Sealing the *FRAME* gap on the garage door?

[MaDMaXX]

I've searched for ages, but could only find people with gaps between the door and the frame.

I have a problem where i can see light through the gap between the frame and the wall.

I'm assuming some kind of caulking should be used here? the poly barrier sticks out from the gap about an inch, i'm also assuming that the caulk should go between the poly barrier and the door-side of the frame, not the wall and the poly barrier?


Anyone come across this before? any advice?

Thanks.

 

[Marctrees]

The jamb should have properly positioned and nailed on "Door stop" like trim, w an attached rubber vane.

Properly installed, it should seal VERY well to the face of the door sections...

Sides, and top edge.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Caulk is not the solution...

This has NOTHING to do w anykinda Caulk.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

If you like, photo your "Gap" problem and post here.

Marc

 

[Bendibal]

Years ago I lived in a block home. The garage door had 2x? treated lumber adjacent to the block, then 1x material as trim. You could see light, and feel wind between the block and 2x. In that case, I used low expanding spray foam to fill the void, then caulk for looks, and weather resistance at all joints.

 

[Marctrees]

Well, Ya, but I assume OP means between the door and the inside door mating side of jamb.

If he means outside of the jamb, well Ya, obviously a caulk issue.

Marc

 

[MaDMaXX]

Gap is frame to wall, not frame to door.

 

[Marctrees]

Mad - OK, that helps..

But how bout please a few photos from Outside ?

Marc

 

[MaDMaXX]

The outside? That, does mean, going outside?....

 

[MaDMaXX]

Between the brick and the wooden frame.

 

[Marctrees]

Can't see any gaps there, but certaintly there may be.

So, Ya, caulk...

I would use Generic RTV Silicone..

But I guess your question is..

ON WHAT side of the Poly ?

I would caulk the exterior..

And leave interior alone.

Jamb to brick.

Done.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

You always want to seal against water, vapor pressure, etc as outside as you can.

So caulk outside, and not to worry about inside.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Should have been caulked when built.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Others may recommend like other formulations of Caulk, I just have always had great success w 100% Silicone.

Only not if it's a VERY moving active opening joint...

And what you have is NOT that.

Marc

 

[MaDMaXX]

Yeah, it should have been done 20 years ago....

Anyway, fixing it now

I guess clear silicone would be best, it's a pretty narrow gap on the outside, as you can see, but it lets a lot of light and obviously draught through.

 

[Marctrees]

Yup.

GE Window and Door sealant from Bigbox...

Or..

Honestly...

The Generic, even Mainstay's brand from Walmart is the SAME stuff.

I Guaranteee...

As long as it is 100% Silicone.

Have studied this.

Marc

 

[MaDMaXX]

Thanks.

 

[Firebrick43]

Two points. First use a backer rod. It not only saves caulk and therefore money but makes any caulk perform and stretch better as it keep the thickness of the caulk less than the width of the bead.

Second, while silicones have their place and the caulk itself is highly durable, it sticks really lousy to wood. Also many is not paintable and the stuff that says it is will have the paint fall off in several years typically. Also I see a wood jamb against brick, it could have some seasonal movement.

I would highly suggest a synthetic rubber caulk such as quad or solar seal 900. Both excellent adheasion(actually it really ***** if you get it where it shouldn't be) stretches excellent and not only paintable but available in many colors. It should never be used inside however as it stinks and always will.

Silcone is superb an glass and tile.

 

[MaDMaXX]

Hmm, good info, but, that other stuff will always stink? I can't have the garage, and therefore the house, stink permanently, is there another option?

 

[Firebrick43]

It will not stink up your garage or house if you use it on the outside brick to jamb joint. If you want to caulk the inside as well then use another product.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

My experience using DAP silicone on the house gaps has been good. My house is brick with some wood trim, used it on the last two houses in fact. I think they also advertise being paintable. I buy the clear, but have used white before. Comes in brown too.

 

[DieselNut88]

If you can get solar seal i second it is a great product. Also OSI is a great product. DAP is complete garbage. GE silcone is also good.

 

[MaDMaXX]

It will not stink up your garage or house if you use it on the outside brick to jamb joint. If you want to caulk the inside as well then use another product.

So these gaps go all the way through, if the product stinks even when cured, it's going to get inside the garage and then in the house.

 

[MaDMaXX]

My experience using DAP silicone on the house gaps has been good. My house is brick with some wood trim, used it on the last two houses in fact. I think they also advertise being paintable. I buy the clear, but have used white before. Comes in brown too.

I have some DAP silicone, clear and paintable, not sure why we're seeing to completely different experiences with it's quality/ability though.

 

[Firebrick43]

So these gaps go all the way through, if the product stinks even when cured, it's going to get inside the garage and then in the house.

No, first use backer rod. That's the most important part. It will help seal as well.

Also it does stop stinking per say after a week or so but if you disturb it even years down the road it will smell like the day you installed.


Use another caulk on the inside. Then you definitely won't have smells. The interior caulk is not as critical as its not exposed to the weather and temperature extremes so you can use a cheaper caulk.

 

[MaDMaXX]

If it helps at all, this is north facing.

I don't think i can use backer rod, the gap on the outside is very slight, i'll struggle to get sealer in the gap.

Using caulk on the inside to block it off has more chance of working, but which side of the poly barrier to put it on?

 

[Marctrees]

This is getting WAYYY to OCD.

Just get some 100% silicone and caulk the outside and move on.

Marc

 

[nelstomlinson]

Marctrees probably gave you the best advice - get some caulk on the outside and move on to your next project.

If you really want to go further, take down the door, take out the frame, and reassemble everything with caulk where it belongs, in the joint between brick and wood, not on the surface.

 

[Marctrees]

OMG...

You just had to say that.

Only thing you were missing is Engineering consultation white paper from a Senior Partner.

Marc

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I have some DAP silicone, clear and paintable, not sure why we're seeing to completely different experiences with it's quality/ability though.

Um, what was your experience with it? I'm not sure I read yours. I said mine was good. Has yours been terrible?

 

[MaDMaXX]

Um, what was your experience with it? I'm not sure I read yours. I said mine was good. Has yours been terrible?

Dieselnut stated it was garbage, i'm about to head out and use some GE silicone 2 i found i still had.

 

[Marctrees]

Mad - Make sure it is not too old if it's been layin around..

You know if it is too old, it does not cure ?

So, open tube, squeeze out a few teaspoons on scrap, and check next day for curing.

Marc

 

[MaDMaXX]

Meh, bit late for that, turns out to have a use-by date of last June.... However, i've not had issues previously with this kind of thing, normally if it has issues i notice it's consistency is off, this seemed find once i'd cleared everything in the neck.

All went in well, some gaps larger than others and ate more silicone, but looks good, both garage door frames done, i'll check it out tomorrow.

Thanks all for the advice, seems really obvious *after* talking about it

 

[Marctrees]

If it is clearly getting a skin after just a couple hours, you will be OK.

Go see before you hit the sack...

If you have obvious skin, it will fully cure.

Marc

 

[MaDMaXX]

I checked it a while ago, dry to touch (30 min rain ready version) so i think it's all good.

 

[johnnyradiant]

100% silicone is great for a fish tank

 

[MaDMaXX]

It's great for a lot of things. I assume you're trying to make a point?

 

[Krang]

Worst case scenario, backer rod to fill the gap properly and then some high quality sealant like sikaflex which will allow for expansion / contraction.

It surely isn't the "right" way to fix it, however, in this case the "right" way was a loss at installation and now you get to just make it work, I think.

 

[Marctrees]

Mad..

You did good.




Marc

 

[MaDMaXX]

The gaps, whilst in reality were pretty small, were fairly constant and all round both doors, it was enough to see plenty of daylight through and surely draughts.

We're not going to get such massive movement with the weather here in the PNW that silicone won't cope with the changes, so i'm reasonably confident of this solution.