Anyone have a good way to remove the top portion of expansion joint material to allow for sealing? Pole barn slab with e-joint around the perimeter grade board and columns and with the top of concrete equal to top of e-joint material (fiberboard).
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Sealing expansion joint remove and seal
- Thread starter Awac457
- Start date
Assuming that it is already poured. If not, you can use a plastic cap on the joint board that peels up after the pour to allow for 3/8 to 1/2 inch of self levelling caulk. You're probably now down to using a sharp wood chisel to rake it out. Absolutely not a fun project, but break it up into small segments & caulk as you finish each area.
Thank you. Yeah, fortunately it's not poured yet but I have the fiberboard and I was thinking about the sealing part. I'll have to look into the caps. I can remember years ago I had the same dilemma but was able to find a fiberboard material with a 1/2" wood strip on top that you could peel up later. Wasn't able to find any of that. Had thought about ripping some 1/2" plywood strips and pin/brad nail those to the grade board at grade and **** the fiberboard up to it. I'd probably mark the nail locations and come back later with a multi-tool to slice them in two.
ConCretin
Well-known member
I realize you already have the fiberboard but something like this is fairly inexpensive and will accomplish your goal very simply
1/2"X6"X50' Fastflex Foam Expansion Joint W/Tear Strip Nomaco - White Cap
Fastflex is a closed-cell polyethylene foam joint filler that is supplied with a convenient tear-off strip. When the tear–off strip is removed, it creates a void for the sealant in order to prevent surface cracking. Fastflex is available in continuous lengths in wall thicknesses of 3/8” and ½”...
www.whitecap.com
jrsavoie
Well-known member
Which caulk should be used?Assuming that it is already poured. If not, you can use a plastic cap on the joint board that peels up after the pour to allow for 3/8 to 1/2 inch of self levelling caulk. You're probably now down to using a sharp wood chisel to rake it out. Absolutely not a fun project, but break it up into small segments & caulk as you finish each area.
That's a good idea too {along with the plastic caps}. I'll have to look into that.I realize you already have the fiberboard but something like this is fairly inexpensive and will accomplish your goal very simply
1/2"X6"X50' Fastflex Foam Expansion Joint W/Tear Strip Nomaco - White Cap
Fastflex is a closed-cell polyethylene foam joint filler that is supplied with a convenient tear-off strip. When the tear–off strip is removed, it creates a void for the sealant in order to prevent surface cracking. Fastflex is available in continuous lengths in wall thicknesses of 3/8” and ½”...www.whitecap.com
I've used Sonneborne SL-1 on many projects over the years. Recently used Sika silaflex. Also, a good product.
Both brands are available in gray or limestone. I believe Vulkem also has an equavalent product.
Just be sure to tape the ends of the area you are filling with duct tape or caulk the end of the joint with regular caulking or your self levelling material will seek a level not in your joint. At $ 17 to $ 18 a tube, you don't want too much to run out on the ground.
If you aren't real steady with a caulking gun, use blue tape on both sides of a few lines until you get the hang of it. Also, barely snip the end of the tube. Once it is flowing, it is easier to control that way.
I'm glad you got the peel off joint-- you've saved many hours of unpleasant work. Good luck. Caulked joints in a slab make the project look professional & also make it easier to maintain.
Both brands are available in gray or limestone. I believe Vulkem also has an equavalent product.
Just be sure to tape the ends of the area you are filling with duct tape or caulk the end of the joint with regular caulking or your self levelling material will seek a level not in your joint. At $ 17 to $ 18 a tube, you don't want too much to run out on the ground.
If you aren't real steady with a caulking gun, use blue tape on both sides of a few lines until you get the hang of it. Also, barely snip the end of the tube. Once it is flowing, it is easier to control that way.
I'm glad you got the peel off joint-- you've saved many hours of unpleasant work. Good luck. Caulked joints in a slab make the project look professional & also make it easier to maintain.
Sorry for being late to reply but thank you for the info. I will look into these products. Question...would I be correct to expect these to be stiffer in colder weather or are they formulated to flow well even in colder weather, say, in the 30's? I haven’t done any yet but it's getting colder. It's probably in their product install info I suppose.