Screw tips for impact driver and 3” drywall screws?

[Itsjustdirt]

What tips do you prefer for a no. 2 Phillips on an impact driver. Mostly driving drywall and cabinet screws.

Dewalt- never again. None of them
Milwaukee- meh
Bosch- meh

Thanks!

 

[nbpt100]

I have done ok with Dewalt and Kobalt bits from Lowes. But I am not a daily users.

 

[boiler7904]

I have a bunch of Milwakee Shockwave but I always seem to reach for the small Wiha set I picked up on clearance at Home Depot a couple of years ago.

 

[mobiledynamics]

3 inch drywall screws ? I would never use PH for that

USE better head screws. Square drive or torx heads...GRK's are my mainstay

Only time I'm using PH or slotted is for finished work like exposed screws on door hinges, etc...

 

[nadogail]

I would prefer Robertson or Torx headed screws.

What are you driving the screws into?

Have you tried waxing the screws before driving them? Wax on the threads works wonders.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

They are consumable. When they wear out I pitch them. When the bit doesn't seat properly (maybe a weird angle, less than perfect screw, or just getting in a hurry) it is easy to mess up the tip.
I do agree that it seemed like the Dewalts didn't last as long as others.
I've had some Irwin bits that seemed to hold up well and have been happy with Milwaukee as well.

 

[BillK]

I have found that you pretty much have to check every different brand of screw and find the bit that fits it correctly. I probably have at least 10 different #2's exactly for that reason. You never know which one will fit the best.

 

[Jackfre]

Phillips head was a big advance from slotted, but has been surpassed by Sq drive and torn. There is more bearing surface on the latter. If I was trying to neatly drive 3” drywall screws I’d pre-drill them. Or, I throw them out and go to the store for some Tory. I prefer the GRK brand.

 

[rayra]

3 inch drywall screws ? I would never use PH for that

USE better head screws. Square drive or torx heads...GRK's are my mainstay

Only time I'm using PH or slotted is for finished work like exposed screws on door hinges, etc...

That's a good point. the 3" drywall screw **** available today will likely snap long before they are fully seated and especially when seating, particularly in old wood.


I'm having a good run with Makita's gold-anodized driver bits. Milwaukee Shockwave 5-packs are my usual. The tips on both seem to hold up very well.

 

[Skiff Builder]

I would prefer Robertson or Torx headed screws.

What are you driving the screws into?

Have you tried waxing the screws before driving them? Wax on the threads works wonders.

So right about the wax. I throw a pound of screws into a metal can with a dollop of paste wax. Hit with torch/melt/shake. Works great.

 

[mobiledynamics]

heh. Even when predrilling on large -finish grade screws- , um, I'll grab the toilet wax ring and that's my easy wax in box ready to go...

 

[Cruzan80]

I have some Apex bits in 1/4" square dr, that I use with a square/hex adapter. I think they are actually sold for aviation. Work great, but may be pricey. Haven't had one fail me yet.

Just tried to find them, and only finding the 5/16 which mate into a 3/8 holder.

 

[gahrajmahal]

I now use stainless with torx head for most fabricating. When you bump up from 2-1/2” long to 3” long they go from a #8 screw to a #10. Drywall screws don’t do that. If you are using 3” long screws I don’t think you are hanging drywall. I would switch to a deck screw or something with more strength.

The other replies about lubrication and tip to screw matching are right on. Good luck.

 

[tonyciambrone]

3" #8 screws for two layers of 5/8 drywall is what I use. And I use Wiha terminator #2 or Felo impact bits. Irwin is my favorite box store bit

 

[The Cobbler]

3" #8 screws for two layers of 5/8 drywall is what I use. .....

wow, so you have 1-3/4" penetration into the member?

 

[mobiledynamics]

What's the secret sauce when using SS. I use them ALOT for exterior stuff. For large SS screws, I abhorr them as they are just soft and strips out easily (even when predrilled and lubed) . Not a problem with #8 or even #10 sized. I'm talking larger than that with SS

 

[mobiledynamics]

K. PH is the correct screw to use for sheetrock I suppose, since it CAMS out so easily...

 

[Rlfd213]

Square drives all day long.

 

[PugetDude]

PH bits are a consumable item. They're going to cam out and wear the end off the bit.
The Warrior bits from HF last as long as the Milwaukee Shockwaves, IMO.
(flame on)
When a bit breaks just toss it out, shake out another from the Tic-Tac pack and keep on going. No remorse over a broken bit; they're only about 30 cents each in the 10-packs.
Apex are the best if you can find them, but they're fairly pricey.

 

[ishiboo]

I don’t use sheetrock screws for anything except sheetrock.

I drive a lot of screws and the Milwaukee and Bosch bits have been fine. But my “good” bits are Montana USA, Wiha, Felo, etc.

 

[mc4life27]

I have been liking the makita golds, the new gen two Milwaukees with the silver/ greyish tips on the shockwave and the the grk ones sold next to their screws but those are torx


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[Daedalus]

I'm having a good run with Makita's gold-anodized driver bits.

Same here. I researched this years ago after being dissatisfied with every random brand bit I bought, and then I bought a 15-pack of the Makita gold bits. I think I used up just 2 of them doing a full kitchen remodel, and after that job plus countless jobs around the house, I still have about 1/2 of the bits left.

 

[Kaizen]

3 inch drywall screws ? I would never use PH for that

USE better head screws. Square drive or torx heads...GRK's are my mainstay

Only time I'm using PH or slotted is for finished work like exposed screws on door hinges, etc...

I wouldn’t use an impact either. Maybe if it was 2x4 stuff but not on cabinets on drywalll.



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[sreeb]

I like the bosch ribbed tips:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0065IDBXO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

But as others have said, no phillips is as good as a torx.

 

[tonyciambrone]

wow, so you have 1-3/4" penetration into the member?

I just looked at what I use and I was wrong . I use 2 1/2" for two layers 5/8. I know a lot of people use 1 1/4" for 1/2". I use 1 5/8".

I offer no hard proof that this is better, only anecdotally. Just from my limited experience I don't think 3/4" penetration, or 5/8" penetration is enough. Especially when framing is not perfect.

 

[zippyslug31]

When I built my internal shop space, I bought a contractor box of philips 3" drywall screws (easily the less expensive option). Drove several thousands of them into the walls and ceiling so I have some experience.
My driver of choice was just to buy a pack of the Dewalt #2 bits. They last a while, and when they are too rounded off I just toss it and get another one. I think you can buy a box of 15 or so for 10-15 bucks at HD and Lowes. Easy and cheap solution.

EDIT: Should add that, yeah, they were all impact driven too. No real problems to speak of.

 

[rayra]

wow, so you have 1-3/4" penetration into the member?

headscratch indeed, if the OP is using that ridiculous length for hanging drywall, he's obviating all the safety practices about running wiring / plumbing in the midline of a 2x4 studwall. If he's not using nailer plates he's really chancing a problem with that much (over-)penetration.
into 2x6s it's probably not a problem, but still overkill.

 

[Blstr88]

Milwaukee Shockwaves here too. I use almost exclusively torx deck screws for all sorts of projects around our farm though, very rarely turn in a phillips screw these days.

 

[benjamintmiller]

Not just the safety factor... drywall screws over 1” into the framing are much more likely to pop.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

I wouldn’t use an impact either. Maybe if it was 2x4 stuff but not on cabinets on drywalll.



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Trigger control. I'd screw my own scull back together with an impact before I grabbed a screwdriver. I guess they open paint cans ok...

@OP the trick is to never buy a new phillips screw again and you'll be a happy man. I can drive a 3" torx construction screw 6" deep in two pine with two fingers on the gun if I want. What an upgrade from a few years ago with garbage phillips heads and drills.

 

[cherrybomb]

Makita Gold for the bits,drywall screws for drywall only,carefully choose the length. But there is so many better choices for construction than slot or phillips.You can also lube any screw for better all around performance.

 

[RegeSullivan]

I'm not brand loyal. Any Phillip's type screw is not the best selection except for assembly line/robotic work.

Torx for serious torque (no pun intended) and Robertson for most other stuff. If the head doesnt need to be flush hex heads are a great choice, they rarely strip.

Without regard to the type of bit purchase in bulk and toss when they show signs of wear.

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[mobiledynamics]

Is square drives readily available in your locations.

My 1st change from PH was squares from McFeelys. My primary stash is not torx just because ease of availability locally.

And I have posted this in other threads. Real *robbie* heads for squares is a night and day difference than just a square drive head bit

 

[johnnyradiant]

I think the reason that drywall screw guns are not drivers is because impacts and phillips don't work well. I don't think any type screw gun works well with phillips drywall screws period if the trigger is not easily feathered, especially if the lumber is no longer green, and the screw is long.

 

[4x4Petr]

Phillips are really only good for drywall. Robertson has 4 different size heads for just about any job requirement. I find that most things built here use Robbie screws, if it has Phillips it probably came from the States. Almost like American companies shun Robbie screws because they were invented by a Canadian!!. I use the new Milwaukee bits and find they work great especially Robbie ones, Phillips seem to wear fast no matter what brand.

 

[mobiledynamics]

Are you Milk. bits real *robby bits*. I had a stash of Apex #2 square bits. It was sch1t. Ended up ordering more *real robby bits*.

 

[rick carpenter]

I'm going to definitely not recommend the Senco DS200 for drywall. I bought a corded one a long time ago before cordless was so widely available. It comes with #2 square and #2 phillips bits for collated strips of screws. It's a great idea in theory, but your arm from the shoulder on down has to be exactly in-line with the screw or it doesn't engage. Because of the precision of the arm motion needed, I don't like it. I used my Bosch 18v Impactor rebuilding after Katrina with phillips bits to install drywall. Eight hours a day, five days straight, no problems. Now I use my M12 impact driver for drywall.

ItsJustDirt, if you're not using a collated screw gun, I'd suggest an M12 with any no-name #2 phillips or #2 square bits. No need to buy any really expensive bits because they wear out too. I prefer bits to be from 2" to 3" long max. That makes the tips more visible when looking around the body of the driver, but yet not too long. I pick mine up by the handful at Ace Hdwr. They don't have a brand stamped on them and I toss them when they wear out.

I have some Apex bits in 1/4" square dr, that I use with a square/hex adapter. I think they are actually sold for aviation. Work great, but may be pricey. Haven't had one fail me yet.

Just tried to find them, and only finding the 5/16 which mate into a 3/8 holder.

Where have you been finding your 5/16" bits, Cruzan? They're harder to find than 1/4". I've been working on a 5/16" bit system for my 3/8" impact wrench. I have a 3/8" drive 5/16" Wright impact bit socket to use with the Apex bits I've found, but regular chrome bit sockets and 1/4" hex bits work OK driving into wood.

 

[Cruzan80]

I searched for apex square drive Phillips. I also have several from a toolbox I bought, that has both 1/4 and 5/16. If you need a specific style, let me know.

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[nbpt100]

I was following this thread and started a small project this past week end and was influenced to go with Torx deck screws over Philips. The box was a couple of dollars more but the ease of use factor is 10x better. I had to use some phillips #2 and #3 in the dismantling and used Irwin bits. They were nice but sometimes on occasion fell out of it's magnetic bit holder. Overall a positive experience.