Screwed up, need help

[lbperry]

Had the age-old paneling in my den removed and replaced with 1/2" sheet-rock. Now the electrical boxes sit almost 1/2" in back of the face of the sheet-rock.
What's the best way of fixing it? Seems like many years back I saw a box extender that would bring it up flush. Is something like this still available and would it be the best way of handling it?
Thanks in advance for the help,

 

[sparky 1971]

Something like this will work. There are several styles and brands available at the box stores.

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/electrical-boxes-covers/extenders-covers-mud-rings/gangable-box-extenders-2-pack/be1-2csm/p-1444424265885-c-6427.htm?tid=-7015426638767606715&ipos=4

You may wind up having to shim between the box and the extender. I just wrap a piece of #14 solid wire around a Phillips screwdriver a few turns, slide the coil off and cut it to length.

 

[The Cobbler]

yes, box extenders are available

 

[engineer2]

You can get "plaster rings" for any depth you need. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 1 etc. The only problem is they are the size of the electrical box, and they are made for installation before the drywall.

An alternative is to just to use box extenders for the outlets.

 

[unslow1]

I've had to cut those extenders to make the fit flush. They do make 1/2 inch ones.

ReceptXtenders 1/2 in. 1-Gang Electrical Receptacle Box Extension Ring 00004 - The Home Depot

Enjoy the ReceptXtenders 1-Gang 1/2 in. Electrical Receptacle Box Extension Ring 00004, UL listed polyvinyl chloride (PVC) construction is compatible with all box styles including PVC, fiberglass or steel

www.homedepot.com

 

[lbperry]

Thanks, guys. I knew you'd come thru for me. I'm off to Lowe's/HD.
I appreciate the info.

 

[nadogail]

The crews i worked with in the past called them "Mud Rings".

 

[sparky 1971]

A mud ring or plaster ring is not what is needed in this case. A box extender is a completely different thing.

 

[lbperry]

What brand box extender slips inside the box? That's what I think I want to use. My Lowe's & Home Depot don't have much of a selection; we don't have a Menards so i'm quickly down to ordering from Amazon or somebody.
Thanks for the help,

 

[PCustoms]

What brand box extender slips inside the box? That's what I think I want to use. My Lowe's & Home Depot don't have much of a selection; we don't have a Menards so i'm quickly down to ordering from Amazon or somebody.
Thanks for the help,

Arlington.

If your drywall is consistent the fixed ones are easier IMHO. Around here they are a pain in the *** to find in the store.

I've used both during my renovation.

 

[kbuhagiar]

This is what I used after we installed a tile backsplash in our kitchen. Cut to length, simple & effective.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3Y3P7D/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Sparky's trick with the 14ga. wire would work just as well.

 

[Zeke]

Can't use just spacers or wires wound around long screws. The opening to the box needs to be sealed 360º with no more than 1/8th inch left open to let's just say "air." Really, the box extender should come flush to the new surface, if not a 1/16th proud.

These are the only ones I see on Amazon and depending on the depth you need, or where the wires enter, the may need to be modified. Don't be shy about making them shorter with a hacksaw. As long as they completely slip in to close the gap. you're good.

BTW, many times there is a conflict with box extensions and devices such as GFCI's that have a broader mounting plate that prevents the cover from snugging up to the wall. There is such a thing as a deep wall plate that will accommodate this problem. There are also extensions that mount on the wall surface for more clearance both internally and externally. This extension won't cover the drywall gap.

 

[yatg]

I usually use these Carlon extenders.
HD tells you where they are, Aisle and Bay.
If you can't find them on the shelf, order online and pick up in store.
Let the guy with the orange apron hunt for you.

Carlon Multi-Gang Electrical PVC Electrical Box Extender (2-Pack) (B1MGEXT-2) B1MGEXT-2 - The Home Depot

Visit The Home Depot to buy Carlon Multi-Gang 3-1/4 in. L x 2-1/4 in. Non-Metallic Box Extender B1MGEXT-2

www.homedepot.com

 

[PoorUB]

Or these,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KDHZRNG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[sparky 1971]

Can't use just spacers or wires wound around long screws. The opening to the box needs to be sealed 360º with no more than 1/8th inch left open to let's just say "air." Really, the box extender should come flush to the new surface, if not a 1/16th proud.

These are the only ones I see on Amazon and depending on the depth you need, or where the wires enter, the may need to be modified. Don't be shy about making them shorter with a hacksaw. As long as they completely slip in to close the gap. you're good.

BTW, many times there is a conflict with box extensions and devices such as GFCI's that have a broader mounting plate that prevents the cover from snugging up to the wall. There is such a thing as a deep wall plate that will accommodate this problem. There are also extensions that mount on the wall surface for more clearance both internally and externally. This extension won't cover the drywall gap.

Close, but not quite. The box can't be set back more than 1/4" from the face of the sheetrock (non combustible) If it's a combustible surface, it has to be at least flush. 2020 NEC 314.20. There can't be more than a 1/8" gap between the outside edge of the box and the wall or ceiling surface. 2020 NEC 314.21. The concern here is that the boxes are set back too far in the wall. We don't know anything about the gap between the wall and the sheetrock.

The spacers and wire coil are meant to go between the box and the extender that was shown in the same post. Nobody suggested spacing the box without using an extender, but since it's a sheetrock wall, a spacer would meet the requirements of the code if the box were set back less than 1/4"

 

[lbperry]

Just a final post to put a bow on this thread. My son and I spent most of last Saturday getting the outlets and switches correctly mounted. He's a Civil Engineer and decent at wiring but a long way from an electrician; but, I'm proud to say a lot better than me. After we got through every thing looked pretty good but the lights on the 3-way switch setup weren't working right. He diagnosed the hell out of it and found that on the 3-way switches one of the travelers had 110V on it and the other had about 50V on it. At that point we decided we needed to get a real electrician involved. Got a crew out on Monday and they determined that a sheet-rock screw had been run through the feed to the circuit. They pulled a new wire to replace the screwed one and everything worked fine. Contractor paid the bill from the electricians and everybody's even. i would like to close by saying that my son who started learning his wiring helping me build a garage 20 years ago has far surpassed anything I know about it. And during that time has also become a damn good Civil Engineer. I'm very proud of him!