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Seal Coating a driveway

Paco Pena

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Waste of time and money. Its like paint for the driveway. My boss decided to do the parking lot at work despite my advice. 6 months later its wearing off in the heavy traffic area. Looks even worse now. The **** was "airport" grade??? Ever seen an airport paint that stuff on? Not!

paco
 
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cwlo

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No one has mentioned that the coal tar sealant is a big carcinogen. It degrades and turns into dust. It gets on kids hands from playing outside, we track it in on our shoes, etc.. As someone mentioned, a nice way for the coal industry to get rid of waste.
 

wssix99

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Asphalt is an oil based product, so gas and diesel drips will dissolve it. Good driveway sealers are coal-tar emulsion and are impervious to oil and gas.

Kinda, but not really. Asphalt is usually cut by other chemicals like naptha. Gas and diesel aren't really powerful solvents. Even if they were - if a car is dripping gas or diesel, the owner has larger problems than a deteriorating driveway!
 

redfred18t

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my dad has done driveways for over 25 years and he recommends against doing a seal coating at just about every instance. Pretty much the only time it's worth doing is if you're selling a house and need to make your beat up driveway look new until it sells.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Waste of time and money. Its like paint for the driveway. My boss decided to do the parking lot at work despite my advice. 6 months later its wearing off in the heavy traffic area. Looks even worse now. The **** was "airport" grade??? Ever seen an airport paint that stuff on? Not!

paco


You are correct.
Most airports utilize concrete runways, taxi ways and terminal areas.
Our concrete repair product is in use at JFK, Newark, Philadelphia and Orlando.
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd0200-concrete-resurfacerpatch-3-gal-p-250.html

Take a peak.
 

6768rogues

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Kinda, but not really. Asphalt is usually cut by other chemicals like naptha. Gas and diesel aren't really powerful solvents. Even if they were - if a car is dripping gas or diesel, the owner has larger problems than a deteriorating driveway!
No argument with what you said, but there is a reason that pump islands at gas stations are concrete.
 

Chris Adams

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No argument with what you said, but there is a reason that pump islands at gas stations are concrete.



Gas won't 'eat' concrete, so the pads by the pumps are concrete.
Gas melts asphalt like crazy.


Concrete that has had hot antifreeze on it constantly. starts to crumble.

In the old days most cars 'spit' a little when they stopped. All hot cars will fountain antifreeze if you 'check the water' incorrectly, or if it is hot, and open it when it isn't running.

Most people spill gasoline when they self serve.


A small chain I worked for (running a few gas stations) back in the 70's spent a lot of time trying to find a surface covering that would resist both common fluids.
There wasn't any.
Then the state told us that it didn't matter, even if we did find something else, they wouldn't approve it.


I've always found it ironic that the two main paving methods are each sensitive to a treatment the other is resistant to.
 

patrick66

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I want to see that asphalt runway! Every runway I've ever seen that handles anything more than a small, private aircraft, has been concrete. A main runway at an airport with any traffic to speak of will be of reinforced concrete, specially mixed for runway construction, that is 36" - 40" thick, with 42" - 48" of packed gravel underneath that. Asphalt is far too soft to accommodate heavy aircraft, and would take an extreme thickness to build.

SMALL airports can have any of a combination of grass, dirt, gravel, asphalt, and/or concrete as a runway.
 

wssix99

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In a driveway... if a car is leaking gasoline on to the pavement... the car will likely either explode or catch fire. So, gasoline on driveways (in surburbia) should be a non-issue when talking about sealers. Commercial or farm facilities are different things.

The "airport grade" moniker is just a gimmick on sealers. Asphalt on runways is more common in colder climates (and could top a concrete base) but I can't imagine any pavement engineer specifying a sealer due to water runoff and traction issues.
 

Chris Adams

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In a driveway... if a car is leaking gasoline on to the pavement... the car will likely either explode or catch fire. So, gasoline on driveways (in surburbia) should be a non-issue when talking about sealers. Commercial or farm facilities are different things.

The "airport grade" moniker is just a gimmick on sealers. Asphalt on runways is more common in colder climates (and could top a concrete base) but I can't imagine any pavement engineer specifying a sealer due to water runoff and traction issues.

I don't think so.

I've had maybe a thousand fuel leaks that did not result in fire, or explosion.
When I did have a fuel leak that resulted in fire, it didn't explode (did take out a garage and a nice Bronco, but that's another story).

Most fuel leaks are pretty minor. Caused by someone pouring gas in a lawnmower or empty vehicle.
Had many cars in my driveway that were dripping small amounts of fuel, say after they had been filled, driven a short way, then parked.
Any mechanical fuel system may sometimes leak a little.

Most older cars will drool a little.

Besides gasoline there are many petroleum products that will eat asphalt that are commonly used around driveways. Not the least is bug and tar remover, for when you are cleaning the vehicle.

I've seen a bad gas cap seal pour a half gallon of gas on the ground plenty of times.
Walk through a large parking lot in Costco sometimes. Smell the gas on a hot day.
 

e-tek

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Have to say - thete's a lot of odd info in this thread and perhaps much is about older products that have since been improved upon. I did 2 drives 2 years ago - at the same time - and one of them got very beat up, due to a big ATF spill, floor dry stains and general weathering, whereby the other still looks new. I bought an Epoxy sealer with a 10 year warranty and painted it after a a scrub with asphalt cleaning soap$ it covered everything beautifully and is warrantied for 10 years against fading, peeling and checking - or they'll pay for "professional re-application".
I tthink these products have come a long way since the tax derivatives of old. I bet $49 on it!
 
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nate379

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If it was a "non issue" why would I want to seal because of that? Derrrrrrrr.

Of course older stuff leaks a bit here and there. Gas, diesel, ATF, gear oil, engine oil, power steering, antifreeze, etc.

Plus I get a drip once in a while from my diesel drums which is in my driveway. 4 55 gal drums right now but I have a 300 gal tank out back to replace those when they get empty.

Anyhow I asked the mods to remove this thread because looking over was making me loose brain cells. Quite interesting they won't pull a thread that is mine that I ask to be removed but they have no problem at all removing or closing other threads of mine.

In a driveway... if a car is leaking gasoline on to the pavement... the car will likely either explode or catch fire. So, gasoline on driveways (in surburbia) should be a non-issue when talking about sealers.
 

6768rogues

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In our part of the country, roads are seal coated The typical cycle is 5 to 7 years. Low speed village streets have cracks filled during year 1, then are coated in year 2. Then they are left alone for several years. The seal coating is heavier than residential coating and has tiny chips of stone (chip seal or slurry seal).
Country roads are coated with an oil/liquid material and stones.
High speed roads (interstates and main roads) are micro paved. It is a super thin coat of new asphalt because loose stones on high speed roads cause problems.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Sounds like a "tar and chip" on the country roads. Common for rural areas. Much easier to do and less costly than asphalt, especially when the plant is far from the job.

It's actually not a bad driveway material alternative. Although the chips can end-up in your garage and your house. :)
 
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burleymike

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I sealed my drive once in the fall, that winter the snow blower took it off. I need to do something since the sun has cooked the top layer of asphalt off and the aggregate is coming apart slowly but surely. The spot under the engine on my truck has dissolved pretty badly. Oil will soften the asphalt to the point you can pull it apart by hand.

The county chip seals all the roads and most of the businesses seal their parking lots around here. The hospital had a hot sealer put on two years ago. It still looks like they just put it down. I would like to know what that stuff is.
 
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nate379

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Better than gravel though. It's kind of funny, I live on a dirt road but my driveway is paved. :lol_hitti

Sounds like a "tar and chip" on the country roads. Common for rural areas. Much easier to do and less costly than asphalt, especially when the plant is far from the job.

It's actually not a bad driveway material alternative. Although the chips can end-up in your garage and your house. :)
 

The Money Pit

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Virginia
I read most of the first page of thread because I was approched with an offer to seal the driveway by a guy who pulled up in his truck and wanted to seal my driveway with "Gilsonite". I have read that that is NOT what you want to use. Also his price was WAY high for the size of my driveway. It's getting late in the season with temps dropping below freezing and my question was:

If my driveway, which is asphalt, has no cracks or showing any sign of wear other than it being lighter in color from when it was originally paved, should I leave it alone???

Thanks guys and sorry for resurecting such an old thread!
 

M40

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Sorry to resurrect a long dead forum, but I found the discussion informative in places... and full of misinformation in others. In any case, I have a perspective that hasn't been mentioned as yet.

The reason that towns and cities don't sealcoat is that they REPAVE every so often, and sealcoating makes that problematic. With a driveway, you're not seeing anywhere near the level of traffic that a road has, so the goal is to make it last as long as possible.

I live up North where we see deep ground freezing every year. This makes a HUGE difference in the way we maintain driveways. Down south, a sealcoat may well be relatively useless except as a cosmetic treatment. Up north, most of us sealcoat... and we do it every few years at least.

If we don't seal, water seeps into cracks and then causes frost heaving. A non-coated driveway lasts about a quarter as long as one that is maintained (cracks filled and surface sealed on a regular basis). Depending on drainage, grade and other factors, a well maintained driveway can last more than 20 years. In stark contrast, I've seen poorly maintained driveways disintegrate in 5 years or less. Another factor up north is that once a driveway starts to see frost heaving, it becomes non-planar and plows will tear it to hell adding to the problem.

Also, no matter what the 'pros' say, there is ZERO difference between 'professional' coating and store bought coatings except cost. In northern climates, they ALL get beat up over the course of a few years. therefore, the goal is to plan on redoing it as needed to maintain a waterproof surface.
 
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mslisaj

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Well a thread is never really dead when someone has more useful information to add like you did...................

I enjoyed your comment about "What the pro's say" about their product vs the five gallon bucket method. I worked with my local seal coater for a few days to see how it was done and he just drove to a big nondescript yard with a lot of trucks and construction equipment and this place had a 8,000 gallon tank in the back that had the seal coat in it. No name, no linage of where it came from or what it was. They pumped a quantity in to the seal coater's trailer, he paid the bill of about $350 and off we went. When we got back to town we put a good quantity of water in it to make it flow better and off we went to do our jobs. Nothing fancy about it other then the price we pay to have our driveways done by a "professional". I was amazed. The lessons I learned over those few days I have taken to doing my own driveway with a known good product from a big box store and I have gotten as good or better results.

Another selling point of the professional is their rubberized flow in crack sealer. Looks and sounds great but this stuff fails too. I have found that if I use Henry's roof cement and use that generously to fill the crack it last as long or longer before the crack opens up even larger.

Now I would like to address my observations of that too. While M40 speaks of frost heave and I have that here what I see more of is what looks like the asphalt actually shrinks. This is my unprofessional opinion but my cracks grow in width every year. The asphalt is not raising up at these "joints" but the crack gets wider. I keep filling it with the Henry's and I have notice that they kind of stop growing after awhile. But the A/C is pulling away from my shop building, any concrete aprons that it's up against, thus my opinion or observation of it shrinking.

Thank you M40 for resurrecting this thread as there are a lot of folks like me that are observing the changes in our driveways and I think it helps us all to know we're not alone in how the surface changes over time.

Lisa
 

greythorn3

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what you talking about nate! you dang near live in the city! you and your shared well! hahahhaaha culdesac!
 

MauryAnotti

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I had my driveways cracks filled and sealed 2 years ago when I had it on the market. A week after having it done I got an offer for my asking price. Not to say that the driveway did it, but it sure felt like my lucky charm at the moment! I still drive by that property, and it looks like everything's held up good. I done good!

information I used for doing it myself from this sealcoating company, as well.
 

mslisaj

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Klamath Falls, Oregon
Thanks MauryAnotti for bring up this thread again. I would say that the seal coat did improve the appearance of your home and help sell it. I'm still not in the camp of the seal coat actually preserving anything. Yes I have kept up on the seal coat but my driveway continues to crack and the existing cracks grow from obvious shrinkage. At this point I am rather disgusted with the investment I made in asphalt as it's no way a permanent surface like real concrete is. Where I live, and especially during this last winter we had some below zero freezing. I have had NO frost heave or the surface becoming "non-planar". But instead these fissures have grown and new cracks have formed. As I mentioned before this asphalt is actually shrinking and this is causing the cracks. I am now noticing parking lots and some city streets around town that have cracks that actually grow in width too. So with all that said this last year I started buying bagged asphalt that is a mixture of sand and minus pea gravel with some kind of oil or gluing cement from my local Home Depot. I have been pounding this into the cracks that are forming and repairing or at least filling these fissures in this way. The roofing sealers and hot rubber that is the "sealers" filler of choice is temporary and expensive compared to a bag of this "Asphalt Repair" stuff. So for now that is how I am repairing this. I must admit that my driveway looks great and would be considered in nice shape but this shrinkage is certainly an issue.

Now is contrast I have quite a bit of concrete poured around my property in the form of aprons and walkways. While there are a few typical "stress" cracks these have not widened or heaved either. So the concrete is far more resilient to the cold and freezing then the asphalt.

In hindsight I wish I would have gone with concrete. With all the grading work and compaction of the new base and then a 3" slab of asphalt costing me about $12K eight years ago I wish I would have paid twice that for concrete and had no maintenance headaches and fissures in the surface like I have now. Asphalt should truly be considered a cheap temporary surface.

Lisa :mad:
 

Karl Finewal

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Hi Forum People!

What To Consider When Getting A New Asphalt Driveway

It’s been several years since your old asphalt driveway was laid down and it is currently showing its age. Cracks everywhere, depressions, and missing chunks of it. You’re thinking that you might need to replace it already because of how damaged it is, but you don’t know where to get started.

These tips can help:
Removing the Old Asphalt
Putting a new layer of asphalt on top of your old and battered driveway is a terrible idea. Think of it as building a house on top of sand in an area where it rains 24/7. It isn’t going to end well as the foundation of your new asphalt is weak and will eventually ruin your new asphalt as well. The best thing to do is to either remove the old asphalt or have your contractor remove it for you. This way, your new asphalt driveway will have a clean slate and a better foundation to keep it from breaking down.

Size And Terrain Of Your Driveway
The larger the area that needs to be paved, the larger the cost it’s going to have. Take this into account when budgeting for your new driveway. Another thing to consider is the slope of your driveway as some driveways will either be flat or have slopes. Take the measurements of all these parts of your driveway and you can create a rough estimate of how much time, money and effort it’s going to take to pave your driveway

Driveway Debris
Debris on your driveway isn’t just limited to leaves and branches. You can consider things like trees, and shrubs as “debris” when it comes to doing a paving project as they can block the placement of your asphalt pavement. Either have them removed from the project area or, incorporate them into your paving plans to keep that memento tree from your great great grandfather’s youth part of your driveway.

Anticipate and Predict The Load Your Driveway will Handle
If you’re a homeowner, the most weight your driveway should handle is the weight of the largest public vehicle which is usually either a van or SUV. A thin layer of asphalt should be enough to support these vehicles without much trouble. On the other hand, if you’re a business owner expecting a large number of cargo trucks and delivery vehicles, you’re going to need to invest in a much thicker layer of asphalt to make sure that the asphalt doesn’t crack under all that weight and pressure.

A Professional Contracting Company
Doing an asphalt project yourself can be a satisfying project to undertake. However, it is also a tremendous challenge as you need to not only buy the materials for the project yourself, but you also need to do all the planning yourself. With a professional team helping you out, paving your driveway becomes much cheaper and also much easier since your payments to them will have them pick the right materials for the job and they will also bring their professional expertise to help you get the long lasting driveway of your dreams.
 

58Yeoman

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The last two times my driveway was sealed, was by the local asphalt company. He charged $50 less to do the job than what I paid at Menard's for the materials. This year, I had the 4500 square foot driveway "oiled and chipped." Less than 5 grand and no more sealing. Just watch out for the pebbles when you're edging with a power edger, wear a face shield.
 

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andyvh1959

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I'm leaning to the not-sealed side of the discussion. But then my driveway is a hybrid of sorts. House was built in 73 when the road out front was gravel. Eventually Green Bay expanded to the outskirts and poured a concrete road (as it is a county highway technically), and then the driveway was inches below the road. The home owners than had asphalt applied over the 4" concrete driveway underneath. I find areas where the asphalt has aged away, and yup, concrete underneath. When I had the south end of the driveway trimmed to suit the slab for my shop slab, the contractor with the concrete saw and skid loader proved it to find a full 4" concrete driveway under the asphalt.

I've been in the house since 2002 and I've never sealed the asphalt. Most of it is very solid, but some edge areas have split/cracked off. It is aged a dark grey like concrete color, and needs to be resurfaced. If I go ahead and have the asphalt scraped off and new asphalt applied (as I need a new apron up to the shop OH door) I may just let it age to the natural color and maintain the cracks as needed. When the front discharge mixer came down to the end of the driveway to pour the shop slab back in rainy/wet Oct 2019 it did no damage to the driveway at all, again confirming the concrete base under the asphalt is solid.

I may just have the asphalt scraped off, and then have the apron at the street, apron at the front of the shop and at the front of the attached garage redone with asphalt and let it age to the concrete color. Let the original concrete driveway show again. Won't know until I have the old asphalt scraped off.
 

Matt M PA

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Just looking for some opinions..
I own a small property maintenance company doing small residential grass cutting and was looking to expand a bit this summer doing some asphalt driveway seal coating. I am licenced and insured. My questions:
1. Since I wasn't looking to spend thousands of dollars on equipment, I was wondering what your opinions would be of doing residential driveways by hand squeegee method.

2.My local independent building supply place carries "Resistoseal Professional Grade Rubberized Asphalt Sealer" and was wondering if anyone has had experience with this brand.

3. The same company also sells resistoseal rubberized crack filler in a caulking tube and liquid crack filler in a bottle. Is this good enough for most smaller jobs?

4. Do most companies offer warranty with this service and if so, how long?

5. Whats best for cutting in the edges, a paintbrush or small roller?

6. Any other tips or tricks to help me get going would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I' m not the best person to answer, as I'm no pro on seal coating. That being said...

I haven't had much luck with the liquid crack filler from a bottle or caulk gun. Lasted a few weeks. The best I found for DIY crack fill is Speed Patch.

The best job we ever had was a hot crack fill, followed by squeegee applied sealer from a tank on a trailer. They first weed whacked all the edges clear and blew everything off. The guys had amazing control with the squeegees...
The hot crack fill requires equipment and not all sealcoat guys have it. I've asked each time.
 

ASAP co.

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For what it's worth people who go around scamming others with fake sealer ruins it for the people who work hard everyday sealing driveways. Me and my husband do this for a living and it's his passion and he is dam good at it to. ASAP asphalt,sealing and paving. It's just a bummer to see people talking so poorly about this occupation I understand if you have been scammed but there are good workers that go door to door that don't scam. We do it everyday and we go back yearly to all of our customers and we have never not once had a complaint we use a cold slurry. So just keep in mind that there are still great things is sealcoating and paving as long as your not getting scammed .. have a wonderful day guys stay safe and God bless.
 
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