Screwdriver Durability Experiment- Anybody Up for It?

[eschoendorff]

I pulled out a bunch of #2 Phillips screwdrivers today and tested how much torque it took for each to cam out of the head of a new drywall screw. This is very subjective, but from best to worst:
- Lots of torque: Klein 5-1 screwdriver, DeWalt bit, Ace Pro screwdriver
- Moderate torque: Ace screwdriver (looks very worn)
- Low torque: Craftsman clear handle screwdriver

Everyone here says the Craftsmans ****, but I was surprised at just how bad it was. I think that having quantified tests would be useful for someone like me who hasn't tried all the fancy screwdrivers out there. I didn't believe that Craftsman was so bad until I tested it myself. I don't disbelieve it when someone says "Craftsman screwdrivers are bad," or "Snap-on is so much better," but having numbers would really help because it's a much more objective measure.

I got thinking about how to set up a testing rig. It's pretty crude and could use some improvements, but I thought I'd share anyway to see if maybe it'll inspire someone else to make something better.

In the first picture, you can see how to put a set amount of downward force on the screwdriver. I used a Craftsman drill guide to make sure the pressure on the screwdriver goes straight down. Instead of my hand pushing down on it, there should be a set weight. Also, the springs should be removed from it (I was too lazy to actually do that). The clamp on the screwdriver handle is used to prevent it from turning -- it hits the support post when you turn the screwdriver.

The second picture is actually from an earlier attempt at this, before I realized that the drill guide didn't go high enough to fit most screwdrivers. The screw is a machine screw with a washer on the top side and two nuts locked against each other on the bottom. (I should have used a longer screw, but this is all I could find.) The beam-style torque wrench goes on the lower nut and you turn it and measure when the screwdriver cams out.


A couple notes:

• Even when you're not pushing against the springs of the drill guide, the thing has a fair bit of friction, so it might be better to just dispense with the drill guide and stick a weight right on top of the screwdriver, using the hole in the upper piece of wood to keep it vertical.
• It's hard to get a lot of torque on the nut, so probably a bigger screw and nut should be used.
• You would need a more sensitive torque wrench than the one I have here.

You could use a similar rig to test durability, perhaps camming out the screwdriver a fixed number of times with a fixed weight, then test cam-out torque with a new screw.

It looks like you are on the right track....

 

[wch]

It looks like you are on the right track....

Thanks! I think that's about as far as I'll go -- I'll leave it to whoever gets all the screwdrivers to refine it and do the rest...

 

[Merkava_4]

Biggest bunch of wind bags ever.

Yeah they accused my Buick 3800 Series II V6 of being "course sounding." I couldn't disagree more.

 

[eschoendorff]

Yeah they accused my Buick 3800 Series II V6 of being "course sounding." I couldn't disagree more.

Yeah, those assholes have something against all American cars. I've been using 3800s since the late 1980s and they are still relevant. Good power, good torque and good fuel economy. Maybe not as smooth as a DOHC V6, but I really cannot complain.

 

[hamburglar]

Yeah, those assholes have something against all American cars. I've been using 3800s since the late 1980s and they are still relevant. Good power, good torque and good fuel economy. Maybe not as smooth as a DOHC V6, but I really cannot complain.

I can't think of a reason why a DOHC V6 would be smoother than a pushrod V6, if anything (and I'm not an engine expert, I just play one on TV) I'd think that there would be less space to play with when you're designing intake and exhaust ports...maybe the potential for more aggressive cam slopes buy you something. One thing nice about that Buick V6 if you're a car designer has got to be the small outer dimensions of the engine.

It's always suprised me that there's been a push for overhead cams in larger displacement engines (Toyota/Ford/Nissan V8's, Japanese V6's). It isn't like those engines are really spun up very much and GM seems to do fine with their V8s. Is there some smallish increment of smog or fuel mileage numbers that you get that's worth all the extra components?

 

[tatra]

coarse sounding=noisy, loud ,unacceptable, etc..................course sounding=race car like..........

 

[logical]

If this gets going and you want to include cam-out tests, I'd donate a Wiha anti-camout just to see how it fared. I have two sets somehow and would gladly give up one screwdriver.