Scored this Bridgeport

[RoninB4]

The shank on the ford marked boring head is larger than a R8 shank and it is also tapered.
My machine takes the R8s.

-My failing eyesight was correct about the taper. If you can determine which taper it is (I can help) you can put that on E-vil Bay and get a few bucks for it. Everybody has R-8 for sale and most shopper will buy new Chinesium collets for cheap. You likely have either a B&S, MT, or Jarno taper. The few owners of machines with those tapers are always on the lookout for these as no new ones are being made. This is especially true for what you have as it has a boring head and it looks like it can be removed for a different cutter to be mounted on it. It may take a little longer for the buyer to find yours but I can about guarantee someone wants it. No point having it around as it won't fit or be useful to you so get a few bucks for some much needed tooling for yourself.

IIRC you can take off one handle and that end plate on the table, crank a few turns on the other handle and get some room to paint both end plates without getting it on the table. Either that or just tape off the table where it meets the table, probably easier that way now that coffee is kicking in. Like the color you chose much better than the lime green it came in.

 

[hobie18]

How heavy is that machine? A bit surprised the conduit held. I know it was 1" but...

 

[LopezBart]

How heavy is that machine? A bit surprised the conduit held. I know it was 1" but...

Bridgeports are just under 3000 lbs iirc. I've picked mine up (carefully) w/ a 2 ton engine hoist to position it; the narrow base lets the legs of the hoist go on either side.

 

[elmer]

-My failing eyesight was correct about the taper. If you can determine which taper it is (I can help) you can put that on E-vil Bay and get a few bucks for it. Everybody has R-8 for sale and most shopper will buy new Chinesium collets for cheap. You likely have either a B&S, MT, or Jarno taper. The few owners of machines with those tapers are always on the lookout for these as no new ones are being made. This is especially true for what you have as it has a boring head and it looks like it can be removed for a different cutter to be mounted on it. It may take a little longer for the buyer to find yours but I can about guarantee someone wants it. No point having it around as it won't fit or be useful to you so get a few bucks for some much needed tooling for yourself.

IIRC you can take off one handle and that end plate on the table, crank a few turns on the other handle and get some room to paint both end plates without getting it on the table. Either that or just tape off the table where it meets the table, probably easier that way now that coffee is kicking in. Like the color you chose much better than the lime green it came in.

RoninB4 thanks for taking the time to respond to my thread.
I don't think I will take the time right now to put the boring head up for sale but here are some more detailed photos any way.

 

[RoninB4]

RoninB4 thanks for taking the time to respond to my thread.
I don't think I will take the time right now to put the boring head up for sale but here are some more detailed photos any way.

-The taper has to be calculated along a defined length. Make two marks with a sharpie as measuring points, measure the length, and then the diameter at each mark. A caliper is fine, no need to be too fussy but a .*** reading should be good enough. I can be contacted by PM if/when you're ready. You know where to find me.

 

[Steve from Socal]

-The taper has to be calculated along a defined length. Make two marks with a sharpie as measuring points, measure the length, and then the diameter at each mark. A caliper is fine, no need to be too fussy but a .*** reading should be good enough. I can be contacted by PM if/when you're ready. You know where to find me.

From where I sit it looks to be a MT4 with SIP mount, I have tons of SIP tooling and that square at the base was the give away along with the 'SIP" on the body!

 

[RoninB4]

From where I sit it looks to be a MT4 with SIP mount, I have tons of SIP tooling and that square at the base was the give away along with the 'SIP" on the body!

-You could be right, the numbers will tell the tale.

OT: Out of curiosity, what is the taper for a SIP? What machine do you have? The reason I ask is because I have a jig borer (Mitsui/Seiki 4B) that's supposed to be an direct knockoff from a SIP and I always wondered if the Japanese had copied/used the same taper or decided to "innovate" with something else or specified by the original purchaser (large Japanese corporation). Contact me by PM if you wish to avoid clogging the thread with "shop talk" that would likely bore (pun unintended) others.

 

[elmer]

-The taper has to be calculated along a defined length. Make two marks with a sharpie as measuring points, measure the length, and then the diameter at each mark. A caliper is fine, no need to be too fussy but a .*** reading should be good enough. I can be contacted by PM if/when you're ready. You know where to find me.

Thanks for trying to teach me something about tapers.

 

[Steve from Socal]

The SIP tooling for many SIP jig bores is a MT-4 with a 14MM internal thread for a draw bar. That is for much of the smaller spindle tooling. I have some large boring bars with collars that mount on the outside of the spindle and use a straight shank to draw tight.

 

[RoninB4]

By the numbers posted:
1.224" x 1.068" along 3" / 2 = 1.489° (angle from centerline)

This, along with the diameters would put this in the MT 4 (Morse/machine taper) category.

Your numbers don't exactly match the chart below but that's to be expected with less-than-precise measurements but they're likely close enough to match the chart. The only time(s) that "close enough" isn't good enough if if the numbers are way out of proportion in diameter or angle. When this happens there might be a special taper involved for proprietary purposes (parts sales). Here, it's supposed to be a type of universal tool holder for machinery that would have aftermarket tooling so I can't see something special being made/used. Also, with toolholders the shank length doesn't mean as much either. Makers are prone to make longer/shorter length shanks, it's the diameter range and the angle that's important. If something special is used, like on a Moore jig borer/grinder, there will be a clear difference (square male thread on end). With other less seen brands (Linley, P&W, Leitz, etc.) there's reading needed to determine exactly what was used and when it was used.

 

[RoninB4]

The SIP tooling for many SIP jig bores is a MT-4 with a 14MM internal thread for a draw bar. That is for much of the smaller spindle tooling. I have some large boring bars with collars that mount on the outside of the spindle and use a straight shank to draw tight.

- The SIP 3K is listed as using a MT 2 spindle taper, the 4G lists a MT 4. The Mitsui-Seiki 4B brochure (lathes.uk) lists it as using a MT 3 taper. By weight, the 4B is in between the 3K and the 4G. I don't recall what the manual (original) that came with the machine states. I haven't taken the time to compare table size/travel or height as it would only generate further machine envy for a SIP.

 

[elmer]

By the numbers posted:
1.224" x 1.068" along 3" / 2 = 1.489° (angle from centerline)

This, along with the diameters would put this in the MT 4 (Morse/machine taper) category.

Your numbers don't exactly match the chart below but that's to be expected with less-than-precise measurements but they're likely close enough to match the chart. The only time(s) that "close enough" isn't good enough if if the numbers are way out of proportion in diameter or angle. When this happens there might be a special taper involved for proprietary purposes (parts sales). Here, it's supposed to be a type of universal tool holder for machinery that would have aftermarket tooling so I can't see something special being made/used. Also, with toolholders the shank length doesn't mean as much either. Makers are prone to make longer/shorter length shanks, it's the diameter range and the angle that's important. If something special is used, like on a Moore jig borer/grinder, there will be a clear difference (square male thread on end). With other less seen brands (Linley, P&W, Leitz, etc.) there's reading needed to determine exactly what was used and when it was used.

Ok thanks for the education and thanks for taking the time.

 

[alfadan]

Deleted

 

[dutchgray]

Bridgeports are just under 3000 lbs iirc. I've picked mine up (carefully) w/ a 2 ton engine hoist to position it; the narrow base lets the legs of the hoist go on either side.

A standard Bridgeport is about 2,100 lbs

 

[LopezBart]

A standard Bridgeport is about 2,100 lbs

I stand corrected; thanks. 1k lbs less will come in handy when moving my lathe and mill to our new shop.

- Bart

 

[Stubby1743]

This should help with identifying Morse tapers.

 

[whateg01]

... Post a photo of the Flynn if you don't mind, would like to see it.

 

[RoninB4]

S'nice. About 99% of the time I've bored a hole a simple boring head like yours worked just fine. It's been a rare occasion that I needed a Wohlhaupter or Narex type boring/facing head, which are real nice but quite expensive. Thank you for the photo.

 

[OccupantRJ]

@elmer, anything new on the Bridgeport adventure?

 

[no704]

Gave the Bridgeport a quick paint job mostly because I couldn't stand the green color.
Put a strap around the base and drug it off the trailer. Put some 1" conduit under it and rolled it into the corner.
I don't have time now so it will have to wait to set it up and get it working.

Missed a couple spots!

 

[elmer]

@elmer, anything new on the Bridgeport adventure?

Missed a couple spots!

I have it powered up and running. Lenze vector VFD. Used it on a couple simple aluminum projects. Still need to tear it down and clean out the grease. Probably gonna put casters on it next to make it easier to move around and take apart. Will finish the paint when its apart.