School me on routers

[mbarth712]

Like the title says I am just getting started in woodworking and I do not have a router. I don't even know where to begin with them or what to look for when purchasing one. I don't want to buy an expensive one but don't want to buy one from harbor freight. Looking for one that has the capabilities and features that can grow with me as my skills get better and I start doing bigger and more intricate projects. Thanks for any help guys.

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[bdk1976]

Don't have advice on a specific router, but see tons of older quality brands with low use at garage sales. I think I paid 5-10 bucks for my craftsman crown top model. Tons of older woodworking machines for cheap at estate/garage sales.




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[rlitman]

I'm usually partial to old tools, but when it comes to routers, I prefer variable speed. And if it can be hooked up to dust collection, that's even better.

 

[ScottsGT]

Shop around, do lots of reading. There are basic router, palm routers for edge work and I'm sure many others out there. I jumped on an ebay deal for a Porter Cable with a fixed base and a plunge base. Came with 1/4" & 1/2" collets. I think I got it all for $125 or less, but I have seen better deals on used ones since then.
Of course you are going to need a router table too!

 

[mbarth712]

Whats the difference between fixed base and plunge routers?

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[mefast]

Whats the difference between fixed base and plunge routers?

Fixed base means that the base will stay at the set depth until it's manually screwed to a different depth.

Plunge routers allow you to set the high and low depths and use some sort of quick change so you can quickly change the height while the tool is on.

Fixed bases are good for router tables or for consistent edges. A plunge base is useful where you might want to drop a bit into a number of holes or milling out a recess in sections.

Last year I picked up a Bosch MRC23EVSK. It includes both fixed and plunge bases, has collet chucks for both 1/4" and 1/2" bits, lights directly in the bottom so you can see exactly what you're working on and the power trigger is on the handle, so you're ready in place before turning the router on. It might be out of your price range, but if you can swing it, you won't be disappointed.

What are you planning on using the router for?

 

[ez-duzit]

Whats the difference between fixed base and plunge routers?...

You have to be willing to do a little research on your own.

The classic Porter Cable router plus a trim router will handle most of your needs. Bosch is another good brand. Avoid Chinese imports. Buy carbide bits as you need them.

 

[mbarth712]

Fixed base means that the base will stay at the set depth until it's manually screwed to a different depth.

Plunge routers allow you to set the high and low depths and use some sort of quick change so you can quickly change the height while the tool is on.

Fixed bases are good for router tables or for consistent edges. A plunge base is useful where you might want to drop a bit into a number of holes or milling out a recess in sections.

Last year I picked up a Bosch MRC23EVSK. It includes both fixed and plunge bases, has collet chucks for both 1/4" and 1/2" bits, lights directly in the bottom so you can see exactly what you're working on and the power trigger is on the handle, so you're ready in place before turning the router on. It might be out of your price range, but if you can swing it, you won't be disappointed.

What are you planning on using the router for?

Rounding over the edges on a kitchen stand I'm building

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[ScottsGT]

 

[thooks]

If you want a basic router kit that will last pretty much forever and be your go-to router in many cases in your woodworking, you can't go wrong with this- Bosch 1617 Kit. I have 3 or 4 of these and I have abused them. They are bullet proof. The older Porter-Cable 690 routers used to be, but I don't even know if they are made anymore since PC sold out to Dewalt.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHPD/?tag=atomicindus08-20

You don't list a location, but if you are near Atlanta, you could probably talk me into a deal on a Bosch router. I'm slowly weaning down my woodworking tool collection. I talk about them being abused, but that is not really true. I did use them but only in a hobby setting. Not an industrial setting.

 

[Cope]

Pat Warner has forgotten more about routers than most of us will ever know. He has a pretty good list of recommended routers.

http://www.patwarner.com/

 

[Sine Swept]

I have the compact Dewalt with fixed and plunge base. It is small, but powerful, has a built in light which is nice and is capable of things I wouldn't try with a larger router.

 

[trainer]

A big thing to look for is a solid depth of cut locking arrangement. I have recent craftsman that tends to creep out of adjustment when running multiple pieces on a router table and is pretty much useless.
It also has a rack and pinion type adjustment that gets clogged with chips and jams. the only reason I use it anymore is because its the only one I own that has half-inch collet.

I Have older craftsman and a Ryobi models that are adjusted by a collar on coarse plastic threads that seem like they would be less precise, but work much better.

 

[tarbellb]

Lots of choices for bigger models (1-3hp), Bosch, PC, and others get good reviews.

Variable speed and Soft Start are excellent options.

As for a good Trim router, I and others on here highly recommend the Ridgid. It has lots of great features, LED, Soft Start, Variable speed, smart button locations + its cheap and has a lifetime warranty*.

 

[ddawg16]

I have 3 routers.

One of them (Porter Gable) stays on my router table (part of my table saw).
The one I use the most is my Ryobi plunge router. Variable speed.

Make sure you get one that accepts both 1/2" and 1/4" bits.

 

[cheechi]

here's the thing about woodworking. You buy a lathe, and that's unlocked the door to hundreds of dollars worth of knives chisels etc. You want to be really sure you are going to be a lathe guy.

Similarly, buying a router opens up the door to a million bits, jigs, you name it. You want my opinion buy a handheld. I have the Bosch Colt, I have used the Ridgid and Dewalt all are good. The Bosch is of course the best but the others are also good.

Get a roundover bit with a bearing. Most will have one. Whiteside, Freud, Bosch, Amana all good places to look. Probably just drive down to HD and get the Freud off the shelf you're good to go. Notice I didn't suggest buy a whole bunch of router bits in a set.

How much scrap do you have? How straight is your straightedge? How square is your square? These are typically the most important questions to answer when working with a handheld router. Test cut, adjust height. Test cut, adjust height. You can easily spend hours perfecting the adjustment depending what you're doing. Or you could just find something you like zip it through done in 5 mins. The bearing helps a lot with that, and is convenient, but have a straightedge in case your piece isn't as straight or square as you thought.

I have an 8ft (workbench) desk I built many years ago. Had a few MDF/cheapo desks over the years and kept what hardware I could and/or remembered to. Recently I made a 6ft keyboard drawer for my desk, took 2 or 3 test cuts to really get it lined up perfect, but my roundover is flush with both factory edges of the board, I haven't sanded, painted it or made a second pass or anything. Just put it through the table and screwed it onto the salvaged drawer slides not one splinter in about a year of use. Some things you can eyeball, test cuts are the best way to do anything though.

 

[LeeG]

Pat Warner has forgotten more about routers than most of us will ever know. He has a pretty good list of recommended routers.

http://www.patwarner.com/

+1 on this.

Stay away from the multi-bit packages - you will probably never use most of them. Buy instead quality bits as you need them. I prefer a router that will accept both a 1/2" and 1/4" collet. I have had real good results with the DeWalt 600 series and the Porter-Cable 600 and 900 series. If you are only getting one, start with a 1 1/2 - 2hp model with both fixed and plunge base. 2nd router should probably be a smaller trim style, such as the Bosch Colt.

For bits, I really like Whiteside. Freud, Infinity, and Amana also make good quality bits.

Currently, my primary router is a Festool OL1400, but it has a pretty hefty price tag. Search Craigslist - routers are one of the things that seem pretty common.

 

[Packard V8]

School me on routers . . . I don't want to buy an expensive one . . . Looking for the capabilities and features that can grow with me as my skills get better and I start doing bigger and more intricate projects. Thanks for any help guys.

Unfortunate that shipping is so expensive, as I've got a shelf full of older commercial Skil, Black & Decker and Stanley routers. I could fix you up with a full-size and a trim router for less than $50.

jack vines

 

[fourjeepin]

I just picked up a Craftsman one for $40. I'm sure it is not the best, but it was inexpensive and a huge jump from the ancient B+D one my wife found at the Goodwill. It served for a couple of projects, but just enough to let me know what I was missing by not having a decent router.

 

[cheechi]

Unless it's older than the 80's, most likely that Craftsman router is a Skil or Bosch. Not a guarantee that you can use any Skil or Bosch accessory with it but pretty good likelihood. Nice thing is it will pretty much work with any Craftsman accessory you buy and compatibility is a really good reason to buy one router over another all things considered. Especially if you are like me and every router is set up for a purpose.

If that B&D router is a fixed base, find or make a table you want to put it in. So long as it still works properly it can still serve you.

 

[Gizmosity]

Like the title says I am just getting started in woodworking and I do not have a router. I don't even know where to begin with them or what to look for when purchasing one. I don't want to buy an expensive one but don't want to buy one from harbor freight. Looking for one that has the capabilities and features that can grow with me as my skills get better and I start doing bigger and more intricate projects. Thanks for any help guys.

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First, fix that whole 'don't even know where to begin' issue.

I'd suggest reading 'Router Joinery' by Gary Rogowski, cover to cover. At that point you'll at least have an idea of what you want to do now and where you plan on going with routers. He also wrote one of the best books on joinery, surprisingly titled ‘Joinery’. Great reference.

I have and use a whole bunch of routers and just bought 3 more within the last couple of months. The Dewalt variable speed fixed based routers seem pretty nice. I have no complaints with them for what I use them for.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006JKXB/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I really think a variable speed 3+ HP plunge router is the most versatile. They're also the most expensive. I have some archaic ones. Of the many I’ve used I think I prefer the Porter Cable 7539. That’s mainly because I’ve used one for 20+ years, it’s just what I’m used to. I didn’t have good experiences with Dewalt plunge routers, but that’s from some years ago. The Bosch 1619EVS was a great router. I’m not so sure you can even buy those anymore. The Makita RP1800 seems like a solid unit for reasonable money and I was really close to buying two of them. People like Festool. I'm taking the plunge someday, but not today.

I grabbed this Makita kit on sale for $120 around Fathers Day. I really, really like it and have used it a LOT since it showed up. 1-1/4 HP, variable speed with fixed and plunge base. The fixed base has a fantastic gear driven height adjustment. Top notch stuff. I was leaning toward the Dewalt kit, but I'm glad I went with the Makita. I think it would be a great starter router as long as you aren't looking to run large diameter bits as this is limited to 1/4" shanks. I use it mainly for joinery and detail work with 1/8"-3/8" diameter straight bits.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HAQMHEO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Sine Swept]

If you are working outside the work piece run the router counter clockwise. If you are then working inside the piece work the router clockwise.

I had an old B&D that I had been using for sometime, one day I heard it make an awful noise and I was quick to retire it to the scrap heap. Don't be risky with a router, it will win. It is good practice to hold the tool while it is slowing down RPM's to a halt, instead of just setting it down with a spinning bit that could possibly do damage to many things.

 

[jeffmoss26]

Wired or wireless?