Scissor Truss Insulation and Propane Heating Advice

[Pheadrus]

I'm looking for advice on insulating my scissor trusses. The garage is 30x38, 10'4.5" 2x6 walls, no windows, 1 man door, 1 14'x9' garage door and the trusses are a 5/12 pitch. I'm not sure on the lower pitch but they give me 3' in the center.
I'm building on a budget so the shell is going up now with heat and wall insulation going in hopefully next summer. The trusses are going up this weekend and then the metal roof needs to go on. The trusses will be strapped with 1x4's.
Time is a factor due to winter coming here(northern Ontario about 30 minutes from the top of MN). If blown in is the best option, do I have to do it before the metal roof goes on? Below is the average temps over a year where I live but with wind chill, it can get down to -40 to -50.
I guess I might as well get advice for heating it in this thread as well. I'm in the country so natural gas isn't an option. I have two badly herniated disc's so wood is out as well. Propane seems to be the only option. What would you guys recommend?
Ideally the garage will be used daily during the winter.

High °F Low °F High °C Low °C
18 -5 January -8 -21
23 0 February -5 -18
33 13 March 1 -11
49 26 April 9 -3
61 36 May 16 2
69 45 June 21 7
76 52 July 24 11
74 51 August 23 10
64 42 September 18 6
50 30 October 10 -1
34 18 November 1 -8
22 3 December -6 -16
48 26 Year 9 -3

 

[Pheadrus]

Re: Scissor Truss Insulation Advice

We typically have 203 days a year when the minimum temperature is at 0 °C/32F or below. The chilliest winter nights have lows below -30 °C (-22 °F). The city averages eight nights a year, mainly in January and February, when the temperature gets that cold.

From October to April, it can remain below freezing all day long. The city typically has 96 days a year during which the temperature never rises above 0 °C/32F.

 

[stm317]

Being that far North, you're likely in climate zone 7, which would target an R value between R30-R60 in a cathedral ceiling. R60 cellulose is 15 inches deep. I haven't done the geometry, but it's likely that the eaves don't have enough height to accomodate that much cellulose, so you'll just have to fill it as much as you can and use baffles or something to avoid covering any soffit vents, etc.

There may be better solutions using an assembly of foam filled panels or something under your roofing, but that's for an expert and your bank account to decide.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Any open flame propane heater will put a lot of moisture in the air.

Insulation is key ! Listen to stm317 !!

Rinnai make some nice direct vent wall heaters. quick and easy to install. Your building is big enough you may need 2 of them.

 

[matt_i]

Roxul batts are very good but will add up in cost initially. As mentioned the heel is the hardest place to insulate. Also air sealing everything you can other than the attic itself will help a lot.

Make sure whatever heat -fuel you use its vented.

 

[kbs2244]

With s vault peak that high I would go with a propane powered radiant tube heater.

 

[Pheadrus]

Thanks for the info. With the Roxul, I can do it next summer. But if I do the cellulose, would I need to do it before the metal roof goes on?

 

[Pheadrus]

Our 110 year old farm house uses heating oil. Another option would be to take our 15 year old oil furance from the house and put it in the garage and switch the house to propane.
We had to put a new double wall tank in a few years ago and the furance still gets around 80% efficiency which for oil is pretty good.