Seal Pullers

[Jeeper]

What is your prefered method and tools for pulling seals?

Did an axle seal on a toyota 4runner and I used one of those t style ones. Worked but it did leave a mark due to the point.

Has anyone used one of these? My buddy has one and he likes it.

What other options do you like? What about different types of seals such as pinions, rear main seals, etc.

 

[bmwpower]

I'd like to know as well. Seems like nothing is easy.

 

[ImportTuner]

The T style one is what I own and use ...

 

[strizzy]

I have the regular style, or "T" style as Import called it; as it seems to be the most versatile.

Though I think it is ideal to have "Shaft Type Seal Puller" when doing something such as a drive shaft seal (I am assuming that is the seal on the output of a ******).

 

[justinmc]

What is your prefered method and tools for pulling seals?

Did an axle seal on a toyota 4runner and I used one of those t style ones. Worked but it did leave a mark due to the point.

What other options do you like? What about different types of seals such as pinions, rear main seals, etc.

I use the "T" style as well... I've never really seen one of the ones like strizzy posted but it looks pretty slick. I'd say it grips the "inside" of the seal vs. tugging along the outside/back edge and tearing up the metal. Actually come to think of it you should probably stick the "T" style in the middle of the seal/band and pull anyways. Just a thought? Dunno... Maybe I've been doing it the wrong way all along!

 

[Jbullfrog]

What is your prefered method and tools for pulling seals?

Did an axle seal on a toyota 4runner and I used one of those t style ones. Worked but it did leave a mark due to the point.

Has anyone used one of these? My buddy has one and he likes it.

QUOTE]

I have a standard "T" style puller and an indexable "T" style that you can adjust the handle and pin it in place at an angle to get at hard to reach seals. The lower style is more useable with the handle on the back so you can hit the flat L with a hammer and not get your fingers in the way.
Usually you replace the seal if you have it out, so you aren't worried about damaging it.

 

[-lecroix-]

T style user here too. Never been concerning with it leaving a mark on the seal ... after all, I am usually replacing the old seal with a new one anyway.

 

[Jeeper]

Actually what i meant was the point on the T pierced the seal and made a mark, just outside of the surface where the seals sits on. That's why i was wondering what people use because I don't like risking a gouge on the machined surface the seal sits on.

 

[russlaferrera]

I use the axle nut from the wheel. Take the nut loose then the bearing out put the nut back on and pull the wheel off. The nut catches the bearing and pulls the seal out with no damage.

 

[MAD]

I have the "T" style seal puller as well and it is true you must be careful not to scratch or nick the metal surface when using this type. This seems to happen when the seal is really stuck. When the seal does not pop out easy, heres what I do instead of risking damage to the metal. I carefully drill a small pilot hole in the seal with a drill and insert a short sheet metal screw. Then I pop the seal out using a cheap slide hammer dent puller. If the screw pops out I just go to the next larger size screw. This method has worked every time for me.

 

[drbill]

If you are talking about a rear axle seal a big pry bar works or my favorite tool for this was the axle shaft it's self.
You already have it in your hand

 

[strizzy]

I use the axle nut from the wheel. Take the nut loose then the bearing out put the nut back on and pull the wheel off. The nut catches the bearing and pulls the seal out with no damage.

Handy trick for hubs, but wouldnt work on a drive shaft seal...

 

[kartracer55]

T style puller. You can actually use a screwdriver or a large pick if you really wanted too.

Most of the time I replace seals anyway, so who cares what they look like?

Jim

 

[Jeeper]

Like I said, I don't care about destroying the seal either.

I bet a slide hammer and with one of those hooks would work well. Don't have one, but maybe I should get one.

 

[toolfreak]

I carefully drill a small pilot hole in the seal with a drill and insert a short sheet metal screw. Then I pop the seal out using a cheap slide hammer dent puller. If the screw pops out I just go to the next larger size screw. This method has worked every time for me.

That is the best way I have found to remove seals unless there is not room to get a drill or a small slide hammer in there.

 

[sha_ba_do_bang]

the t handle does pose a problem when you are careless and end up scratching the machined surface, i have seen them get scratched and then leak

I have one of both and they both work good for different things(as well as the slide hammer type), the t handle works good for stuff close to the surface, not set in, i bought the other style just to do a front inner axle seal on a toyota landcruiser, it is in the knuckle about 4-5 inches and nothing else will reach

Another little trick for getting out seals without scratching the housing, if the seal has a lip that hangs over the edge, just chisel the lip inwards until the seal collapses and then it will fall out with no risk to damaging the housing

Brendan

 

[Uncle Buck]

That is the best way I have found to remove seals unless there is not room to get a drill or a small slide hammer in there.

The only way I would ever use a drill on the removal of a seal would mean that desperate measures must be taken. I would not want the chance of missing the cleanup of a drill shaving and having it take out my new seal, or gauld the shaft of what I would be working on.

 

[strizzy]

I would not want the chance of missing the cleanup of a drill shaving and having it take out my new seal, or gauld the shaft of what I would be working on.

I thought the same thing when I read that... I would think that it would be somewhat time consuming to do something like that comparded to having the "right" kind of seal puller... *shrugs*

 

[Deafautotech]

i had craftsman seal puller (t) and i used it every time to replace seals while no problems. but i did use slide hammers (otc 5 lbs slide hammer) to pull bearings with seals while bearings need replacement so i dont want waste time to pull seal then slide hammer bearings out. i just get bearing hooked by slide hammer then hammer it out of axles. i had no problems.

 

[MAD]

I thought the same thing when I read that... I would think that it would be somewhat time consuming to do something like that comparded to having the "right" kind of seal puller... *shrugs*

hholmberg
Quote:

The only way I would ever use a drill on the removal of a seal would mean that desperate measures must be taken. I would not want the chance of missing the cleanup of a drill shaving and having it take out my new seal, or gauld the shaft of what I would be working on.

I have replaced dozens of rear main seals with this method. There is hardly any chip when you drill into a seal . I guess you could use a stop collar on the bit if you are nervous about the bit going through the other side, but I have never had a problem just being careful with a nice sharp bit. For a tough seal, this method has always been a lot faster for me than digging at it with my seal pullers. Drill-screw-pop- its out.

 

[Deafautotech]

i just used cottage pin tool to pull the rear main seal and it working fine. but the big problem that technician was misdiagonis the oil leaking. that rear main seal is not leaking as oil pressure sensor is leaking. (it is mercury sable). but i still had to replace rear main seal while it is on warranty and replaced the oil psi sensor...... i told to tech to diagonis more close to see the oil psi sensor before have to pull transmission to replace rear main seal.....

 

[Uncle Buck]

I have replaced dozens of rear main seals with this method. There is hardly any chip when you drill into a seal . I guess you could use a stop collar on the bit if you are nervous about the bit going through the other side, but I have never had a problem just being careful with a nice sharp bit. For a tough seal, this method has always been a lot faster for me than digging at it with my seal pullers. Drill-screw-pop- its out.

My concern would not be with drill bit depth control (although that could be a very valid concern in some instances I am sure), I would not want to take any chance of leaving a stray bit of swarf behind to destroy a new seal, or damage the shaft. I am sure that if a guy is very attentive to the removal of of the chips, this method would do just fine.... but leave behind just one chip, and it could be good by new seal!

 

[Deafautotech]

i dont do the screw on seal to use slide hammer to pull seal. i just dont want waste time (time is money).

 

[Canadian Charlie]

Now there is a tool I don't own yet, I need to get one of them T syle pullers

 

[toolfreak]

I have used a slide hammer with a screw attached to the end for almost four years now and never had a problem. I learned that from a mechanic that has been doing it for 30 years. I always clean where the seal rides with a rag and brake clean to make sure the housing hasn't been damaged in the past and to make sure no metal is left from drilling a pilot hole.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I have used a slide hammer with a screw attached to the end for almost four years now and never had a problem. I learned that from a mechanic that has been doing it for 30 years. I always clean where the seal rides with a rag and brake clean to make sure the housing hasn't been damaged in the past and to make sure no metal is left from drilling a pilot hole.

Sounds good to me!

 

[George G]

I've aways said I was going to get me a seal puller. Never have got one. I have worked in Hydraulics/pneumatics since 1974. If I could'nt just hook a screwdriver under the lip and pop it out, I would drill two small holes 90 degrees apart, screw a couple sheetmetal screws in, then pop it out. If chips were to fall in, they will land on the inside of the seal and come out with the seal. I have never found chips behind the seal.

 

[mulepackin]

Sheesh, you guys are afraid of drilling a hole in a seal. My dad used to cut froze up bearing races out of bores with an acet. torch. Not just heat em up to pop em out, but literally cut the race through in 2 places, then knock it out. It takes a set to do that. He never scarfed a bore to my knowledge, and I saw it done more than once. I don't have the cajones to do it though.

 

[toolfreak]

My dad used to cut froze up bearing races out of bores with an acet. torch. Not just heat em up to pop em out, but literally cut the race through in 2 places, then knock it out. QUOTE]


I have done that quite a bit on heavy equipment and I was very nervous the first time I cut one. It really isn't as bad as I thought it would be since the metal behind the race isn't preheated, it makes it harder to cut or gouge the bore. Another trick for getting races out is to weld a bead all the way around it and let it cool. It will usually knock out very easy.

 

[mulepackin]

Yeah, seen the old man do that to. Heavy and farm equipment are what its always been done on, don't think I'd rec. on a diff, or ****** though. When I could get past his cussing, I could usually learn something from him.

 

[SC-AW11]

Thread revival lol.

surprised no one mentioned the "Shaft-in-seal" pullers.
http://kincrome-uat.b2be.com/web/productVideo/58430.jpg
I am very scared of scoring the camshafts or crankshafts so I think one of these would be ideal. Anybody have any experience with any? Seems like Lisle is most available.

 

[bochnak]

I just added this one to my collection. It is used w/o removing shaft.

 

[bochnak]

Anybody have any experience with any? Seems like Lisle is most available.

Just used this to do my cam & crank seal on my honda and it worked perfect.

 

[DoubleA]

I've used the lisle shaft in seal puller for a couple years and it's worked great for me. For big seals I like the T style with the 3/8 drive in it so you can use any of your breaker bars or ratchets with it.

 

[SC-AW11]

I just added this one to my collection. It is used w/o removing shaft.

Sounds good. Short and sweet video. But that 90 degree action doesnt score the shaft?
This was in related videos check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=g_K0_KQj22E&feature=endscreen

Just used this to do my cam & crank seal on my honda and it worked perfect.

Cool, Thank you for positive feedback on it. Think I'm gonna get it cause The Sealey I just looked at is 200 lol.

I've used the lisle shaft in seal puller for a couple years and it's worked great for me. For big seals I like the T style with the 3/8 drive in it so you can use any of your breaker bars or ratchets with it.

Very nice. One of these T's? http://www.wtdsupply.com/images/Product/medium/LIS-56920.jpg
Why not one with it's own handle if you're gonna use that style head?

 

[SC-AW11]

Oo, Snap On has a version as well. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...675624&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

 

[Guns R Tools]

Looks like PBT tools supplies Snap On.
http://www.pbtusa.com/our.htm
http://www.pbtusa.com/engine.htm
http://www.mechanicstoolswarehouse.com/Crankshaft-Camshaft-Seal-Tool-Kit-P180959.aspx

 

[G1GRANDEUR]

Oo, Snap On has a version as well. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...675624&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

try with engine inside bay. everything is easy with engine out.

btw: those tool don't work on 4runner or axle seal, it's not a rubber seal.

 

[flylow7f39]

Thread revival lol.

surprised no one mentioned the "Shaft-in-seal" pullers.
http://kincrome-uat.b2be.com/web/productVideo/58430.jpg
I am very scared of scoring the camshafts or crankshafts so I think one of these would be ideal. Anybody have any experience with any? Seems like Lisle is most available.

Works great!

For added protection one can cut a piece of plastic out of a water or soda bottle and slide it in between the seal and the shaft before using tool.

 

[SC-AW11]

Looks like PBT tools supplies Snap On.
http://www.pbtusa.com/our.htm
http://www.pbtusa.com/engine.htm
http://www.mechanicstoolswarehouse.com/Crankshaft-Camshaft-Seal-Tool-Kit-P180959.aspx

Ah very nice. Good links, Thank you. If I can't use my student discount on them I will be using that site. Cut the middle man right out haha. Link saved, thanks again

try with engine inside bay. everything is easy with engine out.
btw: those tool don't work on 4runner or axle seal, it's not a rubber seal.

You usually have enough room up in the camshaft area I think. Crank will be more limited but you can drop engine a little if possible, like I did with my mr2 just to get more access to just crank pulley itself. So what tool would you use in the 4runner? Thank you

Works great!

For added protection one can cut a piece of plastic out of a water or soda bottle and slide it in between the seal and the shaft before using tool.

Ya, I think so too! Definitely worth $100.
Oh very nice tip, thank you very much. I will do that from now on! Stacey David aint got nothin on that lol