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Screwing Down the Subfloor

CitadelBlue

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So we are pulling the plug and decided to replace the 27 year old carpet in the bedroom. We ve got some squeaks so I m pulling up the old carpet and pad and screwing down the subfloor ..... They ve got all types of screws at the stores - drywall, construction, deck, primed and others
....So my GJ friends whats the suggested screw for this job .......
 
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Beemer533

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NUTTSGT

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Interesting question. There's a spot at the fire station next to my bunk that squeaks bad and drives me crazy. I've said I'll run a whole box of screws in the floor if the carpet ever comes up. My thoughts were to just use a box of deck screws which should be readily available.
 
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CitadelBlue

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I'm a big fan of GRK-Fasteners. I would use these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fast...-Purpose-Wood-Screw-330-Pack-101099/203533441

Length is somewhat dependent on how many layers of subfloor you have, but I wouldn't use anything less than 2"..

No need for the coated outdoor screws in this application, that's just a waste of money. Sheet rock screws aren't really a good choice either.

Humm .. didn't see these at HD .... Interesting that these are sold as 330 each vs 1 or 5 lbs.
 

derosa

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Really like the ace hardware brand deck screws. They're self tapping so they don't split things but the torx head doesn't easily cam out, I'm still using the bit from two boxes ago.
 

Bigbandguy

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Interesting question. There's a spot at the fire station next to my bunk that squeaks bad and drives me crazy. I've said I'll run a whole box of screws in the floor if the carpet ever comes up. My thoughts were to just use a box of deck screws which should be readily available.

There was a segment on "ask this old house " in the last year or so that featured a system for eliminating a squeak without taking up carpet. It used some kind of very thin screw that is applied thorough the carpet and once installed the head breaks off leaving no trace. I don't remember much else about it but it would appear that something like that would be ideal for the fire station and would not have to wait for carpet replacement. Firefighters should get to sleep!
 
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manwithtools

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You really need to pull the original nails first - all of them. I would get an Exhumer as they work great for this.

https://www.amazon.com/Dead-EX9-8-Inch-Exhumer-Puller/dp/B0000224VN

The nails that are in the sub floor are actually what is causing the squeak.It's the relative motion of the nails against the wood. If there is a squeak then that means the nail has lost it's bond with the wood. If it's not squeaking in a particular spot today and it is in other spots, it will eventually develop more squeaks - replace all the nails with screws.

Chose screws that are larger in diameter and 1/2" longer than the nails you pull and drive them in the same holes the nails came from. I prefer construction or deck screws with Torx drive heads. Get a good quality 1/4" cordless impact driver and go to town. If you have kids, they can jump in and help - their knees and backs are better suited to this work anyway.

I've done this to my entire 40 year old house, stairs included and I don't have any squeaks, I can't stand floor squeaks.:rocker:
 
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Beemer533

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Humm .. didn't see these at HD .... Interesting that these are sold as 330 each vs 1 or 5 lbs.

That's odd, I can't remember the last HD that didn't have a whole section of GRK-Fasteners..

These specific ones may be online only, then you just pick them up in the store..
 

ez-duzit

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Use a Fuller bit to drill for deck screws. Install one at a time. No need to remove old fastener. No need to plug if carpeted over. Just set the screw flush.

FC102HTC-base-2.jpg
 

manwithtools

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Use a Fuller bit to drill for deck screws. Install one at a time. No need to remove old fastener. No need to plug if carpeted over. Just set the screw flush.

Wrong bit for a construction or deck screw. It's only appropriate for old school wood screws which are not correct for flooring. That bit is made for a tapered screw shank, only traditional wood screws are of that design and they will eventually back out in a flooring application.

Bit is also fragile and worthless at chip extraction, will break unless extreme care is exercised in it's use. I've used them extensively in furniture construction but this is not the place for them. No need for a countersink in this instance as the screw will sink itself flush and that's what is desired. It needs to be tight - very tight. This is construction, not building cabinets. Use the appropriate fastener and all is good. If you insist on pre-drilling for deck or construction screws, then use a straight bit appropriately sized.

BTW, you do need to remove the old fasteners if you want to eliminate all squeaks. It only takes a few thousandths of movement relative to the old fastener to squeak. The wood surrounding them has dried out and shrank away from them leaving them loose in their holes. That is where the squeak originates. Many times those original nails are rusted due to exposure during construction or pet urine or spills over the years. The rust just exasperates the squeak problem. If you want to chance a squeak after you install your expensive carpet, hardwood, tile or laminate flooring - go ahead and leave the old nails - if you don't want a squeak to return, pull the nails and put the screws in their place.
 
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ez-duzit

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Wrong bit for a construction or deck screw....

That is the correct tool for the job. You just have to know how to use it. It is used to fasten boat planking and decking. And can be used with appropriately sized sheet metal as well as deck screws. No need to countersink if there is no risk of splitting the deck planking.

You're right about them not clearing chips well, especially the countersinks, which you must clear after each hole.

If you locate the screws correctly there is no need to draw the old nails, as the screws will pull the decking down tight, eliminating movement.
 

fury9

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I agree, the real problem is with the nails, usually they're poking out the side of the joist on the seams. I don't pull all the nails just the ones that are causing the squeaks. Then I re-nail with ring-shank nails or screws. I wouldn't use a countersink, It's a terrible idea IMO because the plywood is only 3/4 inch thick, sometimes only 5/8. By the time you countersink you've lost about a quarter inch of that thickness.
 

manwithtools

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That is the correct tool for the job. You just have to know how to use it. It is used to fasten boat planking and decking. And can be used with appropriately sized sheet metal as well as deck screws. No need to countersink if there is no risk of splitting the deck planking.

You're right about them not clearing chips well, especially the countersinks, which you must clear after each hole.

If you locate the screws correctly there is no need to draw the old nails, as the screws will pull the decking down tight, eliminating movement.

It is absolutely not the right tool for the job. It's fine for building a boat or a cabinet using traditional wood screws, it is not intended for a straight shank screw. Study the screw manufactures instructions. Sub-floor plywood is not boat decking and does not need countersinking.

The only people who endorse those bits for straight shank screws are the people who make the bits. That's because the market for them has gone in the crapper since the advent of straight shank screws, the bits are no longer needed. Countersinks still are needed in certain situations, this is not one that requires it.

If you use this bit and the largest diameter of the tapered portion of the bit is larger than the unthreaded shank of the screw (which it will be because of it's design) then you are just asking for another squeak.

If you want to leave the old nails then don't ***** when one eventually starts squeaking again - which it will do. I'm not good enough to foresee which nail actually might squeak some day and which one might not - and neither is anyone else.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Anything with a "bugle head", which is slightly large than a standard wood screw. You will also notice that most of the screws referenced have a moderate sized shank and thread and are a consistent diameter (traditional wood screws strat small and get larger toward the top).

Square or Torx head are best for power driving. And buy an impact ! Much better than a drill.
 
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