Screen Door To Security Door?

[D45]

I have a screen door from my garage addition, going into an enclosed patio

For thermal reasons and security reasons, I would like to figure out if I can add a legitimate door, to help retain heat in the winter and to add a higher level of security

Here is the current door:

What are my options to a better fitment/seal?

I am thinking that a bottom threshold will greatly help with sealing up the garage, but see how it is uneven at the bottom? Will this be an issue?

Here is what it looks like on the other side of the door, into the enclosed patio:

Far away shot of the door:

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Install an exterior out swing door, I'd go pre-hung.

 

[kd3pc]

security will be limited by the attachment of the frame...not much there to use.

A sweep should be easy to add to close the gap....

bests

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

A pre hung door will have a threshold and it will need to sit level. You can make up the difference with a fine sand cement product, depending on the thickness of the largest gap. Or you can rip a pressure treated 2x and screw it to the concrete and build the door from there. Hope that helps.

 

[D45]

I did install an adjustable door sweep on to the bottom of the door, it seems to help a tad

I just feel that a lot of heat transfers and passes through the window and door in the winter, and adding a household type storm door would be nice

 

[D45]

 

[D45]

I am going to put a level on the concrete and see what it shows

Either the concrete is level or the door jam is level

Either the wall jam and be shimmed or the floor can be shimmed

 

[D45]

I wonder if drilling some holes in the concrete and adding a threshold would do anything

 

[JackAndy]

You could get one of those steel security doors from Menards that are essentially like welded pig iron bars with glass behind them. I don't think any of them are double pane so they wouldn't add much thermal protection but they'd add a measure of security. There might be a window laminate or something that helps with the heat loss.

I actually have a 1959 'screen door' or storm door. Its thin and mounts to the outside of the frame like a regular screen door, but its solid wood. You might search around on Craigslist and see if you can find something like that.

 

[D45]

I guess security concerns are my #2 concern.........I would prefer having better thermal retention

I am going to check the screen door and the door's frame, it should have some sort of adhesive "felt" weather-stripping, right?

 

[Jmonnty]

What is the thickness of the 1" or 1-3/8?

 

[D45]

What is the thickness of the 1" or 1-3/8?

Thickness of......... the current door?

 

[Jmonnty]

Yes, rabbet depth determines what you can go back with if you were to replace it.

 

[D45]

Yes, rabbet depth determines what you can go back with if you were to replace it.

It's an 1" thick door, just measured

There is also that felt weather-stripping on the frame

 

[Jmonnty]

That limits what you can do but look at these. The automatic bottom can account for the less than level floor, just make sure the hinge is secure.

https://www.ngp.com/product-detail/?productId=487&catId=2&subcategory1Id=175

 

[D45]

The door is marked Larson, which I know of the brand

The door is definitely a lower end garage model.......probably around 20 years old

I wonder if buying a installing a newer door would be more efficient (or will they all be the same) and then installing a bottom threshold to seal it up

 

[D45]

The current door is 1" thick, and the door itself is 35-1/2" x 80"

So I assume this is considered to be a 36x80 door

The door says Larson but the frame says Mastercraft

Are all storm doors going to be the same, nothing new in technology for efficiency?

 

[Jmonnty]

The current door is 1" thick, and the door itself is 35-1/2" x 80"

So I assume this is considered to be a 36x80 door

The door says Larson but the frame says Mastercraft

Are all storm doors going to be the same, nothing new in technology for efficiency?

3/0x6/8 nominal

Can you get a picture of how the jamb in fastened in?
Rough opening on a standard HM jamb in stick framing is 40"x82"

You could put a hollow metal door, with 1" or 5/8" insulated glass it would change the energy demand significantly, and increase your security.

 

[D45]

Yes, I will get some pics of the sides where the frame is mounted

It looks like there is about a 1" gap (room) behind the door (towards the stair going into the patio). Maybe this would allow for a better door

 

[D45]

 

[D45]

 

[D45]

I will put a level on the door frame and also on the concrete step........but I think the walls and frame are going to be level

 

[D45]

Well it looks like the concrete is level and the top of the door frame is dead level.

Both sides of the frame are also pretty level, definitely within the bubble

 

[D45]

The door opening looks the be 36x82, even though the door is 80".........so I really think I will be able to install a prehung steel door

 

[D45]

I am cheap, very cheap..........so I have actually looked around on Craigslist and found some 36x80" steel doors

What is going to be the installation differences for a door compared to a pre-hung.....it is going to make the installation THAT much faster, just to pony up and get a pre-hung?

 

[D45]

I found a local small business, that has a huge surplus of pre-hung, steel doors that they are trying to sell cheap to clear room for new doors in 2018

I am going to take a look this weekend and see what they have..........I figure as long as I get a new steel door in the same size as my current screen door, I should be ok

Here are the brands they have:

Entry Doors - Albany, Benchmark, Castlegate

Storm doors - Gerkin, Foxweld, Homeguard, Seaway

Steel Security Doors - Homeguard

They have a few dozen in 80"x36" and they said all of the entry doors are 1" and 3/4"

 

[D45]

Well, it's time to start on this project...…...so everything is installed, painted, sealed and caulked before cold weather season starts

I am going to remove the screen door and the frame, and take some measurements

I know what size door I have, but need to measure for rough openings for the storm door

My main goal is to have better thermal qualities, than what my $100 thin door currently offers...…..I think a threashold will be the key here, since I don't have one right now

Obviously a door with no windows will be the best for keeping the heat in the garage, but it will also block some natural sunlight from the attached 3 seasons room......decisions, decisions!!

 

[D45]

Fiberglass, wood, or steel?

Which will be better and why?

I do not want this to be a $500+ project

https://www.homedepot.com/c/buying_exterior_doors_HT_BG_DW

 

[D45]

I just checked the concrete footer, and its dead level

So....in reality and pre-hung door should so in pretty quick and simple

Are the threasholds that come with prehung door aluminum? I definitely do not want wood

 

[D45]

Screen door is out..........took about 30 minutes to carefully remove it

Framing looks good and solid, with treated wood being on the vertical sides

I went and got some colored matched red paint to match any wood trim I may need to install

Looks like I need a Left Handed Outswing door

 

[D45]

I assume I will have to anchor the threshold into the concrete footer...…...drill holes and use tapcons?

I also assume I should seal the underneath side of the threshold...……….clear silicon or?

 

[D45]

I have been shopping around, and really like the half window with the blinds build inside the window

They are not all that pricey, and might be a good option to consider

 

[D45]

Door and door frame are off...…..took like 10 minutes, haha

I also removed three pieces of white painted 1" thick trim boards, that the door and frame were anchored to

I think I am also going to remove the top and side red painted 1"x4" boards, on the inside of the open/exposed frame...this will give me almost 2" wider rough in area (11/16" per board)

I can see a 2x4 back on the right, which is pressure treated

My main concern now is the depth on top the concrete footer to the back of the patio step...……….only 3-1/2". Will this be ok for a prehung door with an aluminum threshold?

 

[D45]

According to Menards, a 36x80 door requires the following rough in opening:

38-1/4" W x 82" H and Brick Opening: 40" W x 82-3/4" H

So, I have to definitely removed the inner 1x4 boards to open it up

 

[D45]

 

[D45]

The left hand, outswing was a special order from Menards, took 4 days to get in

Aluminum sill, primed frame, internal blinds with half window

Two coats of semi gloss on the frame took longer to paint than it did to install the door

Going to find some trim and paint it red to match the paneling

$50 lever handle and deadbolt set, to match the satin nickel hinges

Very happy with the project

 

[kbs2244]

If your main concern is thermal just put a piece of pool noodle on the vertical inside face of the door so that it squeezes against the deck band board.
If a noodle is too thick use some of that foam pipe insulation.

Silicone caulk will do fine as a glue.

 

[D45]

No concerns now that I have a more legit door, compared to the thin screen door with no thermal properties

 

[D45]

All the gaps were foamed, trim installed and painted, nail holes filled and re-painted

VERY VERY happy with the fit and finish and the outcome of the project

 

[JackAndy]

Looks very professional.