*** Screws !

[theoldwizard1]

I knew that would get your attention ! Actually, that is on of many names they go by barrel nut, barrel bolt, Chicago screw, post and screw, female screw, binding post or connector bolt.

I am trying to help my son-in-law repair the retractable awning on his travel trailer. The arms are bent severely. Each part of the arm is an aluminum C-channel, with the inner ones folding into the outer ones. The whole thing is assembled with long (~3") rivet with a tube spacer in between. The only way to disassemble this is to grind the head off the rivet and remove it. After we get the channels back straight I will bond (using 3M 5200) a piece of 0.080 5052 to the sides of the channel to reinforce where the kink is.

Unless someone can demonstrate how to place an long rivet back in, I think I need something like a *** screw/binding post, about 1/4" diameter and about 3" long. I can find a few sources online, but they have a very limited selection.

 

[The Cobbler]

3/8 bore diameter with a 1/4-20 thread is common for commercial / hollow metal doors .

just an FYI .

 

[theoldwizard1]

3/8 bore diameter with a 1/4-20 thread is common for commercial / hollow metal doors .

just an FYI .

Thanks, but probably too big ! Actually the 1/4" diameter barrel is bigger than what is there now.

 

[The Cobbler]

what about rivet nuts?

 

[PugetDude]

Sounds like someone forgot to put the awning in before the big windstorm hit...

Why not just use a machine screw with a self-locking nut (or drilled and cotter-pinned) At 3" long, it sounds like it is the outer channel?

FYI, a 3" S40 Pipe cap makes a perfect replacement for the cheap pot metal end caps...we used one to get my buddy's 20' wide 5th Wheel awning back in after a microburst, it's lasted longer than the original...

 

[theoldwizard1]

what about rivet nuts?

That would work, but I need it to be the full width of the largest C-channel, about 3". It need to be smooth outer barrel because this is a pivot point.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Sounds like someone forgot to put the awning in before the big windstorm hit...

EXACTLY ! Like second or third time out camping !

Why not just use a machine screw with a self-locking nut (or drilled and cotter-pinned) At 3" long, it sounds like it is the outer channel?

That is clearly the obvious answer but I have 2 concerns.

• Because this is a pivot point, I am concerned about the (cheap, flimsy, slightly thicker than aluminum foil) C-channel riding on a thread and "wallering out" a large hole.
• The heads need to be as flat as possible because this channel folds inside of another channel. Truss head screws are good, because the have a very low profile head, plus their oversized head spreads the load.

 

[The Cobbler]

would a shaft the correct lenght threaded on each end so you can install truss head screws work?

 

[PugetDude]

EXACTLY ! Like second or third time out camping !



That is clearly the obvious answer but I have 2 concerns.

• Because this is a pivot point, I am concerned about the (cheap, flimsy, slightly thicker than aluminum foil) C-channel riding on a thread and "wallering out" a large hole.
• The heads need to be as flat as possible because this channel folds inside of another channel. Truss head screws are good, because the have a very low profile head, plus their oversized head spreads the load.

The awning gets put out maybe a couple of dozen times a year? The sun will probably eat it before the screw wallows out the pivot hole. This isn't a rotating member.

 

[cvairwerks]

Wiz.....here you go: https://www.rivetsonline.com/aluminum-post-and-screws-chicago-screws-barrel-nuts-c-302_303.html#1
or: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JVR9XUK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[racingtadpole]

You're overthinking it..

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rounded-head-screws/=17wlvzi

If you are still worried about the head of the bolt chewing the fabric, put some 100mph tape over the head.

 

[6PTsocket]

what about rivet nuts?

That might work. If you actually crimp it, you are using it backward but that might not be a problem. I would still fill up the rest of the space with a spacer, and a dab of blue Loctite to keep the screw in the rivnut.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[theoldwizard1]

would a shaft the correct length threaded on each end so you can install truss head screws work?

YES !

I don't have a lathe, so the next closest idea is a stainless tube 1/4" OD X 0.049" wall X 0.152" ID that I can tap for a #10 truss head screw.

Got a lathe that can do small work ?

 

[The Cobbler]

PM sent

 

[Ditch]

I just used some!





on a bench

 

[PugetDude]

YES !

I don't have a lathe, so the next closest idea is a stainless tube 1/4" OD X 0.049" wall X 0.152" ID that I can tap for a #10 truss head screw.

Got a lathe that can do small work ?

Yes...

 

[9c1nova]

Check with a locksmith shop or door hardware distributor. Some door closers come with Joint connecting bolts (*** bolts ) (thru bolts ) for mounting door closers. They are usually smaller in diameter. You may have to put a washer under the head along with a longer bolt. Hope this helps.

Bruce

 

[joecon]

Buy a piece of steel rod cut it to length and thread the ends with a die
and put a nut on ether end. You could even use a T net on one side so
it would be flat. You would have to grind off the tabs or point that stick in.

 

[larry_g]

Well if the *** bolt doesn't work then get a stripper bolt (shoulder bolt). Another would be get a stand-off from an electronics place that is female tapped both ends.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[theoldwizard1]

Another would be get a stand-off from an electronics place that is female tapped both ends.

That would be perfect ! Except most of those are hex and then even less are steel, let alone stainless.

 

[chrism0107]

I have used them for cuff links in a pinch when I could not find mine

 

[PugetDude]

Oldwizard, made these up on the lathe this afternoon and have them ready to mail. check your PM. Fun little project.