Scissor truss type

[Mark100]

Hello,

I am deciding on trusses for my 34x30 garage build. The wall height is going to be 12'6" from floor. Installing and using a lift should be fine with standard trusses but what are the pros and cons with going with a scissor truss for additional height? I've seen traditional scissor trusses in garages but I came across a different style that I like the looks of. Has anyone used this type?



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[Tim in Indiana]

Hello, I'm a lurker and this is my first post here. I have five pole barns and have scissor trusses in each. Also in my home. As long as the trusses are engineered for your snow and ceiling load they should be fine.

I have used 6/12 exterior and the interior is 3/12 with raised heel for additional insulation depth.

But my trusses are not like your drawing. They are a simple 3/12 interior pitch with no flat in the peak or at the eaves. Plus the 18" heel as I mentioned.

My trusses are on buildings with 12', 14' and 20' tall sidewalls. In my opinion the positives are ceiling height, clearance, etc. I can't think of a negative.

Tim

 

[windward]

I like the look of the scissor trusses, but would miss the additional space I get with my attic trusses. Great place to ride a bunch of junk.


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[CraigStu]

I agree w/ windward. You already have 12'6" walls so plenty of height for a lift unless you will be working on lifted trucks or something unusual. I'd spend the extra for attic trusses and have a ton of new storage room.

 

[GRivera]

I have scissor trusses in my 30x40x12 pole barn - Roof is 4/12 and ceiling is 2/12. I went with them for the additional ceiling height so the building itself wouldn't "overpower" the other houses in my neighborhood. Shirk Pole Buildings did build and the insulation. The scissor truss upgrade was inexpensive but I had to settle for R38 batt-insulation as there isn't adequate room to get good coverage for blown in. If I had to do it again, I would have gone with a 13 or 13.6 wall height and regular trusses. Attic trusses were insanely expensive in my case so not an option for me.

 

[Mark100]

For ease of insulating, a standard truss would probably be the best with blow in insulation. It seems like properly insulating storage trusses and scissor trusses are a bit more involved to do correctly. Down the road, if I need to add electrical in the ceiling, crawling around in scissor trusses wouldn't be fun.
I'm leaning towards using trusses that are rated for storage in case I need the room down the road. Insulate with blow in now and if I run out of space I'll add decking for storage later.


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[jives]

I have scissor trusses with a 9/12 roof pitch and 6/12 ceiling pitch. Yes, it is not the standard 2:1 ratio of roof:ceiling slope. Competent truss designers can do a whole lot, so don't just accept the standard if that is not what you want. We did the steep vaulted ceiling to get height to play basketball. Works awesome, but admittedly, the 20' center height is a pain when it comes to changing bulbs. . . .

 

[Maineshop]

I did scissor trusses in my last shop... Not going to do them again in my new. They work for increased space when you want to limit the outside height (ridge line height). They are more difficult to install the ceiling, and they definitely are more expensive. I'd say base you decision on the exterior appearance you're looking for. If it's in a residential area, personally I don't think the "redneck" 16' shop works real well. Guess it all depends on the look you're going for. Certainly gives you more space inside, but there's a cost. I was 6:12 outside with a 3":12 inside. I don't know if this is true, but they felt stronger than a flat set of trusses I worked with a couple years ago, more stout overall.

As far as insulation goes, we used R50 or something Rock Wool Roxul. Just press fit it up there, then a vapor barrier, then 5/8" drywall, which was a real PITA. If you do insulation bats, you need to use a precut template to get the trusses exactly spaced. That way when you pressure fit your insulation it sticks and doesn't fall down on your head. Makes it easier for drywall installation as well. Be sure to mark the truss location centers on the wall before you put your ceiling material up.

 

[Jackfre]

My 30x34x10 shop has attic trusses. That space is 7x8x30. The roof is 8/12 pitch. I believe they are a 40#/sq ft capable load. I shift all kinds of gear up and down and would not want to be without it. Being light duty I have a 350# fold down AL ladder and I cut a 4' bay out of the 24' c-c trusses which further limits what goes up and down. I put a winch up there to lift awkward material. It is a very valuable space.

 

[Mark100]

D

My 30x34x10 shop has attic trusses. That space is 7x8x30. The roof is 8/12 pitch. I believe they are a 40#/sq ft capable load. I shift all kinds of gear up and down and would not want to be without it. Being light duty I have a 350# fold down AL ladder and I cut a 4' bay out of the 24' c-c trusses which further limits what goes up and down. I put a winch up there to lift awkward material. It is a very valuable space.

Do you have insulation in the ceiling? If so, what type and do you have decking on top?

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[Earp69]

i just had my barn put up with a 6/12 pitch. 1/3rd of it is scissor and the rest is standard truss. the scissor trusses were 3x the price of a standard truss but i believe its worth it if you want it

 

[R6 Racer]

I have 10 ft walls & installed scissor trusses to get more height. IMHO I think 12.5 ft is enough height for a lift. So I would go with normal or storage trusses. Normal being cheaper to buy & to insulate or storage to gain more sq footage of storage.
Personally, I would use storage trusses. Its a very inexpensive way to get storage space, even if it is up high.

Steve

 

[Mgall51]

I am looking to build a barn with 14’ walls and scissor trusses. I am hoping to have enough room to add a mezzanine level. 50x72 barn. Builders says I should be around 18 feet in the middle with a 6/12 pitch.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

I used those trusses on my last house, with 10' sidewalls I needed the extra clearance for my lift.
They are 30' lg with 6/12 top pitch and it gave me 13'-3" clearance in the center.
If you have 12'-6" walls why would you need the extra clearance in the center?

 

[Mark100]

I used those trusses on my last house, with 10' sidewalls I needed the extra clearance for my lift.
They are 30' lg with 6/12 top pitch and it gave me 13'-3" clearance in the center.
If you have 12'-6" walls why would you need the extra clearance in the center?

I shouldn't need more than 12'6" now. I'm just trying to plan for the unknowns which is hard and costly.

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[iSpark]

I shouldn't need more than 12'6" now. I'm just trying to plan for the unknowns which is hard and costly.

I understand that!

I'm currently in the planning phase too.
I'm wanting to build a dettached 32x56x10 using scissor trusses, 8/12 roof pitch and 4/12 ceiling pitch.

 

[bowhuntr311]

I did 6 scissor trusses then followed with attic room trusses. The reason I did this was to fit a 10foot door in the gable end with 10foot side walls. No one told me about coffit trusses before that Unless you've got a plan for the need space above the 12'6 I think your wasting your money with scissor trusses.

Good Luck