I have a defective 1989 battery charger. The amp gage stuck around 45 amps. I noticed the battery was bubbling, I shut it off. I pulled the top off and looked. I unhooked the wire from the gage to the transformer. The gage dropped back to close to normal. I was looking at the diode heat sink. Are any repaip parts available?
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Sears 200 amp 50 -2 battery charger.
- Thread starter rhandwor
- Start date
1950mercury
Well-known member
Call sears
I did some searches but didn't find what I want I asked my alternator rebuilder and he gave me a name. I called him and is 84 years old. He is recovering from surgery. He told me to call in one month. He works in his garage. He rebuilds the diode heat sink. He gets parts in California.
I plan on letting do the rebuild. I purchased a new equivalent on ebay for $120.00.
I just always liked my old charger. I purchased it in 1989. I plan on asking to watch.
I plan on letting do the rebuild. I purchased a new equivalent on ebay for $120.00.
I just always liked my old charger. I purchased it in 1989. I plan on asking to watch.
I did some checking when I was in the garage. I pulled the diode bank It has 2 star shaped covers over the diodes. I checked and every diode works. Some people use Ford truck alternator diodes. They are 25 amp button diodes. They are sold on ebay $13.80 for 10 it takes a dozen
I checked for A C power to the diode bank. It will vary according to the load. Probably 20 to 30 volts.
I didn't have any power on either leg.
Does any one have a used transformer that works they want to sell.
I checked for A C power to the diode bank. It will vary according to the load. Probably 20 to 30 volts.
I didn't have any power on either leg.
Does any one have a used transformer that works they want to sell.
I was looking closer for information on the web and found the transformer has a fuseable link. I think I located it on the side which feeds the wire to the ammeter. Has anyone soldered in a fuseable link. I think I could use two wire sizes smaller wire like a piece of number 12 solid wire.
When the charger is disconnected from the battery there should be no current flowing and and it should read 0. It is in the cable going to the battery.With the battery disconnected only one side of the meter is connected to anything I just replaced a sticky battery charger anmmeter. More than likely your meter is sticking. The pivot arrangement for the movement is often a crude affair. When you started messing with it,it probably dropped back to 0. High current meters often use an external shunt. That means that most of the current goes through a very low value resistor and a very small percentage of the current goes through the meter. Are there heavy wires on the meter or thin wires going to what looks like a piece of metal on a block that also has heavy wires to the same terminals?
Those star shaped covers are heat sinks to keep the diodes from overheating. If you have two diodes you are describing a full wave rectifier with a center tapped transformer. One diode is connected to an end of the secondary winding and the other side of the diodes are tied together. There is a center tap in the winding. That center tap and the junction of the two diodes are your DC output. Check the windings for continuity.If you are checking diodes I presume you have a meter. Check the primary and secondary windings for continuity i The center tap is often the two halves of the winding tied together external to the transformer. Make sure you have good connections. First you said that your battery was boiling over from over charging and then the charger was dead. Your symptoms are not consistent. Have you created a second problem?
The amp gage was on 60 amps. I had to unbolt the wire going to the meter est. 10 gage wire then it dropped. The connecter was corroded I had to cleane it with PB blaster to get any reading. A good size wire goes to the battery cable. The other battery cable has a 70 amp. klixon breaker bolted to the diode bank and the other battery cable. I hooked an ohm meter to the breaker and got a reading across it.
I thought I should get A-c voltage on the two large wires going to the diode bank est. 24 volts AC.
I'll hook it up to a battery and check battery voltage with the unit on. I also have an inductive ammeter I use once in a while to check starter voltage. I'll ohm across the ammeter and check for resistance tomorrow.
I thought I should get A-c voltage on the two large wires going to the diode bank est. 24 volts AC.
I'll hook it up to a battery and check battery voltage with the unit on. I also have an inductive ammeter I use once in a while to check starter voltage. I'll ohm across the ammeter and check for resistance tomorrow.
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If I need an amp gage will this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171460731501/www.ebay.com/
A new oem gage is around $40.00 and isn't even the exact unit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171460731501/www.ebay.com/
A new oem gage is around $40.00 and isn't even the exact unit.
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redmondjp
Well-known member
If I need an amp gage will this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171460731501/www.ebay.com/
A new oem gage is around $40.00 and isn't even the exact unit.
Yes, that will definitely work nicely, as it will give you both the charger/battery voltage and the current flowing. I can't believe it's only $12 - I may have to order a couple of those myself!
http://www.centurytool.net/51_236_250_Amp_Heatsink_Rectifier_p/51-236.htm
This is the rectifier I have it has 12 button diodes
The amp gauge has a copper strip with a hole drilled in it no signs of overheating. It has .8 ohms resistance.
The schematic shows both sets of diodes set the same way.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172392007279/www.ebay.com/
This is the rectifier I have it has 12 button diodes
The amp gauge has a copper strip with a hole drilled in it no signs of overheating. It has .8 ohms resistance.
The schematic shows both sets of diodes set the same way.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172392007279/www.ebay.com/
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I got the transformer working today. I am planning on checking all settings then installing a new amp gage.
I have the heat sink removed and planning on warming the transformer up drying and moisture from the windings.
I think everything will work when done.
Thanks for the help.
I have the heat sink removed and planning on warming the transformer up drying and moisture from the windings.
I think everything will work when done.
Thanks for the help.