I'd just order the Freud LU91 or the Forrest blade. I don't think I've really heard a negative review of 'good' Freud blades or Forrest blades. Cost excepted.
The Rigid may or may not be fine. I don't know as I haven't used that blade.
As to good blade versus cheap blade, you DO get what you pay for IMHO.
Usually 'good' blades have better materials (carbide tips and blade body steel) and better workmanship (grinding on the carbide tips, overall assembly, blade body flatness and runout, etc). The Freud higher-end blades usually have harder and flatter blade bodies and thicker carbide tips (stronger -and- gives you more material to sharpen so you can get more life out of the blade).
As to blade thickness and kerf, Freud makes LOTS of different blades. Some are full plate thickness and full kerf, and others are thin kerf. Like most things in life, there are trade-offs. Thicker kerf and plate means stronger and less deflection but takes more motor power and makes more wood into sawdust. Thin kerf means it cuts a bit easier and makes a little less sawdust (wastes less wood, in other words) but can deflect a little bit more or vibrate/sing and make a -slightly- more ragged/rough cut.
Oh, the other thing I have noticed about using a 'good' blade, is that they are usually a little bit quieter and don't 'whistle' or ring/sing as much. Not always that easy to tell, as the universal motor on a chop/miter saw is usually pretty darn loud. Loud enough that I use hearing protectors for pretty much all power tools nowadays. Drill press and scroll saw are about the only ones that are usually quiet enough that I don't always put on the muffs. Unless I also have the dust collector running, in which case that is loud enough to warrant muffs/plugs.
As to sharpening blades, you can go to the Forrest website. They offer blade resharpening if you can't find a local competent place. They sharpen other brands besides their own. Cost is about $20-$22 or so depending on tooth count, plus shipping. Not a customer (yet), don't own stock in them or work there or anything, just have heard good things about them.
As to cutting laminate flooring, the saw being used determines whether to cut from the 'face' or the 'back'. If using a cordless trim saw (small-blade diameter circular saw) or other hand-held circular saw, then YES you would cut that with the good face DOWN. Because the direction of the blade rotation would then cut the face first and any chip-out would occur on the exit-side of the cut on the 'back' of the workpiece. If using a tablesaw or miter/chop saw, if cutting with the piece 'flat' then you would cut with the good face UP as that face would get cut first and any chip-out would again occur on the exit-side of the cut on the 'back' of the workpiece.
I'll say it again. A 'good' crosscut fine-finish blade on a decent miter saw can leave a cut so smooth it looks like it was sanded to about 220 grit. A 'chop' blade can leave a cut that looks like an angry beaver went at it.
YMMV.
