school me on trailer brakes

[Garage5.9]

I have a 2015 dodge ram 3500 and am pulling a zeiman 1190 dual axle trailer rated at 7 tons. today I pulled a takeuchi mini excavator that weighs right about 12k pounds and while pulling I noticed my brakes began to smoke while slowing from about 60 to around 25 or so. what settings on the gain is typical for most trucks with this load ? I had it at around 7 but dropped it to about 5 after I seen it smoke but with it lower it seemed to push through the truck brakes. any advice? also this truck does have a exhaust brake and tow/haul mode

 

[gungatim]

truck brakes or the trailer brakes smoked?

how fast are you trying to stop? With my duramax in tow mode I would always let the truck slow the load down a bit before hitting the brakes much. too high on the gain and you smoke tires when they lock up in slow/city driving...

also what kind of controller are you using? inertia types work better then standard ones. Prodigy is what I prefer. the cheap ones are hard to get adjusted and need re-adjusting all the time, especially if towing a heavy load.

 

[MUD DAWG]

Follow the manufacturers instructions. My last Prodigy said to get upto 25 MPH in an empty parking lot, and adjust the controller to the point where I felt trailer brakes come on first and slow the load, but never locked up. Of course I had to readjust with a lighter load or empty trailer.

 

[Capegls]

Follow the manufacturers instructions. My last Prodigy said to get upto 25 MPH in an empty parking lot, and adjust the controller to the point where I felt trailer brakes come on first and slow the load, but never locked up. Of course I had to readjust with a lighter load or empty trailer.

That's it. That's the safest and most effective way to find your TB level. With that said, some TB controllers are better than others.

 

[kd3pc]

the controller is only as effective as the quality and condition of the trailer brakes...the controller provides more voltage for more/faster brake action...IF the trailer brakes are not up to snuff...they may be binary - either on or off, rather than progressive from little action to a lot of action, as they should be.

Check the trailer brakes...for solid magnets and decent hardware...

"about 12k" on a 14K trailer would expect you to drive in a controlled manor, and if the load is not centered it may be putting more weight in places it should not.

 

[Nor'Easter]

I have a 2015 dodge ram 3500 and am pulling a zeiman 1190 dual axle trailer rated at 7 tons. today I pulled a takeuchi mini excavator that weighs right about 12k pounds and while pulling I noticed my brakes began to smoke while slowing from about 60 to around 25 or so. what settings on the gain is typical for most trucks with this load ? I had it at around 7 but dropped it to about 5 after I seen it smoke but with it lower it seemed to push through the truck brakes. any advice? also this truck does have a exhaust brake and tow/haul mode

Try 6...

If the truck is an auto, use the manual shift control. The exhaust brake actuation timing ***** with the autos. Glad I have a stick.

 

[kerrynzl]

Get rid of the Prodigy and install a "Direclink" controller.
They plug into the OBDII diagnostic port and pick up the signal from the ABS computer.

You'll end up with a true driver controlled proportional controller that responds to brake pedal effort.

And they're cheap

https://www.brakecontroller.com/maxbrake.htm

 

[yaidunno]

Not that it helps with your brake adjustment question, but you were likely just a bit over loaded with that trailer. The closest thing I can find on their website is a 1185 model. Rated for 15,000 and a payload of 12,000 lbs, this tells me that the trailer itself weighs in at around 3,000 lbs empty. Now technically it’s the sprung weight that goes against your GVWR, but that’s getting a bit technical. Playing it safe, you should be able to load around 11,000 lbs on the trailer. I’m sure the manual for the trailer, or perhaps a stamped tag on it will give you the exact number.

 

[paranoid56]

Get rid of the Prodigy and install a "Direclink" controller.
They plug into the OBDII diagnostic port and pick up the signal from the ABS computer.

You'll end up with a true driver controlled proportional controller that responds to brake pedal effort.

And they're cheap

https://www.brakecontroller.com/maxbrake.htm

the prodigy is fine
now this thing, is interesting, but looks like a BS marketing site. no real info.
also looking at all the specs, it doesnt do anything more then the prodigy. other then plug into the odb2 port.

 

[matt_i]

I still run the Jordan Research Brake Controller - has a cabled mechanical "link" to your brake pedal to setup the proportionality. Something drove them out of business, not sure if it was licensing & regulation, lawsuits, or ? Never have had a problem with a 14k gooseneck trailer loaded with nothing or max payload it always seems to behave predictably.

The ALDL thing sounds perfect but wouldn't work on my 29yo tow vehicle though I would probably try to get one that hooks to a pressure transducer that's tapped into the actual brake line pressure.

 

[larry_g]

Personally I would take a look at the brakes. Does this trailer sit a lot of the time allowing the brakes to rust? Is a seal gone allowing lube to leak out and turn to smoke when things get hot? Do you get good braking action + smoke or just smoke and no brakes? are you smoking all the braked wheels or just one? One brake locking up and the skidding tire is smoking?

lg
no neat sig line

 

[kerrynzl]

the prodigy is fine
now this thing, is interesting, but looks like a BS marketing site. no real info.
also looking at all the specs, it doesnt do anything more then the prodigy. other then plug into the odb2 port.

Yes it does more than the prodigy. It is a TRUE driver controlled brake controller [which responds to pedal pressure]

Timed and Proportional controllers have their limitations.

I had a prodigy that was F***en useless on icy/slippery roads because the Tow vehicle couldn't slow down enough[G's] for the motion sensor to proportion enough to the trailer brakes. The tow vehicle was doing all the braking.

On slippery roads a timed controller is better, but they are dangerous in emergency situations.

I switched to one of the now obsolete Maxbrake controllers which measure hydraulic pressure [unfortunately no longer available]
The Maxbrake does everything you command it to do [via the brake pedal pressure]

With a good set-up trailer brake system ,you shouldn't feel the trailer brakes at all.