I'm trying to tackle getting my deck prepped for re-staining and it's not going well. The part pictured gets little sun as it is next to north wall of garage and to make it worse, I didn't put any spacing between the planks when I built it, believing the wood would shrink and leave a gap. That works for the area that sees direct sunlight but in 10 years, the small/none gap in this area just clogged with debris and water drainage was poor.. When scraping, some areas the stain/paint just peels off in large pieces and is wet underneath. If it all peeled up that easy, I wouldn't mind but it's not consistent. The last time I stained it, I used this extra thick stuff that was really paint, even though it was called stain. I think that was a mistake. I went down each gap with the circular saw to clean it out and widen it a bit, so it should drain better now. I plan to scrape it all off and let it dry out over the winter but hand scraping the whole thing is just notgonnahappen.com... I would think any type of sanding would clogg up the paper real quick. Any ideas on tackling this without scraping on hands & knees?
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Scraping paint on deck...
- Thread starter MikeC55
- Start date
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Flip the boards. Gives you a chance to gap them too.
Replace any that break or are rotted.
Replace any that break or are rotted.
Shiftless
Well-known member
How about renting a floor sander? Some 36 grit should skim off that “stain” pretty quickly. You’re right about not painting a deck. That thick stain looks like paint doesn’t it?
Are all of your screws below the surface? I know that would be tedious, but before sanding you should check each one and tighten them up. You have a cordless impact driver with a square bit right?
edit: If you go to the trouble of removing the boards, instead of flipping the boards like Mike just suggested, you could go ********* GJ style and run all of them through a 12 inch planer.
Are all of your screws below the surface? I know that would be tedious, but before sanding you should check each one and tighten them up. You have a cordless impact driver with a square bit right?
edit: If you go to the trouble of removing the boards, instead of flipping the boards like Mike just suggested, you could go ********* GJ style and run all of them through a 12 inch planer.
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Stelzer
Well-known member
I strip lots of decks & fences, but if you're well versed with chems, you could apply sodium hydroxide, let it dwell, then power wash off at about 1,200 psi, then follow it up with oxalic acid to not only neutralize the pH, but also brighten the wood, since sodium hydroxide will naturally darken the wood.
Other option is to countersink all nails & screws, then go to HD and rent a floor sander. If you have a bunch of spindles/balusters on the perimeter, you'd also need an edging sander though, (which gets you on your hands & knees). Even if you don't have spindles/balusters on the perimeter, this can be a risky endeavor if you haven't worked with floor sanders before, (at least if you're renting the drum sander), since it can take off a lot of material in a hurry. They also carry the orbitals, which may or may not be aggressive enough for your application, depending upon how much material needs to be removed. Regardless, you'd still be relegated to hands & knees work on the edging, which is far more time consuming than doing the bulk with a big standup sander.
Other option is to countersink all nails & screws, then go to HD and rent a floor sander. If you have a bunch of spindles/balusters on the perimeter, you'd also need an edging sander though, (which gets you on your hands & knees). Even if you don't have spindles/balusters on the perimeter, this can be a risky endeavor if you haven't worked with floor sanders before, (at least if you're renting the drum sander), since it can take off a lot of material in a hurry. They also carry the orbitals, which may or may not be aggressive enough for your application, depending upon how much material needs to be removed. Regardless, you'd still be relegated to hands & knees work on the edging, which is far more time consuming than doing the bulk with a big standup sander.
Stelzer
Well-known member
Power sanding often requires countersinking all fasteners more than once, just fyi.
Eff that....Flip the boards. Gives you a chance to gap them too.
Replace any that break or are rotted.
If I go through that much effort new boards are going down. No sense in re-attaching half rotted lumber.
OP, try a pressure washer?
Hand scraping ***** when you use a bad scraper. A good scraper makes all the difference. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQWPOM/?tag=atomicindus08-20 is the best one I've found. Carry a file and give it a couple passes often to keep it sharp.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Same here.Eff that....
If I go through that much effort new boards are going down. No sense in re-attaching half rotted lumber.
Stelzer
Well-known member
This Bahco one is much better, have you tried it? Comes with a sheath which I find very handy, since I'm often on ladders while scraping, so having a home for the scraper while not in use is great. Very sharp, strong steel. I bet I have at least 30 different scrapers and this is at least 5 times better than the 2nd best.Hand scraping ***** when you use a bad scraper. A good scraper makes all the difference. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQWPOM/?tag=atomicindus08-20 is the best one I've found. Carry a file and give it a couple passes often to keep it sharp.
This is the scraper
Iv
I've had carbide scrapers. I would describe them as "stays dull longer". It's got a nicer handle.This Bahco one is much better, have you tried it? Comes with a sheath which I find very handy, since I'm often on ladders while scraping, so having a home for the scraper while not in use is great. Very sharp, strong steel. I bet I have at least 30 different scrapers and this is at least 5 times better than the 2nd best.
This is the scraper
A couple years ago when I replaced a cracked plank, getting the screws out was not easy. Some snapped and others cammed out. If removing the planks, I'd go with new ones. The sodium hydroxide with pressure was sounds interesting. How long do you let it dwell and where do you buy it? Otherwise, a better scraper is in my future...
CraigStu
Well-known member
I am too lazy. No way I would even consider hand scraping a deck. Either power sand it or pressure wash it. You can rent the equipment to try it. Pay attention to Stelzer's warning about sanders taking off a lot in a hurry. A friend found that out and ended up w/ a wavy surface where it sanded an 1/8inch deep in a couple spots and he had to go back and blend in those lows.
hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
With lumber prices close to normal it may be just about as cheap just to replace all the boards than it would be to rent special tools or chemicals and spend a bunch of time with that. Then you can fix your gapping issue. I think it might be just as quick and then you'd have a fresh deck for probably not much more money. Even though that's probably not what you want to hear. But scraping that pseudo paint it's going to be a pain no matter how you go about it.
Stelzer
Well-known member
I've had hundreds of carbide scrapers from painting for the last 35 years and this is far and away the best I've used. Hundreds, not 5 or 10.Iv
I've had carbide scrapers. I would describe them as "stays dull longer". It's got a nicer handle.
Not trying to change minds here, just sharing my experience. Bahco's regular carbide 2.5" blade is nothing special, but these triangle ones are in a league of their own.
The biggest reason I like steel is because it's so easy to sharpen, a couple swipes with a file and it's sharp. Sure carbide will last longer, maybe 5 minutes instead of 1 minute before you need to sharpen it. But how do you sharpen the carbide?I've had hundreds of carbide scrapers from painting for the last 35 years and this is far and away the best I've used. Hundreds, not 5 or 10.
Not trying to change minds here, just sharing my experience. Bahco's regular carbide 2.5" blade is nothing special, but these triangle ones are in a league of their own.
Stelzer
Well-known member
1 side of a triangle blade will last 2-3 exterior paint jobs where intensive scraping is done. That's 6-9 homes after rotating the blade every few jobs, (roughly $100k), for an $11 blade. Taking time to sharpen it at that point is stepping over dollars for dimes. I've always been pretty indifferent about carbide blades until this, since they never really impressed me after the first few minutes were up. Not with this.The biggest reason I like steel is because it's so easy to sharpen, a couple swipes with a file and it's sharp. Sure carbide will last longer, maybe 5 minutes instead of 1 minute before you need to sharpen it. But how do you sharpen the carbide?
As stated, keep what you have if it works for you, but unless you've used this scraper, you don't know how good a scraper can get, nor are you fit to compare it to anything else. I do this for a living and live and breath by utilizing the most efficient tools and systems and I'm always on the lookout for a better mousetrap. This is that.
Thanks guys, it's certainly worth $33 to try it. It isn't like the only time I'll have to scrape something either. I hoping the larger part of the deck that does get regular sun won't need much scraping. I'd consider replacing the planks if I was planning to stay here but am planning to sell in another 6 months or so. And structurally, they're in good shape (PT 2 x 6, not deck planking)
Well I may give it a try. I am still skeptical of not needing sharpening throughout a job. When I am scraping I keep a file in my pocket and give it a couple swipes as often as every minute. A sharp scraper make it light work1 side of a triangle blade will last 2-3 exterior paint jobs where intensive scraping is done. That's 6-9 homes after rotating the blade every few jobs, (roughly $100k), for an $11 blade. Taking time to sharpen it at that point is stepping over dollars for dimes. I've always been pretty indifferent about carbide blades until this, since they never really impressed me after the first few minutes were up. Not with this.
As stated, keep what you have if it works for you, but unless you've used this scraper, you don't know how good a scraper can get, nor are you fit to compare it to anything else. I do this for a living and live and breath by utilizing the most efficient tools and systems and I'm always on the lookout for a better mousetrap. This is that.
It's fairly well known that carbide in general won't take as good of an edge as steel. The carbide edge will crumble. But the duller edge will last longer
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Stelzer
Well-known member
Don't change a thing then. You've already got it all figured out.Well I may give it a try. I am still skeptical of not needing sharpening throughout a job. When I am scraping I keep a file in my pocket and give it a couple swipes as often as every minute. A sharp scraper make it light work
It's fairly well known that carbide in general won't take as good of an edge as steel. The carbide edge will crumble. But the duller edge will last longer
But why the difference? Carbide is often advertised as 10x the life. I've never heard 10,000x or 100,000x longer lifeDon't change a thing then. You've already got it all figured out.
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Stelzer
Well-known member
I honestly am done with this conversation. I tried to give insights on the most useful tool for scraping based off my painting for the last 35 years. I did my best to explain what sets this tool apart as well as stating I've used countless other scrapers, none of which are comparable. I've used the ones you mentioned hundreds of times. Evidently that's not enough for you. It's the magic pixies in the carbide they use for those delta blades, coupled with the convex grind. Use them or don't. Life will continue for us both either way.But why the difference? Carbide is often advertised as 10x the life. I've never heard 10,000x or 100,000x longer life
Just fyi, you can Google my company name, Stelzer Painting Inc., and see that I've been in business since the 90's, but had painted for other contractors long before that. I'm also a Mod on PaintTalk. Also easily confirmed by going there and reading any number of the thousands of posts I've made trying to help others. If that isn't enough to give you some assurance that there's a decent chance I know what I'm talking about, then I'm not sure what else to say.
Peruse PaintTalk all you want but please don't try to join unless you're a professional painter. Judging by your comments and your inability to grasp anything other than old tools/methods, I'm fairly certain you're not. I'm all done here. Good luck to you.
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