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Sealing sheathing to sill plates?

MINIz guy

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What is the correct way to seal this up, or is it code to not do it because I’d close up any way for water to exit?

This is from the inside of my garage looking at my sheathing. There are small air gaps between it and the bottom sill I want to seal with foam. I don’t want bugs to come into the wall or any air leaks once I throw in insulation and drywall.

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LXCam

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I'd caulk it. But if you decide to use spray foam use the low expansive kind. If you don't and there's enough gap to allow enough foam and the siding isn't nailed well it'll pop or bulge the siding without hesitation.
 

ForceFed70

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Are you going to install a vapor barrier when you insulate? If so, sealing it would mostly be to keep bugs out.
 

manwithtools

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What is the plumbers strap running around the sill plate for?
I'd put some nails in the sheeting/siding 1st,then see what it looks like.

That's not plumbers strap, that's a sill anchor strap. And I agree, a little more nailing of the sheathing close to the gap area to start. If that does not cure the problem, then caulk would be my preference.
 
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MINIz guy

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I will be using faced batts so that will be my moisture barrier.

Contractor put some type of caulk on part of the sill but stopped at the stem wall. I’m guessing I can just finish up and caulk the rest of the sill?

10-4 on adding more nails before trying to caulk the gap.

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MINIz guy

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There’s a step at the end of my garage for better reference.

I had a 10x10 corner of the garage fixed due to termite damage. The older sill plates don’t look like they have any caulking on them.
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cos

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Hello Can not see what is causing the gap. I suspect slab edge is not line straight. Around my neck of the woods concrete mechanics extend sill a little over foundation or slab to get line straight walls if needed.
 
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manwithtools

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What's sill anchor strap? Around here we use anchor bolts.:dunno:

See below, becoming more popular for anchoring sill plate, because you don't have to precisely align holes in the sill plate to the anchor bolt locations. Labor savings....

MAB15Z_in.jpeg
 

Kaizen

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What's sill anchor strap? Around here we use anchor bolts.:dunno:



Newer way of doing it. Looks like a big Bobbie pin. V part is inserted in the wet concrete. After it dries you fold it out and put your sill on it then wrap around sill and nail.

Op I’d try screw first then caulk. Screws will move that ply to seal any issues


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Lelandwelds

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What is the correct way to seal this up, or is it code to not do it because I’d close up any way for water to exit?

I don’t want . . . any air leaks once I throw in insulation and drywall.

Hoping water to exit but not enter is like drilling a second hole in a leaky boat.

Garages (and houses) leak so much it isn't funny. Read the "passive house" or "pretty good house" forums for sources and fixes. I thought I built a damn tight house until I found I didnt. It is still the most comfortable place I have ever slept in. ( lesson learned: take advice with a grain of salt, especially Internet advice.)
 
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MINIz guy

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I ended up caulking it quickly since it was pouring all day - no way I could take siding off to drive a few more screws in the sheathing. That will be for another warmer day. Threw in some outlets and will be adding insulation soon. I need this garage functional so I can work on my projects again.
 

larry4406

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I ended up caulking it quickly since it was pouring all day - no way I could take siding off to drive a few more screws in the sheathing. That will be for another warmer day. Threw in some outlets and will be adding insulation soon. I need this garage functional so I can work on my projects again.

On new home construction our insulation contractor uses routine painters type caulk on air gaps like that. They caulk the double top plates together, any ganged studs, sill plates to subfloor, etc. This in addition to firestopping of all vertical drilled plates, etc.
 

Stroked05

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I will be using faced batts so that will be my moisture barrier.

Contractor put some type of caulk on part of the sill but stopped at the stem wall. I’m guessing I can just finish up and caulk the rest of the sill?

10-4 on adding more nails before trying to caulk the gap.

6cebb403012f00f4af7b5737017c90bd.jpg


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I know you just had it redone, but is there any sill seal foam underneath of your bottom plate? That also helps with some air intrusion, but also helps with moisture, rot, insects getting into your framing... usually you can see a hint of it squished out the side, or hanging out a bit...
 

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yeldogt

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If it's not being foam insulated ...........I aways use spray foam along the whole sill and up along the stud where the sheathing joint is located -- any gap in sheathing get foamed

Caulk will fail ... I never use it.

What's the sheathing made out of ?
 
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MINIz guy

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Yep, there was some foam under the sill after checking again. It didn't stick past the sill, but I saw it between the larger gaps. I used DAP Dynaflex 230 caulk. Had a three tubes from a leftover project so I used 2 to finish sealing the sill and gap between the sheathing.

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