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sears 3 ton floor jack diagram

Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Messages
2
Location
navarre florida
does anyone have a diagram of the internals of this jack? it is a 3 ton sears floor jack #875.501152.... sears doesn't and they referred me to florida neumatic and they did not either... i am looking for the check ball/spring breakdown to see if it is assembled correct i took both bearings out at the same time errr thanks
 

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89MustangGX

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Feb 24, 2008
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Stanwood, WA
I have what I believe is the exact same jack -- and it just started leaking oil. I'd be interested in anything you find specific to it as far as diagrams or parts lists.

Adam
 

roadrunner255

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Mar 17, 2011
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Driftwood, Texas

RECox286

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Apr 11, 2012
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South Joisey (yeah, that is part of the USA)
Bumping this post back to life ! I have been a busy worker bee trying to get my

Sears 3t floorjack back to life. When I took the working valve apart, sproing went the

parts (I guess I just wasn't ready for chaos) Any way I had no idea where the balls went, but

logic dictated that there must have been 2 of different sizes from the profile of the drilled

holes (different seat sizes and different hole sizes, one smaller below the larger).

Getting the O rings changed out presented no problem, once I had the corrrect parts,

but the unknown of the rebuild was to come up with the right size balls for the working

valve. After several tries with some spare bearing balls I had on-hand, I got lucky

and the jack lives. Yea for me. But then, I knew it was just a matter of time and

effort to come up with the correct combination.

Uncle Bob
 

usf67

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Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Messages
1
does anyone have a diagram of the internals of this jack? it is a 3 ton sears floor jack #875.501152.... sears doesn't and they referred me to florida neumatic and they did not either... i am looking for the check ball/spring breakdown to see if it is assembled correct i took both bearings out at the same time errr thanks

Were you able to find a diagram or breakdown? I have the same jack. Someone borrowed it and returned nonoperable. I'm needing a diagram as well. Tks.
 

DPDISXR4Ti

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Oct 4, 2010
Messages
164
Location
New York
I'm trying to decide what to do with my Sears 3 ton jack which has started leaking. It still works, but not very well. From the info on the sticker, it seems to have a part# of 950115 and a Model# 875 501152.

Doing some on-line research I think the "950115" part# may be the prefix for replacement parts, as the power unit I'm coming up with is part# of 950115-07. That part WAS available from Sears and Amazon semi-recently, but not any more it would appear.

Alternatively, it looks like I could buy this seal kit for $46 shipped, but I think I'd sooner just buy an entirely new jack before spending that much to repair this one.
https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/9961

I guess my only low-budget alternative is to tear it down myself and try to figure out the exact seal(s) which has failed. If it's just a basic O-ring, it should be easy enough to find a replacement. Hiball's 49-page thread (referenced above) would help with that.

Anyone have a line on the replacement power unit being available?
 

DPDISXR4Ti

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Oct 4, 2010
Messages
164
Location
New York
Doing some more digging, this may be the quick, cheap & easy solution...

Using this video as a guide, I did a partial tear-down of my jack yesterday. In the o-ring groove are a conventional rubber O-ring as well as a clear nylon spacer. The spacer is collapsible and goes above the O-ring.

In case the video goes away, the O-ring is a Buna Nitrile rubber #208, 90 hardness - 5/8" ID x 7/8" OD x 1/8" thickness.

I didn't have that O-ring in my collection so I've had to go ahead and order some. (If anyone wants a couple, send me a PM and I'll send cheap).

That rubber cap doesn't want to go back in place so I may have to come up with an alternate solution there. I would tap it for something threaded, but I don't want to risk getting any metal shavings inside.
 

DPDISXR4Ti

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Location
New York
Fixed! Replacing the single O-ring did the job. I've got several spare O-rings that are the correct size. If you need one send me a PM and I'll send a couple out for short money.

I wonder how many of these jacks have been tossed due to the failure of a single O-ring???
 
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jott

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Dec 4, 2014
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2
How did you get the rubber cap/plug back in? I've tried for several hours without any luck. I'm so afraid I'm going to put a hole in it or take a chunk out of it.
 

Hiball

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Apr 30, 2009
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Missery
How did you get the rubber cap/plug back in? I've tried for several hours without any luck. I'm so afraid I'm going to put a hole in it or take a chunk out of it.

Center it on the hole, grab a hammer and give it a whack.
 

DPDISXR4Ti

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Oct 4, 2010
Messages
164
Location
New York
How did you get the rubber cap/plug back in? I've tried for several hours without any luck. I'm so afraid I'm going to put a hole in it or take a chunk out of it.

Funny you should ask as just yesterday I was using the jack and reminded myself that I need to attend to that. For the last ~18 months I've had a chunk of 1/4"? vacuum hose stuffed in there with a sheetrock screw as the expander/sealer. It's worked fine (I think!) but looks pretty redneck.

I also felt like I'd probably kill the original one trying to put it back in place so I kept it out with the plan to use it to find a matching replacement. We see how well that plan has worked out so far. Feel free to find a suitable replacement ahead of me!

BTW, still have a bunch of the O-rings if anyone needs a couple.
 

ajchien

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Joined
Sep 3, 2010
Messages
2,649
Location
Los Angeles, stuck on the 60 freeway.
Funny you should ask as just yesterday I was using the jack and reminded myself that I need to attend to that. For the last ~18 months I've had a chunk of 1/4"? vacuum hose stuffed in there with a sheetrock screw as the expander/sealer. It's worked fine (I think!) but looks pretty redneck.

I also felt like I'd probably kill the original one trying to put it back in place so I kept it out with the plan to use it to find a matching replacement. We see how well that plan has worked out so far. Feel free to find a suitable replacement ahead of me!

BTW, still have a bunch of the O-rings if anyone needs a couple.


Are you guys talking about these things?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088PPKM49/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

DPDISXR4Ti

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Oct 4, 2010
Messages
164
Location
New York
Four years later and my jack is leaking again from the same spot - same as in this video....

I tried a new O-ring but couldn't manage to get it in there this time. I got the nylon O-ring that is also in there out - it's rather bent and trashed at this point - perhaps that was preventing me from getting the rubber one in there. Maybe I'll try again just putting the rubber O-ring alone in there.
 

DPDISXR4Ti

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Oct 4, 2010
Messages
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Location
New York
I got the jack working again tonight. I left the nylon O-ring out (it's junk) and just have the new rubber O-ring in there alone. Seems to work fine - no leaks!

If I find it does start leaking again soon, I might try to hunt down a 5/8" ID x 7/8" OD x 1/16" thickness O-ring to put in there in place of the original nylon one. So basically a 1/8" thickness O-ring AND a 1/16" thickness O-ring in the groove. But if it takes a few years before it leaks again, I'll just chalk it up as "once every few years maintenance" item.
 

paulsomlo

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Jul 16, 2013
Messages
3,897
Location
Northern Colorado
I got the jack working again tonight. I left the nylon O-ring out (it's junk) and just have the new rubber O-ring in there alone. Seems to work fine - no leaks!

If I find it does start leaking again soon, I might try to hunt down a 5/8" ID x 7/8" OD x 1/16" thickness O-ring to put in there in place of the original nylon one. So basically a 1/8" thickness O-ring AND a 1/16" thickness O-ring in the groove. But if it takes a few years before it leaks again, I'll just chalk it up as "once every few years maintenance" item.
What probably came out of there, was something like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/o...8/ultra-chemical-resistant-ptfe-backup-rings/

It's purpose is to keep the oring from extruding into the gap - it's split for easier installation and designated by the same number as the o ring it backs up.
 

DPDISXR4Ti

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Oct 4, 2010
Messages
164
Location
New York
What probably came out of there, was something like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/o...8/ultra-chemical-resistant-ptfe-backup-rings/

It's purpose is to keep the oring from extruding into the gap - it's split for easier installation and designated by the same number as the o ring it backs up.
Yep, that looks like it. Thanks for the link. I do think there's a good chance the new rubber O-ring won't last long without the backup O-ring. I'll paste the specs below just in case the link goes away. I wonder if there's anywhere local that might have these on a onesy-twosy basis - I certainly don't need 50! I'll check Ace Hardware next time I'm there.

208
click to learn more about 208
0.049"0.609"0.847"Durometer 55D (Hard)-300° to 500°White509560K123$24.55
 

paulsomlo

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Jul 16, 2013
Messages
3,897
Location
Northern Colorado
Yep, that looks like it. Thanks for the link. I do think there's a good chance the new rubber O-ring won't last long without the backup O-ring. I'll paste the specs below just in case the link goes away. I wonder if there's anywhere local that might have these on a onesy-twosy basis - I certainly don't need 50! I'll check Ace Hardware next time I'm there.

208
click to learn more about 208
0.049"0.609"0.847"Durometer 55D (Hard)-300° to 500°White509560K123$24.55
Hardware store doubtful - if you have a hydraulic parts supply nearby, that would be a better bet.

Or this place, $5 minimum order: https://www.theoringstore.com/store...t_info&cPath=367_14_552_555&products_id=13131
 

Ken Sungela

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Joined
Mar 13, 2015
Messages
2
Anybody have a drawing showing the correct location of the balls bearings? I bought a repair kit from HCRC which has 3 balls, each a different size, but don't know which goes where. I'm pretty sure the smallest one goes in the relieve valve.
 
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