe coupler to install the male one. We use the on extension hoses as well, 3/8 barbs with hammer lock bands.

 

[cvairwerks]

Oetikers look nice, but I couldn't deal with 3 inches of rigid coupling hanging off every tool.

 

[Firebrick43]

Oetikers look nice, but I couldn't deal with 3 inches of rigid coupling hanging off every tool.

The swing coupler is no longer than other couplers?? They are shorter than a hose with factory npt male thread and a standard quick coupler if you get the swing couplers with a barb to go directly into the hose.

 

[cvairwerks]

I make up my own hoses and use reusable brass, screw together fittings. With these, hanging an Oetiker on it, makes it over 3" long.

Interesting reading in the Oetiker book, as it tells you to hold the coupling together until completely vented to keep from having a violent disconnect.

 

[Firebrick43]

I have never experienced a violent disconnection. The vent hole bleeds of pressure fast, most of the time before you finish rotating it. On long hoses that take several seconds to drain the the possibility is there. The method of connection/disconnection means however you have the hose end fully in hand and would have to let go for this to happen. You can also partially rotate the hose end, allowing it to drain but not come off, and rotate fully when drained.

Other quick connectors either require two hands for safety or an insecure grip on using your forefinger and thumb to slide the collar back.

Do you fly in that Fairchild?

 

[cvairwerks]

A two handed disconnect is the norm for me. I'm often changing tools while in very confined spaces at work. Letting a hose end whip can cost megabucks and get me some time off without pay if anything were to get damaged at all. It's so ingrained into me, that I do it without thinking, even at home.

Someday it will fly again. I rescued it from an uncertain end, many years ago just prior to the museum that owned it, disbanding. It's the only Bellanca built version of the AT-21 still in existence. I've had it in storage and kinda under wraps until this year, as things started to shake out and let me get back to my own projects. Unfortunately, just as I started to get things moving, we have had to start planning a household move for this summer. I have manged to secure all but one unit for a complete set com and navigation radios for it this year.

 

[az45]

I use the Prevost. Instead of having them all over the shop, I put them on a couple short leads with swivels then move them around as needed. I can use one hand to disconnect them, never have had a failure.

I don't make a living in my shop, so a high volume abuser may have different results.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I used to have Milton V series. They worked good in terms of flow, but they were about worn out when I got my hose reels so I tossed them. I currently have the no-name connectors that came with my reels and whatever additional ones I have gotten from local suppliers, but I might switch over to the Prevost Green series eventually. The Oetikers look really cool, but I can't justify the cost.

On a separate note, I don't quite understand all the "hose whip" complaints. Every air line I have ever used has had a female quick connect on it and no more than a teeny "Psst!" of air has ever come out when disconnecting a tool.

Tommy

 

[cvairwerks]

Tommy: It comes from people being fumble fingers either because they were not paying attention, or having greased up hands while doing a disconnect and losing the hose end. It can also happen when dragging a hose with certain style disconnects when the coupler hangs on something and enough pulling force is applied to cause it to disconnect. All of our hoses at work have locking couplers to prevent accidental disconnects. It's a pain, as you have to rotate the coupler to the correct position to be able to unlock it. Most of the hoses we have at work are 75' and we are often plugged into a pig fed by a 3/4" id hose off the hangar wall.

As to the Miltons...1.50$ and five minutes to reseal them.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Tommy: It comes from people being fumble fingers either because they were not paying attention, or having greased up hands while doing a disconnect and losing the hose end. It can also happen when dragging a hose with certain style disconnects when the coupler hangs on something and enough pulling force is applied to cause it to disconnect. All of our hoses at work have locking couplers to prevent accidental disconnects. It's a pain, as you have to rotate the coupler to the correct position to be able to unlock it.

As to the Miltons...1.50$ and five minutes to reseal them.

I'm still lost. When the hose disconnects from the tool, there's no air coming out to cause a whip condition even if the hose is dropped. I do admit I didn't think of it happening when two hoses are coupled together.

My Miltons were old and beat up, so rebuilding would have made them work better, but they'd still look crappy.

Tommy

 

[Dustball]

The problem occurs when you have a hose connected to a quick disconnect that is mounted onto a wall or another hose. There's a fair amount of compressed air volume in a hose that will cause the hose to whip when disconnected if it wasn't held onto.

 

[Schurkey]

Where to start...

1. You should not put your quick-coupler directly on the air tool. Always use a whip hose. I buy swivel hoses, having a ball-and-socket joint at the air tool. I prefer 6 foot or longer whips, but I settle for 30".
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HEKQHG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

No quick-coupler at the air tool = less bulk, greater safety. The longer the whip, the more stored air, so the more value you might place on a coupler that vents before disconnecting. Truthfully, even with 6' whips, I don't really care about the venting. Venting is nice when connecting (well, disconnecting) two 50' air hoses, though. Lots of stored air there.

2. The former Oetiker swing couplings are now made by TST.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HEKQHG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

TST Catalog
https://ccs.dogpile.com/ClickHandle...EF00CFB31C6ECEDD5732AA6E2&ap=7&cop=main-title

3. Do you REALLY want to get into 3/8 couplers?

 

[jomobco]

Where to start...


2. The former Oetiker swing couplings are now made by TST.
https://www.amazon.com/amspages/TO1XOIGE8WIWFIW/

TST Catalog
https://ccs.dogpile.com/ClickHandle...EF00CFB31C6ECEDD5732AA6E2&ap=7&cop=main-title

Thank you! I need leak proof for this particular connection rather than cheap.

 

[cvairwerks]

We never used whips for anything but cart mounted intensifiers when I worked inside the plant. With more than 40,000 air tools it would have been insanity to keep up with, besides the storage problem it would create. It was all our tool repair shop could do to keep us enough tools on the floor. At one time while I was doing heavy structure, I had 9 drill motors, 4 die grinders and 4 rivet guns assigned to me. Almost every one of the was used daily.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Where to start...

You should not put your quick-coupler directly on the air tool. Always use a whip hose. I buy swivel hoses, having a ball-and-socket joint at the air tool. I prefer 6 foot or longer whips, but I settle for 30".
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HEKQHG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

No quick-coupler at the air tool = less bulk, greater safety. The longer the whip, the more stored air, so the more value you might place on a coupler that vents before disconnecting. Truthfully, even with 6' whips, I don't really care about the venting. Venting is nice when connecting (well, disconnecting) two 50' air hoses, though. Lots of stored air there.

OK, I get what you're saying. As an ex auto shop mechanic who still sees a lot of what happens in day-to-day life in auto shops, I can tell you I have never seen a whip on an air tool. Coupling directly to the hose is the norm. The coupler at the end of the whip catches on the lifts, table legs and other things and sometimes uncouples. The whips also take up a lot of space in a tool box.
I can see where whips might be employed in an industrial application where tools are not changed out as frequently.

Tommy

 

[ALinCarolina]

Well, I ordered Prevost ISC and a TST/Oetiker and a couple male plugs. I can see how well they work and how interchangeable they are. Will update later.

 

[dave89iroc]

don't drop those plastic connectors on a concrete floor, they break in half

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I gotta say one thing, looking at the TST/Oetiker catalog & trying to figure out what I need is somewhat confusing. I know I need Industrial Interchange, 1/4" FPT and one 3/8" FPT, but there are quite a few part numbers for what otherwise look like identical couplers...

Tommy

 

[cvairwerks]

7 digit numbers for each style connector body based on id, then if it's for female or male threading on the hose and so on.
For industrial interchange, the bodies will be SC B1's, so ..
1/4" SC B1 Female body, NPT thread, would be a 205 00 311

1/4" SC B1 Male body, NPT thread, would be a 205 00 317

3/8" SC B1 Female body, NPT thread, would be a 205 00 312

3/8" SC B1 Male body, NPT thread, would be a 205 00 318

 

[ovilla]

Tommy: It comes from people being fumble fingers either because they were not paying attention, or having greased up hands while doing a disconnect and losing the hose end. It can also happen when dragging a hose with certain style disconnects when the coupler hangs on something and enough pulling force is applied to cause it to disconnect. All of our hoses at work have locking couplers to prevent accidental disconnects. It's a pain, as you have to rotate the coupler to the correct position to be able to unlock it. Most of the hoses we have at work are 75' and we are often plugged into a pig fed by a 3/4" id hose off the hangar wall.

As to the Miltons...1.50$ and five minutes to reseal them.

Can someone please point me to a link or video that shows how to rebuild the Milton couplers? I have a couple that are leaking now. Thanks

 

[cvairwerks]

If I remember correctly, a wrench on the coupler flats like you are going to screw it on a hose or piece of pipe, then use pliers to turn the non moving knurled section at the other end. You may need to retract the moving section just a little to get enough space to get pliers on it. A layer of duct tape or similar to prevent scarring of the brass. The body will unscrew and you can replace the seal itself or the button/seal/spring assembly. Do not remove the spring clip you see when you retract the outer body unless you want to go chase balls all over the place. Its been about 15 years since I've had to put a new seal in one, so this is off memory from the deep and dark recesses of the mind....

 

[Schurkey]

Most of the time the only thing needed is to wrench the knurled part at the end tight again.