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Sealed concrete vs epoxy

slowTA

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I'm planning a 30 x 50 garage for later this year. It will be a working garage with welding, grinding, and cars coming in out of elements.

Like everyone else here I would like a zero maintenance good looking floor, but I'm not a fan of color chips in the floor anyway.

My builder quoted the floor as being sealed or having sealer mixed in, I don't have the quote in front of me now.

Is a sealed floor the easy way out of this? Would oil spills clean up easily?
 
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Shea

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Floor coatings are not going to stand up to welding and grinding unless you take some precautions (welding blanket, etc). They will get burn marks from welding slag and grinding near the surface. Sharp metal dragged across the surface will scratch it as well.

That said, Legacy Industrial has a new low-prep floor coating called Hellfire that comes in gray with metallic flecks. Its intent is for those that don't want to mess with flakes and clear coats and want a tough coating that is easier to apply than others. Rust Bullet from Garage Flooring LLC would fall in this arena as well. Both coatings also withstand higher temperatures than other types of coatings and may not burn as easily.

If you opt for a coating, don't treat the concrete with a "cure and seal" or it will have to be ground off before a coating can be applied.

If you want stay with bare cement and just seal it, a hard trowel or machine troweled finish is best. Seal the concrete with a densifier and then follow up with a good penetrating sealer. GhostShield 8510 (solvent based) is getting good marks from people here at the GJ. This type of treatment will not be stain proof (no concrete sealer is), but it does a great job of repelling oil and keeping staining to a minimum.
 

naturalgas

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Check out Polyseal EZ . It’s a cure and seal that was applied right after powertrowled on my 36x40 slab. Then a year later after blue board and skim coat was done I power washed let dry and rolled a couple more coats on it. I like it , looks decent and cleans up easy including oils. It does scratch though.but easy to touch up


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Garage Flooring

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I'm planning a 30 x 50 garage for later this year. It will be a working garage with welding, grinding, and cars coming in out of elements.

Like everyone else here I would like a zero maintenance good looking floor, but I'm not a fan of color chips in the floor anyway.

My builder quoted the floor as being sealed or having sealer mixed in, I don't have the quote in front of me now.

Is a sealed floor the easy way out of this? Would oil spills clean up easily?

First and foremost, find out EXACTLY what your builder is using. A sealer is the right way for you to go, but most of the time the stuff the builder puts in does nothing but make it more complicated to seal it properly. There are countless posts here from people trying to figure out how to remove the stuff builders use so they can go back with something better,

Is oil a concern, I bet it is. If so check to see if that product, according to the manufacturer will stain from it or if it will resist it. The best product I have seen for this is Ghostshield 8510. Hands down, no doubt in my mind. If I did not sell it I'd go out and pay full retail for it. Its that darn good. 8505 is the original formula and it is outstanding for those who do not want to deal with solvents. https://www.garageflooringllc.com/siloxa-tek-8505-concrete-sealer/


If your not worried about oil... Go with a good densifier sealer combo such as TL39 or LS9500
 
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slowTA

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Thanks for the info, all they say about the floor is:

6" Thick concrete: 4000 PSI w/ fiber, sealer, saw-cuts, and spreading customer-supplied stone

I'll post back when they tell me what sealer they use. For some (stupid?) reason I thought it was an additive to the concrete when they mix it.
 

biggziff

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Thanks for the info, all they say about the floor is:

6" Thick concrete: 4000 PSI w/ fiber, sealer, saw-cuts, and spreading customer-supplied stone

I'll post back when they tell me what sealer they use. For some (stupid?) reason I thought it was an additive to the concrete when they mix it.

They're going to probably use a sealer/curer product designed to seal water into the slab and slow the cure time. Just tell them you don't need anything and do it yourself based on what's suggested here. You'll be better off.
 

lakeroadster

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I used Eagle Natural Seal on the concrete slab in my barn.

It's available from Home Depot, $78.92 for a 5 gallon pail. Shipped to your door for free.

It doesn't change the look of the concrete, just seals it.

Water beads up nicely.

When I was installing my 2 post Rotary Lift about a quart of fluid (Auto Trans Fluid) leaked out onto the floor, I cleaned it up, you can't tell it ever happened. That proved it's a good sealer to me.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Do your homework. Better performance, typically, reflects a greater investment.
Weigh your budget against your needs and hopefully strike a balance.
 

Hollywood D

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I put ghostshield down on mine. Water beads up nicely. You can’t tell it’s on there, doesn’t change the look of the concrete.
 

lakeroadster

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I used Eagle Natural Seal on the concrete slab in my barn.

It's available from Home Depot, $78.92 for a 5 gallon pail. Shipped to your door for free.

It doesn't change the look of the concrete, just seals it.

Water beads up nicely.

When I was installing my 2 post Rotary Lift about a quart of fluid (Auto Trans Fluid) leaked out onto the floor, I cleaned it up, you can't tell it ever happened. That proved it's a good sealer to me.

Ghostshield would be a great choice at an economical price.

Ghostshield is $83.40 /gallon, covers 250 sq-ft.... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ghostsh...-Plus-Water-and-Salt-Repellent-8500/205212675

Eagle Natural Seal is $78.92 for a 5 gallon pail, covers 1,000 sq-ft

Since GhostShield costs 4 times more than Eagle natural Seal, yet you say it is an economical price, do you have any hard data that shows its performance is at least 4 times better?

I'm struggling as to why the members here that rep. concrete coverings charge so much for their products?
 
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Garage Flooring

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I'm struggling as to why the members here that rep. concrete coverings charge so much for their products?[/QUOTE said:
Hmmm. not sure how to take that. By the time you use your Garage Journal discount, apples to apples, brand to brand, our prices should be lower than anyone else's.

We typically sell at what is called MAP pricing. This is the minimum advertised price we are allowed to sell for. We also include the shipping. Thats why we can't discount the 'products' but we can apply discounts (on most) the the 'entire order'
 

PWC Repair

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I'm struggling as to why the members here that rep. concrete coverings charge so much for their products?

I can help a little on this. For starters, I research everything before doing or buying. I don't mind getting stuff cheap or spending extra IF I'm getting the best value for my dollar. Now, let me ask you, do you have a Home Depot with employees that know anything at all about what they're selling? Cause I've never seen one. And what about product technical support? You think if/when you have an issue with the floor there will be anybody to talk to about it? The answer is NO. I Personally went with a sealer from Legacy Industrial and am very pleased with the outcome. I also went this route because when I had questions the reps (from every brand) were here on the forum to answer right away. Even if it's somebody elses product. Just the fact they are ready and willing to help made me want to buy from a forum member. Not to mention I was not willing to take any chances on a product sold at big box stores. I have been in retail and wholesale for 23 years and can tell you for a fact, most products at those type places are NOT the same as other similar products. They are stripped down versions made specifically to sell by the container load to Joe Public to help line the pockets of the CEOs. Anybody that has worked behind the counter can vouch for this.
 

Armorpoxy

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PWC is correct about home centers selling materials made 'just' for them that are lower grade/quality.

One of our employees friends is a Bosch tool rep and he told us that the tools sold at a major home center are 'different' than tools sold at quality tool supply outlets and such. The home center tools have shorter cords, different bearings, smaller windings, etc and are most definitely lower quality than tools sold elsewhere. Same goes for coatings...lower % solids and things like that lead to a lesser quality product.
 

Shea

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I can help a little on this. For starters, I research everything before doing or buying. I don't mind getting stuff cheap or spending extra IF I'm getting the best value for my dollar. Now, let me ask you, do you have a Home Depot with employees that know anything at all about what they're selling? Cause I've never seen one. And what about product technical support? You think if/when you have an issue with the floor there will be anybody to talk to about it? The answer is NO. I Personally went with a sealer from Legacy Industrial and am very pleased with the outcome. I also went this route because when I had questions the reps (from every brand) were here on the forum to answer right away. Even if it's somebody elses product. Just the fact they are ready and willing to help made me want to buy from a forum member. Not to mention I was not willing to take any chances on a product sold at big box stores. I have been in retail and wholesale for 23 years and can tell you for a fact, most products at those type places are NOT the same as other similar products. They are stripped down versions made specifically to sell by the container load to Joe Public to help line the pockets of the CEOs. Anybody that has worked behind the counter can vouch for this.

We couldn't agree with you more. This is exactly why we wrote the following article about why home improvement centers can hurt more than help.

http://allgaragefloors.com/home-improvement-centers/

Ghostshield is $83.40 /gallon, covers 250 sq-ft.... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ghostsh...-Plus-Water-and-Salt-Repellent-8500/205212675

Eagle Natural Seal is $78.92 for a 5 gallon pail, covers 1,000 sq-ft

Since GhostShield costs 4 times more than Eagle natural Seal, yet you say it is an economical price, do you have any hard data that shows its performance is at least 4 times better?

I'm struggling as to why the members here that rep. concrete coverings charge so much for their products?

This is one of the reasons we started our website. Many, many, people are ill informed about concrete coatings and sealers. We don't sell product which allows us to be as impartial as we can when we discuss sealers, coatings, and etc. We think it's great that you are happy with your choice of product, but we want to address your question about the higher cost of sealers from vendors who specialize in these products.

Eagle Natural Seal is good economical sealer for those on a tight budget. It is manufactured and marketed at a low price point to attract the large retail outlets that sell product to the mass public. Is it a an equivalent product to those being discussed? No, it simply isn't.

The reason is that Eagle Natural Seal uses silicone (not siliconate) as it's first ingredient. It also includes a silane/siloxane mix. Silicone is a large molecule sealer that sits right at the surface of concrete. It beads water better than just about any sealing ingredient. This is why you see the initial great reviews and it makes for an excellent marketing tactic.

The problem with silicone, however, is that the large molecular structure that sits at the surface wears away rather quickly. That is why some of the savvy concrete contractors who use Eagle Natural seal tell their customers that it needs to be re-applied every year or two. This cost of reapplication for continued expected results and the time involved adds up over the long run.

The other issue with Eagle Natural seal is the the low active ingredients (percentage of solids) of their sealer. Most commercial quality sealers that are available ready to apply (not diluted with water) have active ingredient percentages of 8-12% depending on the type of ingredients. Some actually can be higher. Eagle Natural Seal has active ingredients of roughly 5%. We had confirmed this after talking to a couple of concrete sealing companies who are familiar with the product. Eagle does not offer this information, but apparently Home Depot was able to get this info from them and offer it here. Eagle does offers even less in their data sheets.

Admittedly, some of these companies are very vague about their active ingredients and GhostShield is one of them. However, GhostShield used to list their active ingredients in their MSDS sheets until they changed them recently. It used to be in the neighborhood of just under 10% if I remember correctly.

The point is, you get what you pay for. The commercial product offered by the vendors here, as well as other specialty concrete sealing companies, has almost double the active ingredients which is the main cost of the product. Eagle doesn't really care. They have a great campaign of providing their product to the home improvement centers who can offer it at a low price point and reap numerous 5 star initial reviews. Rarely do you find the 5 star long term reviews of their product. To be fair, it's hard to find long term reviews of most concrete sealing products for that matter since people don't come back a few years later to do reviews. However, what you will find are people who have done reviews for a commercial product and mention that they went that direction after the poor long term performance that they received from their inexpensive home improvement purchase.

Hopefully this will help to clear up some of the differences in price point and quality of products.
 

Armorpoxy

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Can't agree more. Just to clarify on water based sealers if your actives are 10%, then the rest is water....

Ghostshield's 8510 is 100% actives with Teflon additive, so that is the product we push now. Works great!
 
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lakeroadster

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Thanks for the responses.

On some level I find the negativity toward Home Depot sold items ironic... since they also sell Ghostshield.

So you fellas that represent these different sealers... why not do a comparative test showing the different products and how they stack up against each other?

Interesting that Natural Seal has active ingredients of roughly 5%.

Could each of you fella's respond here with what the active ingredient quantities are for your sealers?

Can't agree more. Just to clarify on water based sealers if your actives are 10%, then the rest is water....

Ghostshield's 8510 is 100% actives with Teflon additive, so that is the product we push now. Works great!

5% vs 100%... really? So Ghostshield has no water in it? Can you show us a data sheet that specifies that?
 
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02vito

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Sealers vs. epoxy coatings are debated here, and each has its advantages.

Regardless of which you choose, I would protect the floor from welding and grinding spatter.

I recommend that you do not have the builder provide any "sealer" on or in your new concrete. If you choose to seal it, do it yourself and follow all the manufacturer's instructions faithfully.

I don't see anything re rebar in your 4000 psi, 6" thick floor description. Neither do I see a plastic membrane seal below the concrete.

If you are going to install a lift, depending on the lift capacity I recommend thicker floor sections where the lift pads will bolt down. This recommendation may not be consistent with those of the lift manufacturer, but it is what I did for my 10k lift.
 

lakeroadster

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This recommendation may not be consistent with those of the lift manufacturer, but it is what I did for my 10k lift.

:confused: Always follow the recommendation of the lift manufacturer.

Ideally.... You want the bottom of the slab just as flat as the top. This ensures more uniform stresses, minimizes stress risers and thus minimizes cracking.

Getting the sub-base compaction uniform is also critical.

Sorry for the thread drift slowTA.
 
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slowTA

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The rebar and wire mesh were on separate lines of the quote (I have to pick one, not both). I also want to run PEX in the floor with insulation so I'll assume the plastic membrane will be part of that bill instead.

I have a 4 post lift so 6" of concrete everywhere should be good.
 

PWC Repair

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SlowTA, check out my build link. I did 30x48 insulated, rebar, radiant tubing, 6" thick. Sounds as though we think alike.
 

jack stand

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Sounds like your building a nice working shop. I did all my own slab prep including the pex and did use both (bar & 6x6 mesh), The mesh sheets are a minor cost in the "big picture" (esp with my labor) and provide; 1 a great thing to tie your pex to. and 2 keeps the pex up off the bottom with rebar "chaired" up and the mesh on top. FWIW I like a solvent based cure/seal. I got talked into a water based product because of my radiant. Overspray from using even WD-40 took that **** right off. It was a Harris product, prolly rebranded. I imagine it did it's "cure" job but deffinetly very little "seal. In the past I have used Euclid products but there seem to be a bunch of very plain speaking:thumbup: vendors here that are giving honest advice. Don't cheap out and please do a "build therad" Good luck!
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Sounds like your building a nice working shop. I did all my own slab prep including the pex and did use both (bar & 6x6 mesh), The mesh sheets are a minor cost in the "big picture" (esp with my labor) and provide; 1 a great thing to tie your pex to. and 2 keeps the pex up off the bottom with rebar "chaired" up and the mesh on top. FWIW I like a solvent based cure/seal. I got talked into a water based product because of my radiant. Overspray from using even WD-40 took that **** right off. It was a Harris product, prolly rebranded. I imagine it did it's "cure" job but deffinetly very little "seal. In the past I have used Euclid products but there seem to be a bunch of very plain speaking:thumbup: vendors here that are giving honest advice. Don't cheap out and please do a "build therad" Good luck!

:rocker:
 

RPH

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I did the Ghostshield 8505. Go with the concentrate, one gallon turns to five. Results have been exactly as the literature states. I have yet in over a year have anything stick to it. I’ve been rebuilding tractors in it. Pricey a bit but in the end a small amount to protect ten grand in concrete.
 
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slowTA

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Thanks for the feedback. I'll ask the builder what they use, but since I doubt they'll come back a month later to coat it so it either has to be mixed in or some other kind of coating.

So where does the PEX go in the floor? I assumed it would go right on the insulation for a few reasons. The first being that heat rises and that you would have almost 5" of concrete to drill through before you hit it (not that I have any plans to at this point). I read that people zip tie it to the rebar that is in the middle of the floor, I assumed this was to keep the PEX from floating to the top. I read somewhere (but only 1 place I think) that you should pressurize the PEX to keep it from collapsing under the weight of the concrete.

Another question about radiant floor heat, do you need to run a water supply to it? I thought it was a closed system, but so is my baseboard heat that has water plumbed into it. This could change my plans since running water to the garage would have a bigger impact on my taxes.
 

Garage Flooring

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Thanks for the responses.

On some level I find the negativity toward Home Depot sold items ironic... since they also sell Ghostshield.

So you fellas that represent these different sealers... why not do a comparative test showing the different products and how they stack up against each other?

Interesting that Natural Seal has active ingredients of roughly 5%.

Could each of you fella's respond here with what the active ingredient quantities are for your sealers?



5% vs 100%... really? So Ghostshield has no water in it? Can you show us a data sheet that specifies that?

Negativity towards Home Depot:

Personally I am not. If you are the type of person that does not need help or advice, and you know what you are buying often you can get a good deal.

Home Depot Price is $78.10. Our price is $79.95 (before the garage journal discount GJ7) and about $74.36 after the discount. We do not collect tax except in Colorado and we do not charge for shipping within the USA.

Where some of the frustration I hear others expressing comes into play is that they can and will have products made for them that are less expensive. For example, Black Friday 2016 they had a G-Floor Diamond mat at a ridiculous price. But it was MUCH MUCH thinner.

Also, sometimes you walk in and you find a retired gentleman or lady that has been in the trade for years and has forgotten more than I'll ever know. A lot of retired tradesman will go there to supplement income. Other times, your stuck with a 20 year old PolySci major who just wants to get home.

Comparative Testing:

I personally am not going to put out tests comparing my products to Legacy or another great vendor on the forum. Lots of good products for good purposes. The good ones will tell you straight up what it will resist and what it wont.

What I have done is testing with various percentage of solids of silane and siloxane. with and without densifiers. Those products are outstanding for most concrete sealing. The minute you start talking about long term oil and auto fluids exposure, nothing compares to 8505 or 8510 -- as far as a penetrating sealer.
 
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jack stand

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Thanks for the feedback. I'll ask the builder what they use, but since I doubt they'll come back a month later to coat it so it either has to be mixed in or some other kind of coating.

So where does the PEX go in the floor? I assumed it would go right on the insulation for a few reasons. The first being that heat rises and that you would have almost 5" of concrete to drill through before you hit it (not that I have any plans to at this point). I read that people zip tie it to the rebar that is in the middle of the floor, I assumed this was to keep the PEX from floating to the top. I read somewhere (but only 1 place I think) that you should pressurize the PEX to keep it from collapsing under the weight of the concrete.

Another question about radiant floor heat, do you need to run a water supply to it? I thought it was a closed system, but so is my baseboard heat that has water plumbed into it. This could change my plans since running water to the garage would have a bigger impact on my taxes.

I was instructed by my radiant design people that it really does not make a huge difference but he likes the it to be in the middle or favor the surface a little in terms of the pex placement in the slab.

Heat seeks cold, hot air & water rises. Favoring the slab surface vs the face of your insulation has to help some.

The pex will float, tie it well. The "crete" and it's placement will not hurt the pex, BUT chit does happen and you want to pressurize it to reveal any leaks (bubbles & watch the gauge) that may happen and have a coupling on hand just in case.

As for the water supply, I'm no expert (in any of this :lol:) but as far as I know, all hydronic heating systems need a water supply for "make up" water usually controlled by a pressure regulator and it happens automatically. I'm not sure of your exact situation and outlook on these type of things, but I'd put in the pex, finish your build and get the inspector done-gone-signed off. Then just add water later. You could put in a frost proof yard hydrant just outside the shop for car washing (presuming water & elec. will come from the house).

I think I answered all :beer:
 

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Shea

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Re: Best Concrete Sealers for 2017


Just to shed a little light about information from websites such as these... Their recommendations need to taken with a grain of salt. Here is why.

http://concretesealerreviews.com/
This site is put together by Ghostshield. Most (not all) of their "best sealer" recommendations is for their product. Heck, even the website looks similar to their national brand website.

https://concretesealersreviews.com/
This site is put together by Foundation Armor. Again, most of their best sealer product is for their Armor line of products.

https://www.concretesealerreview.com/
I haven't taken the time to figure out exactly who is benefiting from this site, but it seems to favor SuperSeal concrete sealing product.

When you run a website, the first question you ask when evaluating other websites is "why does this site exist"? None of these sites generate any type of income. They do not sell product and they do not advertise. So, is the website owner/s spending money on website design and hosting, let alone the time it takes to write an article, for the sheer love of providing public awareness about concrete sealers? ;) After doing a little bit of homework and making a couple of calls, it didn't take long to figure this out.

The point is, these websites exist to ultimately funnel sales to their products. It's actually a good marketing tactic. Just look at the web address for each site. They all have concrete sealer review with the plural "s" added in two of them to make the addresses unique. It's actually somewhat amusing.

Regardless, there is still some good information in these websites about how sealers work and what type of sealers should be used for various substrates and your sealing goals. However, their "best sealer" recommendations are far from being objective.

Just something to consider :bounce:
 

lakeroadster

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Re: Best Concrete Sealers for 2017

The point is, these websites exist to ultimately funnel sales to their products. It's actually a good marketing tactic. Just look at the web address for each site. They all have concrete sealer review with the plural "s" added in two of them to make the addresses unique. It's actually somewhat amusing...

Just something to consider :bounce:

So, I'll ask again..

.....
So you fellas that represent these different sealers... why not do a comparative test showing the different products and how they stack up against each other?
 

Shea

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I know you have been asking for this, Johh, but it's just not going to happen. As an example, we don't sell product and just provide information. We thought about doing something like this, but when you work out the logistics it's just too daunting and there are way to many variables. It would require multiple small concrete pads, simulated weather conditions, and the fact that substrate varies from one region to the other has an impact as well. It would also be extremely costly and outweigh any benefit for us. The best we can do is try out product when and where we get a chance and provide a review from our perspective. This is why it's so important to look at product formulas and lab testing which is generally provided in the Technical Data Sheets for most product. These are known variables that help to compare one product to another.

Distributors and vendors are not going to do this as well. The best you see is their product compared to what is labeled "Brand A" and "Brand B" or "national leading brand" and etc. Some epoxy manufactures will compare their data sheets to lesser quality brands in order to favor their product, but they don't compare their product to all brands.

Some distributors and vendors are actually selling the same product from a particular manufacturer, but it's labeled specifically for them and then they compete with one another for business. There are not nearly as many manufacturers of sealers and coatings as there are distributors and vendors... ;)

The key is to do your homework, read the data sheets, and talk to the vendors. Vendors that specialize in concrete sealers and coatings are extremely knowledgeable and can provide great information and customer service. You just can't find that at a brick and mortar store in most cases.
 

Shea

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SEO traps, sounds like “disingenuous news”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are content sites with the main key words being garage sealer review and best garage sealers. They hope to capture the traffic of those searching under those terms and then funnel that traffic with links to their sites or purchase points.
 

revamped

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I have the exact solution you are discussing and had the exact same concerns. Check out my stain and seal in my thread. I have already burned, scratched, scraped my floor up in several spots. I use the blanket for the most part... they are cheap at HF and worth protecting your floor. All I do to repair is clean and sand the spots to rough up the coating and reapply a little with a chip brush and it bonds together without really leaving any noticeable patch marks or shadows.

If you do epoxy... I think it will look like a **** ton of patchwork repairs in a few years.
 

74nova350ss

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Location
minnesota - central
I have the exact solution you are discussing and had the exact same concerns. Check out my stain and seal in my thread. I have already burned, scratched, scraped my floor up in several spots. I use the blanket for the most part... they are cheap at HF and worth protecting your floor. All I do to repair is clean and sand the spots to rough up the coating and reapply a little with a chip brush and it bonds together without really leaving any noticeable patch marks or shadows.

If you do epoxy... I think it will look like a **** ton of patchwork repairs in a few years.

My situation is similar to yours and probably inline with the OP so here goes.

I finished the build of my 30x50 this fall. The exterior is complete but the interior is not. Currently it’s empty waiting for warmer weather (to do the floor) and finish the inside. Pex tubes are in the slab for future radiant floor heat. And I plan to do automotive work and metal fab in the space. I will put down welding blankets when doing metal work.

Revamped, how do your repaired area look afterwords? Can u still see them or are they seamless? Any pics?

Will a MMA sealer work with radiant floor heat? What about auto fluids and salt from the roads?

I had been considering NohrS and SEC, but if MMA is easier to repair and similar in durability/longevity I might go that route instead.

Would NohrS and SEC (both clear over an acid stain) show obvious repairs?

All the different options are making my head spin a bit, but I know I need a coating that I can repair and it will still look good cause with my luck I know I am gonna damage any of the coatings eventually. My space will be used for work, but I still want it to look good.
 
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revamped

Well-known member
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
312
Location
Bremerton, WA
Nova, I don't have any pics... its seamless from my POV, but that could be because the colors I used too. Looking across the floor at an angle you can see the imperfection, but you can see that all over the place from the irregularity of the soft skid not blending well with the MMA. It is heavy in some areas and light in others. Looking directly at it, you cant tell.

I don't have pics of any repairs. Next time I repair I will take pics and add to my thread.

As for the comparison of Nohr@, SEC, and MMA... Contact Scotty at LI and get is POV. I know they are all outstanding products, but he sold me on the MMA because of the low cost to repair.

I will tell you MMA is easier to scratch and chip off the floor, so you will probably damage it easier, but repair it easier if that makes sense. I have been doing a lot of thin-set and other work, so I got that **** all over the place, and scrubbing it up and swabbing it was easy. Cant even tell I was doing tile work in there now.
 

revamped

Well-known member
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
312
Location
Bremerton, WA
The rebar and wire mesh were on separate lines of the quote (I have to pick one, not both). I also want to run PEX in the floor with insulation so I'll assume the plastic membrane will be part of that bill instead.

I have a 4 post lift so 6" of concrete everywhere should be good.

Concrete is cheap!!! Repairs are NOT!!! I had them pour two areas 4ft dia. 10" deep with double rebar layers tied together for my lift posts and it was about $200 more.

In hind-sight, I should have just had an entire 12x12 section poured 6" with rebar reinforcement and ensured the zip strips followed that area for control cracking. My slab is 5" everywhere else and we did the strips at 12ft, but due to the thickened tapered 10" piers I think I induced more stress and ended up with a uncontrolled crack across my bay. Luckily I was still able to set the lift greater than 8" from the crack, but its irregular so if I want to move the lift forward in the future... I cant because of where the crack propagated...

I know... this really isn't the post for this; but you are in the planning stage so trying to help you think of everything. Also consider looking up:
Anchor pots - best $32 I could invest in my concrete

Radiant placement vs. lift areas - they want to drill all the way through your slab in case an anchor goes bad so they can drive it through and replace it.

Sloping - I have one spot when I detail cars where the water takes off on its own path... not where I wanted it to run

Sealing - When they hard troweled I think they added a sealer, I had to use double strength muratic acid just to get a water based dye to stain my concrete. I should have made sure there was no sealer and I should have used acid based stains.

Footer - if you ever plan to put up a wall and mezzanine or 2nd story; put in the foundation footer now to support it for future requirements ~$300 in concrete.

Product Quality - I find myself at restaurants and businesses looking at their stained concrete floor and realizing which ones skimped on quality product. Taco Time in WA for instance used a really bad stain/seal and it looks like *** within 6 months. That is going to cost $$$ to refurbish every year. Also; what you start with will determine the future of your options. Some of these are not compatible with others so if its in the concrete... its your permanent process.

Mesh vs. rebar - What's the cost diff? My engineer recommended staying away from mesh; however, having mesh makes radiant install faster and might save more $$$.

Temper all of my comments with the fact that I used GJ as my bible during my build, I ended up over-designing everything, over budget on several areas, have options that I may never need (frame straightening), and get asked all the time "why did you do that?"

At the end of it all... I am still happy as can be and don't regret not one cent of my expenditures to build the garage of my dreams in one shot without doing it in stages. I may have had to delay 2 years in the process, but in the end I don't have to move stuff in and out and likely never actually finish it the way I originally wanted to.

:3gears:
 
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