Scored a solid core wood door...how to mount?

[BCK]

So I scored a sweet solid core wood door the other day at at a house demo. Gonna make a workbench out of it that i can mount a vise too but have 2 questions for ya'll.

It's gonna be cut down to size from std 80" to 69" to fit my space and I think I may take the glass out and use the square opening as a trash can hole (?). However that depends on answers to question 2...

1) Who's done this before w/ a door and how did you mount it? Purchased heavy duty workbench legs or maybe 4x4's w/ bracing or ?? (Again, this is going to be my pounding surface w/ vise mounted to it...so it has to be strong AND stable)

2) Anyone suggest glueing/screwing a sheet of matching MDF to it and using the MDF as the work surface instead?

Thanks for any suggestions!

 

[bazzateer]

All your ideas sound good to me. I'd go with 4x4s purely because I have no welding kit/skills. Like the trash can hole idea too.

 

[OccupantRJ]

When you get ready to cut it, score it with a utility knife along the cut lines to prevent frazzling. I would look at mounting it to an existing cabinet or toolbox to conserve space. It could be fastened with screws from underneath, or with countersunk bolts through the top.

 

[smedly]

Mine is not freestanding- its more a countertop with legs.
I lag bolted a 2x4 to the wall and put the back edge on it and screwed it down. I had some 2x6 scrap that I doubled up to make the front legs. No cross bracing has been necessary.
The slope in my floor make building a level freestanding bench a challenge.

Only issue is noise from pounding does transfer to the house.

 

[BCK]

Thanks guys! Smedly...I was actually thinking about how I could securely mount it, yet leave as much room underneath as possible without obstruction from crossbracing/legs etc..

I was thinking about building a perimeter "frame" w/ 2x4's lag bolted into the studs through the drywall, then securing the top to the 3 "frame" sections. I suppose I could always gusset/box in the frame at the corners too...but I worried about the center being the weak point. Suppose I could run ribbing 2x4's through too...and just secure the whole thing from the bottom up through the 2x4's and into the door top?

How about adding a sheet of MDf on-top for added strength etc...? Or do you think the door will be strong enough? I do worry about pounding echoing through the house too...but I cant do anything about it until I build my dedicated shop in the corner of our property!

 

[e-tek]

Only issue with MDF is that is ***** water - so if you're going to cover it with something, might as well just cover the door alone with whatever. I like steel, but haven't even got that on mine yet - I've gone with cardboard over MDF because it's easy to replace. I like the hole for garbage can idea - you could even cut a piece of MDF to fit in the hole to have more work surface and not loose anything. As for mounting, I'd build a 4x and 2x base and countersink the bolts - again, unobstructed work surface.

 

[smedly]

The door I have is solid core from a commercial building made up of a particle board/osb type interior. It's near 1-3/4"-2" thick, and I can jump on it in the center with no issues.

I don't know if MDF would add much strength, but it could be a sacrificial layer that can be replaced easily.



All I did for the top is get a can of mistake paint from home depot and I just repaint it every year. Someday I may get a sheet of steel for the top but its fine for now.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Make a frame out of 2x4s. For the legs, sister them so your legs are effectively 4x4. Two ways to go to mount the top: either drill a 5/8" hole halfway through the 2x4 and go up into the door with a 3" wood screw, or just get some sturdy steel L-brackets. It wouldn't hurt to put a line of adhesive on top of the 2x4 while you're at it. If it's possible, use lag bolts to attach the thing to the studs in the wall.

Then pound away.

You could put a sheet of 1/8"-1/4" hardboard on the top. Are you worried about cosmetics?

 

[Bryan Burns]

I've done hardboard in past but it's kinda soft and doesn't have the right feel and character. I think metal would be better than hardboard.

That said, I'm now using oak plywood from Home Depot and I like it a lot. I oiled it with BLO and waxed it and it's developing nice character. That's not too say I'm prissy about it. If I get oil, paint, spray cleaner, etc., on it I don't care. If it gets looking crappy I'll clean it with solvent, sand it and oil and wax it again. That may be years though as it's looking fine after two years.

The only thing better in my opinion would be a solid hardwood top.

 

[BCK]

Thanks guys..all great ideas! Jack I like your mounting ideas w/ wood screws. I may try that, and no, not concerned about cosmetics. This is going to be my bench for breaking-loose/pounding/persuading various automotive and mechanical components etc. As well as a spot to mount a good vise to help w/ said work...

I have an 8' section of laminate countertop mounted on kitchen cabinet bases that serves as my work area directly in front of my '71 Scamp. This is my "precision" bench for doing things like rebuilding carbs or organizing smaller parts & sub-assemblies etc...

Thanks guys! I love how everyone gives good opinions/suggestions here so quickly. What a great resource for someone like me who's just in the "early" stages of getting their garage built/organized how they want it. Saves TONS of time/energy doing a little research here first!

 

[whelenfan]

I've done hardboard in past but it's kinda soft and doesn't have the right feel and character. I think metal would be better than hardboard.

That said, I'm now using oak plywood from Home Depot and I like it a lot. I oiled it with BLO and waxed it and it's developing nice character. That's not too say I'm prissy about it. If I get oil, paint, spray cleaner, etc., on it I don't care. If it gets looking crappy I'll clean it with solvent, sand it and oil and wax it again. That may be years though as it's looking fine after two years.

The only thing better in my opinion would be a solid hardwood top.

I'd like to see a pic of your set-up. I have thought about good plywood for covering my bench.

 

[BCK]

I'd like to see a pic of your set-up. I have thought about good plywood for covering my bench.

Me too...

 

[Bryan Burns]

Here're some pics but the bench top is a mess being it's winter and my garage is unheated.
View media item 8118View media item 8119View media item 8120

 

[Jack Olsen]

The plywood looks pretty good.

I have a solid core door for my main bench. I stained it recently and put marine varnish on it. It still gets beaten on, but to protect it I have a mat on top and steel banding along the edge.

 

[BCK]

Thanks Bryan & Jack! Love the finishes on your benches.

Bryan - That bench top supports that big Prentiss just fine eh..?

Jack - 2 questions...

How did you install that steel band? Did you just cut it to fit? Those look like rivets on the side?

Also - Is that mat on top inlaid? Looks flush w/ the surface...

Thanks!
Brian

 

[Jack Olsen]

How did you install that steel band? Did you just cut it to fit? Those look like rivets on the side?

I just bought two 48" lengths and drilled holes and ran screws through them into the wood. I think I also put in a line of adhesive. Then I bent the edges along the sides. Later, when I had to shorten the bench, I just used a hammer to re-wrap the steel around the edge and (more or less) flatten it out.

Also - Is that mat on top inlaid? Looks flush w/ the surface...

No. That would be cool, though. It's just a roll of something I found at the hardware store. I think people use it to protect floors or carpets in hallways. It sits on top of the bench. I think the photo just happens to make it look flush.

 

[Rixter58]

My benches all have solidcore doors as tops. I mounted mine by running a bead of liquid nail to mating surfaces and then used 8 L-brackets. Overkill? Probably, but thats the way I roll.

 

[zoomzoomjeff]

Make a frame out of 2x4s. For the legs, sister them so your legs are effectively 4x4.

That's what I did for my workbench. I made everything for the frame out of 2x4's because they were cheap. Where I needed a 4x4, I just glued them together, ran them through a table saw to square up the edges (mearly for looks). When I had the frame made, I set a sheet of 3/4" MDF with formica on both sides to the top of the frame I built, and screwed it down. I love this surface because
1) it's fairly durable
2) I write notes and measurements on it all the time and they can be erased with brake cleaner
3) dried glue from woodworking glue-ups scrapes right off
4) it's cheap and sacrificial so I can flip it over and eventually replace it for cheap. I've had mine ten years and am just about to flip it over since it's showing wear.

I also created an overhang of about 4" so I can clamp stuff down to the table when needed. I prefer the method of screwing the top down to the frame vs screwing it in from the side legs, because the frame gives it more surface area to support heavy loads on top. I've had 500lb engine blocks on there with no problem.

 

[Bryan Burns]

Bryan - That bench top supports that big Prentiss just fine eh..?

Thanks!
Brian

My workbench is actually a massive wood desk that came out of a factory (Barrett Electronics Corporation) in the 1970's. It sat in my parent's garage and was just being used as a table until the early 90's when I heard they were going to throw it out. I rescured it and it's been my garage workbench in three residences. Even my townhouse which had a deep one car garage.

It has sold mahoghony drawer fronts, a maple frame and solid brass drawer knobs. I figure the desk is circa 1940. It weighs a couple hundred pounds and supports the Prentiss vice really well.

Here a shot of it:

View media item 8132

 

[BCK]

Jack, Rixter, Bryan and Jeff (and everyone else who's chimed in!)- Thanks for your quick and informative replies. I've now got a "game plan" in my head incorporating alot of great ideas...

Cant say it enough. I love this forum, and everyone is so eager to help eachother out!