Sealer for concrete floor

[brassspike]

I haven't found much on this and could use some help. I have a new floor so no oil stains etc...yet. I really don't want to go the epoxy route because this will be a working garage and I don't think epoxy will hold up. What I do need is to seal the concrete so that oil etc does not soak in. Can anyone give me some guidance on what I need to do?
Thanks, Bill

 

[AlphaGarage]

Just curious - what leads you to believe that an epoxy floor won't hold up? Their proven durability to hold up is exactly why they are spec'd by facility managers and industrial architects.

We're working on a project that will coat 70,000 ft2 of a very heavy use industrial facility, after spending more than a year researching all the various floor options and trying them in some of their smaller operations they settled on an epoxy system for their remaining plants.

And then there's Butler Manufacturing - they manufacture pre-fab steel buildings. Their plant has tons of metals flying back and forth, forklifts, welders, gantry's, material being dragged, dropped, and stacked - they have our epoxy floors - the same materials we use in DIY projects.

Not to mention the new BMW expansion factory, from their paint dip tanks to floors to handrails - lot's of WCC epoxy, in fact semi-truck loads of it.

There may be reasons why an epoxy floor is not for every project - but durability isn't one of them.

 

[DavidTK]

Agreed. It's hard to believe until you see and work on one up close and personal, but a GOOD epoxy floor is freaking incredible.

 

[brassspike]

I had a bad experience with concrete stain in the past. The stuff held tire marks and was impossible to overcoat. I ended up putting race deck down.
Anyway, I have a 28x38 floor. I do have some pocked places that the concrete guy tried to fix. They are slightly uneven and a different shade so perhaps a GOOD epoxy would be in order but I want this stuff to STICK and not discolor. If I go this route I want tiny flakes similar to granite.
Along with the damaged areas, it has metal keyway joints. As you know these tend to crack and break away the thin layer of concrete that covers them. I want to make that as un-noticeable as possible also. How are you guys doing the block walls up to the wood?
If you sell a product that will work, feel free to contact me with prices or information.
If you have dealt with any company that has done a very good or very bad job, I'd like to know that too. PM if you do not want to pssits here.
I ready to get this done as soon as the temperature is right.
If you want to see what the floor is like search 30x40 build.
Thanks,

 

[brassspike]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51650&highlight=30x40+build

 

[mmhouse]

What sort of stain did you use that you had bad luck with?

 

[AlphaGarage]

Stains and epoxies are worlds apart. A stain can look great, and properly sealed they can resist stains and make spills easier to clean up. But when it comes to impact and abrasion resistance they don't offer much, if any, protection.

Slapping a cross section of stained and sealed concrete on an electron microscope will reveal that the coating is probably a mil or two thick, that's thinner than a piece of copy paper. An epoxy floor will be far thicker (our typical system is 21 - 28 mils thick when cured). Less than 2 mil vs 20+ mils - both floor coatings, but both very different in performance.


BTW - Great looking garage so far - nice work and attention to detail!

 

[brassspike]

What sort of stain did you use that you had bad luck with?

Don't remember the name but it was a"silicone" stain and was reccomended by the paint store...that I no longer do business with.

 

[69GSCAL]

What about a sealer for someone who just thinks epoxy floors are ugly? Any recomendations on a good one that can resist most stains?

 

[gmhill33]

Just curious - what leads you to believe that an epoxy floor won't hold up? Their proven durability to hold up is exactly why they are spec'd by facility managers and industrial architects.

We're working on a project that will coat 70,000 ft2 of a very heavy use industrial facility, after spending more than a year researching all the various floor options and trying them in some of their smaller operations they settled on an epoxy system for their remaining plants.

And then there's Butler Manufacturing - they manufacture pre-fab steel buildings. Their plant has tons of metals flying back and forth, forklifts, welders, gantry's, material being dragged, dropped, and stacked - they have our epoxy floors - the same materials we use in DIY projects.

Not to mention the new BMW expansion factory, from their paint dip tanks to floors to handrails - lot's of WCC epoxy, in fact semi-truck loads of it.

There may be reasons why an epoxy floor is not for every project - but durability isn't one of them.

A little off topic. Can you roll floor jacks and desk chairs around on a epoxy floor.


Gary

 

[AlphaGarage]

A little off topic. Can you roll floor jacks and desk chairs around on a epoxy floor.


Gary

Yes. You can roll engine stands, forklifts, tool carts, fully loaded tool chests, and lots of other stuff.

 

[AlphaGarage]

What about a sealer for someone who just thinks epoxy floors are ugly? Any recomendations on a good one that can resist most stains?

I'll jump in and recommend AcryliSeal 3501 which we think is the best water based acrylic sealer available. Wolverine Coatings was the first company in the world to commercialize this new type of Acrylic technology. To date we are still not aware of any other company that offers this type of novel technology. It’s slightly more expensive than the standard water based products, but it has a HUGE performance increase. AcryliSeal 3501 will give better darkening than the standard water based acrylic sealers but not quite as much darkening as solvent based sealers. But unlike solvent based products AcryliSeal 3501 is environmentally “green,” with no volatile organic compounds. The chemical resistance is awesome, not the same level resistance level of our epoxy based systems, but far superior than either other water based or solvent based acrylic currently available. It’s even resistant to chemicals including organic solvents like MEK, Xylene, Toluene, etc. This product is less than 3 years old and we have not heard of a failure to date. So, the durability is much better than either of the typical solvent based or water based acrylics.

After waste is factored in your 900 ft2 can be coated with 2 coats if the first coat is cut 50/50 with warm water, which will increase the final gloss.

 

[69GSCAL]

I'll jump in and recommend AcryliSeal 3501 which we think is the best water based acrylic sealer available. Wolverine Coatings was the first company in the world to commercialize this new type of Acrylic technology. To date we are still not aware of any other company that offers this type of novel technology. It’s slightly more expensive than the standard water based products, but it has a HUGE performance increase. AcryliSeal 3501 will give better darkening than the standard water based acrylic sealers but not quite as much darkening as solvent based sealers. But unlike solvent based products AcryliSeal 3501 is environmentally “green,” with no volatile organic compounds. The chemical resistance is awesome, not the same level resistance level of our epoxy based systems, but far superior than either other water based or solvent based acrylic currently available. It’s even resistant to chemicals including organic solvents like MEK, Xylene, Toluene, etc. This product is less than 3 years old and we have not heard of a failure to date. So, the durability is much better than either of the typical solvent based or water based acrylics.

After waste is factored in your 900 ft2 can be coated with 2 coats if the first coat is cut 50/50 with warm water, which will increase the final gloss.

Wow! Thanks Alpha!
Your one post provided more information and insight than my hours of searching the web.

Much appreciated!

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

We have a sealer.
It is topical and easy to use but definitely will not give you the results that epoxy will.

http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/acrylic-urethane-sealer-5-gal-p-149.html

Good luck.

 

[ScaldedDog]

I'll jump in and recommend AcryliSeal 3501 which we think is the best water based acrylic sealer available. Wolverine Coatings was the first company in the world to commercialize this new type of Acrylic technology. To date we are still not aware of any other company that offers this type of novel technology. It’s slightly more expensive than the standard water based products, but it has a HUGE performance increase. AcryliSeal 3501 will give better darkening than the standard water based acrylic sealers but not quite as much darkening as solvent based sealers. But unlike solvent based products AcryliSeal 3501 is environmentally “green,” with no volatile organic compounds. The chemical resistance is awesome, not the same level resistance level of our epoxy based systems, but far superior than either other water based or solvent based acrylic currently available. It’s even resistant to chemicals including organic solvents like MEK, Xylene, Toluene, etc. This product is less than 3 years old and we have not heard of a failure to date. So, the durability is much better than either of the typical solvent based or water based acrylics.

After waste is factored in your 900 ft2 can be coated with 2 coats if the first coat is cut 50/50 with warm water, which will increase the final gloss.

I need something to put on my colored concrete driveway. Will this stuff stand up to 300 sunny days a year? Will it look "wet", and therefore dark, forever? (I'd rather have a sealer that doesn't give the wet look, but I need one that works well, first and foremost.)

Thanks,

Mark

 

[BL50]

I'll jump in and recommend AcryliSeal 3501 which we think is the best water based acrylic sealer available. Wolverine Coatings was the first company in the world to commercialize this new type of Acrylic technology. To date we are still not aware of any other company that offers this type of novel technology. It’s slightly more expensive than the standard water based products, but it has a HUGE performance increase. AcryliSeal 3501 will give better darkening than the standard water based acrylic sealers but not quite as much darkening as solvent based sealers. But unlike solvent based products AcryliSeal 3501 is environmentally “green,” with no volatile organic compounds. The chemical resistance is awesome, not the same level resistance level of our epoxy based systems, but far superior than either other water based or solvent based acrylic currently available. It’s even resistant to chemicals including organic solvents like MEK, Xylene, Toluene, etc. This product is less than 3 years old and we have not heard of a failure to date. So, the durability is much better than either of the typical solvent based or water based acrylics.

After waste is factored in your 900 ft2 can be coated with 2 coats if the first coat is cut 50/50 with warm water, which will increase the final gloss.

Got any pictures of this product in use? Thanks!

 

[12valve]

Alpha Garage. Your post is very encouraging to me. Next year I plan to build a workshop that will be 7000 to 9000 sq'. I will have forklifts and other heavy equipment in there. Maybe even a Track hoe. There most definetly be slag from the cutting torch and hot metal chips coming off my milling machine. Will the coatings hold up to this? What is a good guess on cost per Sq'. thanks

 

[Chestrockwell]

I'm wondering the same thing as 12valve.

Will epoxy stand up to track hoe and cutting slag?

I have never seen real proof that it will. Your average garage with a bit of welding on the odd weekend is one thing, but a welding shop or equipment shop where there is plasma cutting at floor lever, welding, and torch cutting slag every day I think burns the epoxy off. After a year or 2 of this it looks pretty rough in the main use areas of the shop.

So can somebody post pictures of an epoxy floor that has survived at least a year of heavy use including lots of welding and cutting?

CC

 

[Kingham]

Most epoxies will not hold up to heavy sharp edges and/or melted metal. though.... adding quartz aggregate via broadcast or slurry will make a very tough floor but hot metal can make it look ugly quick. there are some products out there.. but you are going to pay a lot of money per gallon and application is not typically a DYI project.

for really heavy industrial use.. we recommend using a concrete desifier/chemical hardener. Plenty suppliers out there.

Fred.. I'd like to try some of your product to see how it performs..

 

[Kingham]

Most epoxies will not hold up to heavy sharp edges and/or melted metal. though.... adding quartz aggregate via broadcast or slurry will make a very tough floor but hot metal can make it look ugly quick. there are some products out there.. but you are going to pay a lot of money per gallon and application is not typically a DYI project.

for really heavy industrial use.. we recommend using a concrete desifier/chemical hardener. Plenty suppliers out there.

Fred.. I'd like to try some of your product to see how it performs..

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Our sealer will give you a glossy wet look.
We have another sealer that is not topical and will soak in.

http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/concrete-sealer-5-gal-p-140.html

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

We have (2) sealers, the aforementioned product is topical and wet looking.
See link below for the 2nd, it is not topical and therefore will soak in, not wet looking.

http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/concrete-sealer-5-gal-p-140.html

 

[12valve]

thanks for the reply kingham. That is what I figured. I'd love to do the epoxy, but the cost will always make me worry about damaging it. I think I will just go with a good quality sealer. Thanks for the info guys

 

[BoydS]

I went with a product from Convergent Concrete Technologys and am very happy with the results. The details are in the linked thread.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32025

 

[Dragster Racer]

Epoxies aren't for me. I worked in a large facility that made kitchen cabinets, and all the floors were epoxied. Very few fork lifts. Beautiful. But slide a bench or a pallet with a nail head out a bit.....ugly. Cleaned up from sawdust nice though.
Now, if I were to take my tractor in there in the winter to thaw....and with the chains on??? Don't even think it. Carnage. Don't have a helper and need to slide something a distance in the shop? Don't do it with epoxy. I can't live with that kind of pressure. I love the way they look and clean up. But mess them up, and they look bad. Mess up a clear finished floor? Not the end of the world. I used a run of the mill cure and seal in gloss early on. I'm happy with it, but it could be better. Probably hard to remove though to do another product.