Screw Extractors

[engnerdan]

I usually weld a nut on or drill out broken off bolts but I have 2 that I think an extractor would work best on and was looking at the Irwin Multi spline extractors.

Found Here

Anybody got anything good or bad to say about HOW THEY PERFORM?

Thanks,
Dan

 

[Kevin54]

Not bad for the money, but shop around. Irwin is starting to crop up everywhere now. Menards now carries a lot of Irwin items. So the more places that carry them the more the prices will vary.

 

[eschoendorff]

Not bad for the money, but shop around. Irwin is starting to crop up everywhere now. Menards now carries a lot of Irwin items. So the more places that carry them the more the prices will vary.

Probably because almost nothing branded Irwin is made in the United States anymore.

 

[sharpe427]

They work well if you have enough free room to work the drill. They work best at slower speeds. If you want one a little easier to use, try this type with the drill made into the extractor, available in many sizes and work well. Sears sells them, as do others...

http://www.aldn.com/drillout/

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I have a Snap-on set of extractors just like that irwin set (except 25-piece) and i have to say, although i haven't used them a lot they are extremely good. of course, they're not meant for huge torque loads, but they can handle a lot and bite well. for things like rounded-out hex and torx socket head screws on brake disks for example, they work a treat.

i've used mine on various fixings, and they've never let me down. definitely money well spent.

 

[engnerdan]

Well it does not look like I get to buy any right now, nobody had them locally that I could find. So a friend will just bring his home from work tomorrow.
For tonight I am going to try the welded nut method and see if that works.
-Dan

 

[Elroy]

Elroy has worked on more than a few old pieces of old equipment (commonly called an old POS) and can assure you that the best kind of screw extractor are the "square shank" style. The problem with these "left hand" style of easy-outs is that they tend to expand the broken off part making removal all that more difficult. The square style also allows you to drive the broken part deeper to help work in lube and break the rust bond. Can't do that "rocking" trick with a left hand extractor.

 

[Danglerb]

I've got a set of small Alden micrograbbits, but only thing I've had a chance to use is a $7 set I picked up at HF. Reverse drill, then I gave the extractor a couple whacks to "seat" it, and used a pair of cresent wrenches since I don't have one of those T things yet. Worked.

I've no plans to be be very brave with torque on the extractor, time and goop first.

 

[nissan_crawler]

We use Hansen ones at work, which are like the Irwin ones you posted.

#1. I've worn the splines off probably 50 of them, never had one break.

#2. Get your hole deep enough the first time. If you don't, you'll have to go even deeper the second time than you should have the first time.

#3. Don't get the ones with a bit on them. You will kill the bit LONG before the extractor wears out. I would say I kill at least 100 drill bits on stainless and cad screws before one extractor wears out. I've extracted 3-400 screws in a single day before, and the extractor will last through all of them.

 

[eschoendorff]

#3. Don't get the ones with a bit on them. You will kill the bit LONG before the extractor wears out. I would say I kill at least 100 drill bits on stainless and cad screws before one extractor wears out. I've extracted 3-400 screws in a single day before, and the extractor will last through all of them.

Good to know...

 

[83diesel]

If round the teeth off the extractor of breaking the extractor concerns you, our Matco and SO guys warranty their extractors and Hansens. Their extractors are made by Hansen. If you go through enough sets of them you will eventually find one with the label misprinted on the extractor itself. I have had the best luck with the Hansen style over any other style.

Always try to drill throught the broken bolt/stud if possible, it will weaken the bond of the broken peice to the trheads that they are stuck on.

For really seized broken bolts that have been broken for years and have been sitting in the Rustbelt, use a tig welder to weld a nut on the broken bolt, the tig allows you to concentrate the heat on the bolt and get the nut welded stronger than the other processes. The heating from the welder and with the disposable nut it seems to work like a charm for the impossible broken bolts. This was the only way we got bolts out on old Cummins engines when I lived in the midwest. If the nut breaks off, than weld it on again, it will eventually come out. Good luck.

 

[Danglerb]

I think the concern isn't the cost of replacing the extractor, but that now you have a hardened tool steel extractor broken in hole to get out before you get to the bolt.